I have had my new 355 running for about 600-700 miles. I have been burning my own proms to get my fuel maps so im not running rich down low and lean up high. I think that my car should be running better than it is. from who I have raced I think Im about a high 13 second car. stats on my motor include.. factory turned crank, Cat 6" 4340 rods, .030 over JE ultralight flattops, ported iron L98's with 2.02, 1.60 valves, LT1 intake CC305 cam (220/230 @ .50 .544/.544 lift 114 LSA 1.6 Roller rockers, 10.5:1 compression... The trans is a built one with shiftkit and corvette servo, with a 2200 stall converter, out back I have 3.73 w/ posi.

Also I have speed pro Sealed power plasma moly rings. I have been consuming oil, no oil leaks, so it must be burning it. I was wondering If my rings could still possibly not have seated, I tried the transmission fluid in the intake trick to help seal the rings but I didnt really notice an improvement. I was wondering what kind of power could be gained when the rings seal, and how can I tell If the rings have set yet.

Im sure Im going to have to get some timing added or taken away from some areas in the spark table. but I havent learned that much yet. I was Hoping I would run pretty strong even without tuning, I hear of people running 12's with no computer tuneing on setups close to mine

Sorry for the long post, but I also have another question, I am pulling codes 15 and 24, Im going to replace the coolant temp sensor, I was wondering if that would cause the car to run that bad, also My speedometer works, and also registers the speed on WinAldl but I am still getting a code 24, what could this be?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Chris

 

if you have no leaks that could be it, I know most people say you will see smoke if you are burning oil, but I didn't have any smoke and I was consuming oil at like 1 qt a week, turns out I overheated once and one of the rings became unseated and didn't go back, causing oil to leak into the combustion champer, check you plugs one of them will almost definately be covered in oil if not fouled if this is the case.

 

did you do the engine up yourself or have somebody build it for you?

 

I built the motor myself, I installed the rings correctly with the ring end gap offset from eachother 180 degrees. I also cleaned the cylinderwalls of the honing grit with david visards method, engine degresser, and a scothbrite pad and wipe clean until i can wipe it and get no gray honing grit on a white rag.

 

Pull the plugs and see what they look like. Put new ones in and run them for a couple of hundred more miles and check again. If it is burning oil you should see it on them.

My most recent motor didn't consume much oil at all during break in. And after 500 miles I would think yours shouldn't be either. But who knows.

I helped a friend rebuild a 390 Ford and a few of the cylinders never sealed. We did everything the exact same on each one. I think the reason we had problems was he sent the block out and had it machined and brought it home and just put it together. I think having the shop that does the machine work actually check the bores with the pistons that are going in could have prevented that. I prefer to just either get a short block or at least have the machine shop build the bottom end.

 

I had blue smoke coming out of my tail pipes for the first 1000 miles on my new motor. I used moly rings. After around 1000 miles the blue smoke went away and it's been fine since. I'd give it a little bit more time.

 

Too late now but you should have hooked up a starter to run a compression test and a leakdown test when the engine was out to tell. Now you have to do it the hard way;.

 

I wouldn't do anything until you get a few hundred more miles on it.