Whats up to all you F-body Players,
Okay I just got out of highschool , got myself a job and all my money is going into my car... Now for my question. What are the first cheapest mods i can do, i alreayd have the k%N the flowmaster. So whats next ??? Thanks !

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1991 Red Camaro RS
MODS:rebuilt 350, K & N. 10'MTX.

 

You can always get some roller rockers / gears / cam / pulley's / heads / of course suspention.

The list goes on and on. It all really depends on how much you want to spend and what kind of power/handling you want.

 

Thanks for the help . Whats the very first thing i should do , to get the biggest gain?

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1991 Red Camaro RS
MODS:rebuilt 350, K & N. 10'MTX.

 

I would get your stock heads ported and polished to flow as much as you can. Get a bigger cam cause the stock one is better used as a paper weight. Then I would get a 52mm Throttle body and a set of 1.6 Roller Rockers.

That should be under or around 2 g's and it will definatley wake up the car. Oh, you might want to get a MSD ignition too if you plan on getting some high revs out this thing.

If you want a better power gain for the top end, I would slap in a rev kit when you get the heads done. I believe AFR dynoed an additional 100 HP's on the top end.

 

The real question here is how much can you spend and where do you want to go with this car? Do you wanna go all out and be spanking rustangs or just wake your car up alittle?
You don't wanna start buying parts and then a year from now buying something better cause you didn't know what you wanted. Go slow and make a goal. Like if you want to go all out.. Start with some sub-frame connectors, Then get a new intake, MFI intake with plenum adapter, miniram, (don't go superam(seen them blow gaskets too many times at the track)) Just something else, Get a new cam(call some cam makers and talk to them about what you are doing and they will help you get the best cam) Get a stall convertor something that comes alive when your cam does, Find a v8 4th gen with a manual trans and take his rear end, all that should put you somewhere in the low 13's maybe, get new heads, get new torque arm, lower control arms, relocation brackets, lower springs, adjustable panhand bar, get the best now, so you don't have to buy it again. Go to www.spohn.net for alot of stuff, the rest you can probably get off of here.

later

Kevin


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86 Chevrolet Camaro Iroc Z-28 Fully Loaded With T-Tops
Mods;
Spohn SubFrame Connectors, S&W Race Car Chassis 8 point Roll Cage, 1997 SS Aniversary 3.42 POSI Rear End with 12" Rotors and 4 Piston PBR Calipers, Balanced Drive shaft... Others soon to come...

Best times before any mods done, Complety Stock;15.6 @ 87mph
Waiting for the tracks to open again to see what I got going on Now!

ntimad8.cz28.com

 

EDIT: Sorry, didn't notice that you had a 350 already. If it's still got the tbi on it, pitch it in favor of a carb or TPI. Modding tbi is like trying to wax a turd.

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The IROC Homepage
View the Restoration of an 85 IROC
Weekend projects aren't.

[This message has been edited by Jim85IROC (edited July 18, 2002).]

 

#1 - Porting stock TBI heads is a waste of time and money.

#2 - AFR's Hydra - Rev kit does not add an additional 100 HP. Peak power vs/ peak power on a modded 355 wasn't a HUGE difference. It just extended the RPM range where it was able to make power.

#3 - It's all about matched parts, no one bolt on part will give you big gains. You would have to bolt on a blower or a turbo to get that, or run the bottle to see a big difference.

The best advice I can give is this: figure out how much money you can justify spending on your car. Figure out how fast you want the car to be, what kind of street manners you need it to have, etc. Then go from there. I see too many people, including myself, that had a fast - streetable car and went overboard with it. Choose your parts/mods wisely and don't get too carried away. Good luck with your Camaro.





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1986 IROC-Z, 8pt. cage, 383, Mini Ram, DFI, Art Carr 700R4, 12 bolt.....

 

Sorry man I didn't notice that the car was an RS (having the TBI) When I say it was a 91 I automatically assumed it was a TPI.

86 IROC: chil out man, I was just throwing some ideas at him. He didn't say how much he wanted to spend or what kind of power he wanted. He simple asked for what kind of mods would be good.

I see you have quit the modded car. Almost sounds like what I'm building right now. Regardles of how fast or great the car is, that still doesn't give you the right to come onto the board like you own the thing.

[This message has been edited by irocz305 (edited July 18, 2002).]

 

BTW... Heres the graphs from AFR tested on a 350 with their 195 heads.

 

I have an AFR Catalog with the graphs, it came with my heads. I didn't jump down your throat - so maybe you need to chill out.

Everyone is entitled to their $0.02 even if it's not "politically correct" with some people.

No flames intended here - just sharing my experiences and ideas.

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1986 IROC-Z, 8pt. cage, 383, Mini Ram, DFI, Art Carr 700R4, 12 bolt.....

 

I'd buy an Edelbrock TPI base and siamese port it yourself. Order some SLP or AS&M runners (pretty big price difference...). Make sure they are semi siamesed. Grab a stock Plenum and port the heck out of it. I suggest you polish it all too, outside and inside (but if you don't want to take the time I understand). Since you will need a new harnass I suggest looking for a late TPI speed density model with all the sensors you need. You can buy one from painless wiring but I have heard from some that they are really really annoying to install. That should cover your intake nicely. Some nice 1 3/4" headers to go with a nice catback system will take care of your exhaust. When you do the intake you may as well do the heads too . AFR190's I would suggest with a decent sized cam. Since you did all that you will need to make sure your tranny is up to snuff. Not sure if you have a 700r4 or a T5. If you have a 700r4 get a shift kit and a good tranny cooler if it's in good shape. Do a general freshening up of the tranny as well... if you don't know how get a tranny shop to rebuild it for ya. New shocks and springs. New Torque Arm, LCA, Panhard bars, poly bushings, LCA relocation brackets, Subframe connectors, Strut Tower Brace. Since you have a 10-bolt rearend you're going to need to upgrade to either a 9-bolt borg warner (they came on 86-89 IROC's and GTA's, didn't come on all of them so make sure you look carefully) or a ford 9" or 12-bolt. The 9-bolt should be cheapest since it is a realitively unknown quantity and you might be able to find one at the junkyard. Do whatever has to be done to it (if any parts need replacing). You can find a link to a site with new parts for sale at 9bolt.com. The 9-bolt is very strong and would hold up to a nicely built 350 without any problems. New tires probably will give you the most noticeable improvement in performance if you have any traction problems at the moment. Nitto's are very good and cheap (about 100 per tire). HEHE, just my thoughts

 

The Hydra rev kit is all releative, if you have sufficent spring pressure already you wont see much of an improvement but if youre using some springs that are on the edge of your set-up you will see a big improvement. I have the AFR 190s ported on my 93 T/A (my 86 hasnt benefited from some goodies yet) And I used the springs that came with the heads. I experienced valve float around 6500 rpm with a cc305 cam and 1.6 rockers. I added the Rev kit , the float went away. Later I added some killer spring (140 # closed 525 # open) and with out the rev kit the engine was fine but when I added the rev kit again I gained 300 rpm on the top. No noticeable power down lower from 4500 to 6500 but up top it reved freer.
Perry

 

first off, if you have the tbi, keep it. it is a very efficiant system to live with oin teh street adn it carn easily be modded to make serious power.
the best seat of the pants mod out there is prolly a posi and gears. a stock or mild engien can really benefit from a set of 3.73 cogs. any change in mileage is minimal and you will love how well you will be able to launch with a little simple suspension work too.
tbi is a great system and it is always easiest to work with the induction that is already oin the car. with tbi, just like with tpi, one of the biggest areas people make mistakes is by not keeping their computer tuned to their mods. if you go to www.thirdgen.org you can see a ton of info on how to get started burning your own chips on teh diy prom board and gain lots of info about tbi on the tbi board.

later
tim

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NJ SPEEDER
91 Camaro RS
305TBI/700R4
12's Coming Soon
2nd Annual East Coast F-Body Nationals
July 20,2002
www.geocities.com/njspeeder
My MAFB.ORG Home Page
http://www.mycar.net/mafb/registry/detail.cfm?id=299

 

Oh sure, if you consider 200 HP at the wheels to be serious power. But you're right, TBI is cheap and works for a daily driver.


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1991 Camaro Z28
350 L98 w/ T56 (originally 305 LB9 w/ T5)
318 RWHP, 419 RWTQ
12.803 @ 108.50 MPH (1.932 60')
Member: SoCal F-Bodies
ThirdGen 4-Life!

 

I had a 305 TBI to start with on my '88, its a carbed 350 now.

I would do:

- Gears
- Nice headers and complete exhaust
(both of these things you can use later for whatever you do).
- Urithane tranny mount

Then, I would do:

- Subframe connectors, lowering springs, Bilstein shocks/struts, PHR and LCA and LCA RB.

THEN, depending on what you want out of a car and how much money you got, look into changing cams/heads/converting to carb, etc. E-mail me if you got any questions.



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1981 Olds Delta 88 455/th400/3.23 posi

1988 Trans Am WS6, 355/T5/3.27 posi; RPM heads and Intake; Crane Fireball cam; Holley 750 carb; soon Comp RXE294H; th350 & 10" converter.

1994 Trans Am LT1/T56, no cat; Hooker CB; Hotch. SFC and STB; Ripper shifter; Poly mount; Lakewood LCA; K&N FIPK; Hypertech Airfoil; soon to port&polish MAF; Sprint springs & Bilstein shocks; GM Motive 4.10; Hypertech PowerTuner III