Hey guys. Well, I need to make up 1/2 second or so, all on motor. My traction is good, my gears I am not changing for now (I can still drive on the freeway like this). Here is the basic motor now:

358 SBC Roller Block, Crane Blazer flat tappet 224/234 duration, .496/.520 lift and 114 lsa. Heads are out of the box Edelbrock Performer RPM, Performer RPM intake and 750 carb. Headers are 1 5/8" primaries. Compression is a healty 10.3:1.

I have a Comp Cams Solid Roller ready to install, XE 280, 242/248 duration, .560/.575 lift (or so) and 110 lsa. I will be stepping up from flat tappet to roller and from hydraulic to solid, but I don't know if it'll be enough to make up that 1/2 second. What more can I do for a reasonable cost to get more power. Can those Performer RPMs be ported (by myself) some to make more power? What about crank scrapers or something like that, 5 hp here and there. I am thinking of getting a pick-your-part hood and cutting a hole it in so I can run a decent air filter and get some cold air in there for when I go to the track. Also might try a carb spacer then, might help a bit with heat too!

Tranny is th350 with 10" converter, gears are 3.27, running 28" tall street tires (too tall, but all I had, hooked well though).

Help guys, I need to go this fast to beat a friend :-). Thanks.

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1981 Olds Delta 88 455/th400/3.23 posi

1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; soon Comp RXE294H; th350 & 10" converter.

1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; soon to port&polish MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Hypertech PowerTuner III

 

At the track u can remove the front Sway bar, But allumim rims. Or install a cutout for the exhaust. Remove accessories such as the Compressor,powersteering.

 

Well, the sway bar was off. I was running a set of 28" tall tires, they were 275/60/15s on a 15x8" rims and I have a set of airbags in the rear stock '94 Coils. I was running 2.0" 60-foots with it flashing the converter then launching. The traction was not bad, my friend was running slightly slower 60's, maybe 2.1ish range. But he is running an expensive 454 with big valves, etc. He was going 13.7s at 100 mph while I went 14.049 at 98 mph at 5800 feet corrected and crappy track conditions, but still, our conditions were the same. I went 13.89 at 104.5 mph when I had the T5 (or should I say 5 T5s ago), but that is not the case no more. I need to go 13.5s with 104 MPH again so I can be close. I also have a driveshaft safety loop and some Cascar slick, might try to use them, but would like to stay street tire for now just to be even.

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1981 Olds Delta 88 455/th400/3.23 posi

1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; soon Comp RXE294H; th350 & 10" converter.

1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; soon to port&polish MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Hypertech PowerTuner III

 

Another thing I forgot to mention is, I am running a stock TBI pulley system with an A/C that works. I have a 305 I pulled from a '87 Buick Regal with complete accesories and pulleys, so I think I am going to run those but remove my A/C and store it. I can try to run only the alternator belt with the waterpump at the track, see what that does. I don't know if that will net much though, but I guess every bit helps.

 

You should be able to port those heads some. I'd get them CNC'd if I were you. Would probably cost a decent amount but you would see the gains you are looking for and maybe then some... The cam should give you a nicer torque curve which should help too. Sounds like your 60' times are a little on the high side though. You might want to look into some good suspension mods as well... LCA relocation brackets, new LCAs/panhard bar, Torque arm... all these things will help improve your traction quite a bit.

[This message has been edited by Yellowknifer (edited July 06, 2002).]

[This message has been edited by Yellowknifer (edited July 06, 2002).]

 

Well, I had Lakewood LCA on my '88, but they are now on my '94. The '88 has stock '94 arms, but I am going to box them in and get urithane bushings. I got a adjustable PHR for the '94, but I guess I could let the '88 borrow it for now, but what exactly does it do for traction? I got it 'cause the car is lowered (so is the '88, but not anymore in the rear). The thing is, I got slicks and a DS safety loop to install so I should drop to below 2.0 with that and control arm boxing in. I am not getting a TRQ. ARM for the '88, want to get one for the '94. I kinda want to do it on a budget, this cam I already have so might as well use it.

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1981 Olds Delta 88 455/th400/3.23 posi

1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; soon Comp RXE294H; th350 & 10" converter.

1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; soon to port&polish MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Hypertech PowerTuner III

 

Have the heads/intake port matched with a decient valve job. The heads are where the power is. It should cost you 2-300 bucks and will be well worth it.

 

I would suggest porting and polishing along w/ a 3(or 4) angle valve job to get some better flow numbers.... and more HP obviously

I'd also say go w/ the suspension upgrades, those 60s aren't as good as well as they could be. So another vote for the LCAs, TA, and stuff.... I know its not exactly what you want to hear but I think thats what will get you even better traction and let you load up the TC all the way for a killer launch.

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Jay
black 85 Z28 - waiting on a new paint job, then she'll be real purty
87 Chevy S10 Blazer- 2.8 liters of pure fury

Jay's Website
yahoo im: wildcat856
AIM: Jayman85Z
Homer no function beer well without
check out GMPerformance.org

 

Come and see me at the track this weekend. I doubt I'll be there on Friday night. I'll have a look at your setup.

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Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car

87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.589
Best MPH on a time slip: 115.91
Best corrected ET: 11.114

Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 457
Best 60 foot: 1.646
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

 

I don't know if I am going to make it this friday, but will the next one for sure.

 

I think that cam w/some porting of the heads will give you the improvement you are looking for all in itself. as long as the stall is up to the same operating range. what stall is it? mine is a 3500 10" and act. stalls (foot brake) to 2500. it works well. I went to the track fri. and went 13.34 w/1.87 60' but my car is more optimized for track than yours sounds. (manual strg, !sway bar, ! a/c, drag radials)

If you need a little more after the cam, then get some nitto drag radials. they are flat out awesome. I have 275/50/15's and they fit perfect.

that cam will like high rpms so a crank scrapper will help. plus they are so cheap might as well throw one in(they are a pain in the *** to fit though)

good luck to ya.
chris


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1985 Iroc Z, (parting out, email for parts)

1986 Iroc Z
355, ported camel hump heads,750 holley, 700r4, 10.5 compr., forged flat tops, solidcam .501I .510E, 4gen rear w/3:73 posi, girdle, and disc's, Edel. torker II, shift kit, 3500 stal, hedmann LT. headers, 4 gen seats, man. strg., lt1 starter, alum. w/p, msd 6al, coil, dist., mallory wires. mid 13's for now. lots to play w/still

1995 z28,SS Hood, Iroc style spoiler, tints and black outs, 700r4,2400 act. stall speed,B&M hammer shifter, 17" budnick trilogy III wheels, 275/40 ZR17, 160 stat, man. cooling fan sw., homemaid CAI,1LE elbow, hypertech airfoil, t.b.bypass,!cat, flowmaster, !maf screen, relocated batt., 1LE front l.c.a.s', poly trans and torq.arm bushings, MSD 6AL, custom program, p&p maf, accel coil, and under drive pulley

mods that i have, just not on car yet:
msd wires, edelbrock mid. headers, edelbrock rpm catback

 

it sounds like your motor combo is solid. i doubt any messing with it other than trying to tune every last pony out of it is a good idea.
your gear ratio and tire combo is hurting you a lot though. a 28inch tire with a 3.27 gear is like a 3.08 gear with astock sized tire. look into a lot more gear if you wanna run that tire, 3.73 will barely be enough, look at 4.10's or 4.56's if you wanna get that job done right.
i am sure a set of 4.10's will get you a lot more than 1/2 a sec, it will also allow you a better basis for tuning since you will be using the cars whole power band properly.

later
tim

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NJ SPEEDER
91 Camaro RS
305TBI/700R4
12's Coming Soon
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July 20,2002
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My MAFB.ORG Home Page
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299

 

Do the cam and tune the carb & distributor. I haven't found an out-of-the-box carb yet that didn't have AT LEAST 2 tenths left in it. Some considerably more. Not to mention getting the ignition timing/timing curve dialed in just right. That by itself can be worth a 1/2 second, although most engines I work on there's usually more like a tenth or so left, assuming it was pretty close to begin with. That leaves you only 2 tenths needed from the cam. Child's play.

You're already home. Just gotta spend some time dialing it in.