i wanna change my motor mounts to the energy suspension polyeurethane bushing
its a clamshell style small block chevy mount from an 87 iroc
the energey suspension bushing does no come with the braket, so ineed to re-use the old bracket

the old bracket looks like its riveted together
i drilled out one rivet and it doesnt seem to seperate
whats the best way to seperate the bracket to get the ruber bushing out and the poly bushing in?

also, i changed my k-member, the old one used 3 of the 4 holes on each motor mount, the new k-member has a provision for all 4 holes
now since the factor only used 3 bolts and 3 holes, the 4th i not necessary,, but i would like to put one there anyway, should i just grab any nut and bolt that will fit from the parts store or is it really worth it to grab a grade 8 bolt and nut since it is a stiffer k-member, poly bushings, along with other suspension mods

 

its not really a rivet, there is a hole that is like fused together, you just drill it out and itll come apart no problem. Maybe your drill bit isnt big enough.

 

mine just popped apart...painted it up, put a prothane mount in there, and i'm about to put it back on...got a question for you guys tho....you know how the bolt head is the part that is exposed, then they have the nut inside the kmember, can you switch that around and put the nut being exposed? because it was a B**CH to get them off, i can't even imagine putting them back on...do you guys think it would make a difference...???

 

get an extra set of helping hands with a combination wrench underneath the k-member, that probably is the easiest way because a socket wont fit for 2 of the 3 bolts
i dont think putting the nut underneath and the bolt on top would make it easier in anyway

i havent been using a drill bit on my motor mounts i was using a rotory tool to grind down the metal, i'll go get a drill bit and start drilling when i get the chance

 

I used a drill bit as well and they came apart quickly. I'd be safe and go with a grade 8 bolt/but for the K member if you decide to use 4 bolts on the one side....

 

Hi...if you know anyone else that wants aset of the Energy Suspension mounts i have a set that i will sell...still new and for cheaper than what Summit sells theirs.....thx....

 

i havent bought mine yet, pm me with a price

 

Summit sells them for $29.69. I would like $26.00 a piece and you pay for the shipping which should be around $8 or $9. I just need a zip code. If you need more info email me at maseag520@yahoo.com....

 

how would it not? because you can reach into the k member slide the bolt up in there, then the nut is accessible from the top instead of tryin to slip a ratchet inside that kmember to tighten up the nut....i was thinking, what if i put the bolt head on the inside of the kmember, then just put a box end wrench on the bolt head, then i could just use a ratchet on the nut on the top...i'm just wondering if it would make a difference, interfer with anything becaue the threads would probably stick up a little bit...what do you guys think?

 

which ever way u put the nut and bolt u still have to hold one in place from underneath, so u still need to use a combination wrench inside the k-member, so i feel it doesnt matter either way, the only possible issue is the bolt threads comming too close to the block, which is, in reality, not a big deal

 

well whats easier, holding onto the bolt head from underneath, or trying to thread a nut from underneath. If i ever have to do that evil procedure again the bolt will be sticking up through that hole with the nut going on the top

 

man, that was something I don't wanna ever do again!

Will

 

when i bought my car the motor mounts you could tell were factory they were squished. I got new mounts, changed one of them, said **** this, took it to a shop to have the other one done, what a PITA.

 

Yeah I did the driver side by myself, but had my pops help me with the pass side. What a nightmare. But what a difference it made.You couldn't see it before, but the pass side mount was ripped in half. The motor always had this shudder and it would rock around a little in the engine bay. Since these were installed, its smooth as anything. But you do feel a little more vibration.

Will

 

There not really that bad. I can change a set in about a 1/2 hour.
Take your nut and tape it into a box/open end wrench and start the bolt from the top like factory. Once you get the bolt started thru the nut,tighten the bolt while holding the nut from moveing.