3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

new skools pull so hard compared to third gens

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Old 07-07-2004, 05:09 PM
  #16  
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Hmm, 800 bux is not quite enough to get a decent heads/cam setup. About all you could get for that money is a set of upgraded Vortecs from Scoggin Dickey ($600ish) and a decent cam. Problem is you need a new intake with those Vortec heads which is another $400...

You could look into porting your stock heads, snag a cam and a new standard intake though that may still leave you with less power than him... Or you could look into a used set of better heads off ebay or what have you...
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:54 AM
  #17  
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I just sold my Accel cam for $150. 219 duration I/O with 0.525 valve lift I/O and 112 lobe sep.

Avoid the vortecs because you will have to buy the Scoggy Dickin intake manifold to mount the TPI intakes. This means that you cannot use any other intake manifold like the HSR or the Superram to mention a couple. The TPI intakes are pretty lame.
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:58 AM
  #18  
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There is the Ram Jet for Vortec heads....
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:30 PM
  #19  
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should i switch to lt1 injection

you think i would do better by just swithching to an lt1 injection system i heard it's worth 35 horsepower what else would i a have to buy to make this work and with that much gain i'm sure the race would go a little different. and i also heard it's worth the money in high rpm running.
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Old 07-08-2004, 05:27 PM
  #20  
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LT1 induction system, maybe. LT1 injection system with the ECM swap and harness swap, no thanx.
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Old 07-08-2004, 08:45 PM
  #21  
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al you would need is the modded intake feul rails and the whole swap can be done for around $600. w/ a new tune
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Old 07-09-2004, 09:29 AM
  #22  
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lt1 injection

so the fuel rail from the stock lt1 will not fit or there is just a better replacement. there is this guy by my house who has an lt1 manifold with throttle body and fuel rail for 350 obo should i pick up and can i find the conversion process some where on line thanks for all the help it is really needed.
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Old 07-09-2004, 10:11 AM
  #23  
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As far as your tranmission. Sounds like the TV cable and the governer needs to be adjusted. I would seriously take it to a good transmission shop to do that though because if you try to adjust the TV cable yourself, that messes with the line pressure in the transmission and too much or too little line pressure will kill your transmission, then you would have to get it rebuilt. I paid $1200 for a good rebuild on my 700r4. That is something to think about.

As far as performance, get you something in the 3.23-3.73 area and your car will get off of the line quicker on the street with a sacrifice of top speed and highway gas milage. 3.42's (10 bolt) or 3.45's (9 bolt) would be the best all around gear IMO.

As far as intake, you can either get an LT1 intake or get a Holley Stealthram. I'm going with a Stealtram on my L98 in the near future along with AFR 195 heads, LT1 injectors and probably a XE 282 (230/236) cam. I will need alot of tuning on the chip though but luckly I have a local 3rd gen buddy with an Lt1 intake that burns his own chips so he plans to help me with the prom tuning. My local buddy has burned over 50 chips and still doesn't have his car fine tuned.

Be prepared to invest alot of money if you plan on going fast.

With my motor setup I plan on going with, once it has decent tune, will smoke any stock/slightly modded LS1. I am guestimating low 12's with that setup.
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Old 07-09-2004, 11:19 AM
  #24  
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Originally posted by Ray86IROC
For a 1/5 of the amount of money he blew on his bloated, misproportioned cat-fish mobile you could dust him... Make some upgrades...
Why don't you tell us how you really feel! LOL!
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Old 07-09-2004, 11:35 PM
  #25  
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Dyosys there is an easy way to adjust the TV cable, one that usually puts you close enough that it works great, and the line pressure is usually correct.

Press the TV Cable button on the throttle bracket and then slide the black cable casing towards the firewall. Then with the engine off mash the gas pedal as far as you can, no need to go fast. Just firm pressure is all you need.

This alone should get your TV cable adjustment damn near where it supposed to be. I've adjusted several transmissions this way and the result is always positive unless the cable is so stretched it cannot be adjusted this way.
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