3rd Gen / L98 Engine Tech 1982 - 1992 Engine Related

How much did it cost to build your motor?

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Old Nov 25, 2003 | 08:10 PM
  #16  
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Originally posted by baddest305
$12.500 for the motor-- carb to oil pan --434sb
See...This guy never dicks around! Awesome, I can't wait to see pics/timeslips from that new setup. I'm guessing easy 10's on motor and God only know what on the bad stuff.
Old Nov 26, 2003 | 02:54 AM
  #17  
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If he can get the rearend to plant. All the power in the world won't help you don't get traction until the 1000 ft mark.
Old Nov 26, 2003 | 12:28 PM
  #18  
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Originally posted by 97WS6SCharged
If he can get the rearend to plant. All the power in the world won't help you don't get traction until the 1000 ft mark.
Always the optimist, Chris!!! I'm guessing you didn't see how his 305 hooked.
Old Nov 26, 2003 | 01:05 PM
  #19  
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My 383 blower motor (about 480HP at the crank, well over 500 ft/lbs torque) if I had to build it from scratch again....

383 Short block... around $1400 using an old 350 junkyard block. KB Hypereutectic pistons, stock rods with ARP rod bolts, 383 stroker crank, 400 balancer and flexplate. Block clearancing done by me before it went to the machine work for boring/honing, etc. Final assembly by me.

Cam and valvetrain.... Comp Cams XE 268 ground on a wider blower-friendly 114* LSA. Fresh cheap-o Mellings lifters, pushrods, 1.6 roller-tipped rockers. Maybe $250 for the whole mess.

Heads.... AFR 190s $1300 (plus 4 week wait)

Intake.... Weiand 142 blower kit $1500. Home-tweaked QJet junkyard carb, maybe $50 in parts

Ignition.... Home tweaked junkyard HEI distributor, maybe $75 invested total. MSD ignition another $125 (although i got it as a Christmas present)

Odds-n-ends..... $250 for gaskets, odd parts, etc.

TOTAL: Just shy of $5000 complete from carb to pan, balancer to flexplate, ready to drop in.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 02:24 AM
  #20  
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Dude, there is no way I would build a blower motor with hypercrap pistons. The only reason my supercharged LT1 has hypercrap pistons in it is because they are the stock pistons and they just haven't given up yet. My 383 for the twin turbo setup is forged everything. By the way, the LT1 put 441 HP and 462 ft/lb to the tires. Life is good, until something breaks.
Old Nov 28, 2003 | 12:25 PM
  #21  
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Agreed, I would never RECOMMEND using hypereutectic pistons in a blower or nitrous application. I used them on a dare. I was told by many people (like you) they would never hold up. Having used them MANY times in mild nitroused street motors without a failure (most recently a 400ci small block making round about 500 at the crank) I felt confident I could make them live a long life under the blower.

I figured if I set them up with proper ring end gap and stayed well clear of detonation they'd work just fine. A year in so far and no problems.

ANY piston will fail under detonation- forged pistons just take a little longer to break. The main reason that hypereutectic pistons have a bad reputation with boost/nitous is that most people do not follow manufacturer's specs for ring end gap. Hypereutectic pistons put a LOT of heat in the top ring. This can easily cause the ring ends to butt together, instantly destroying the piston. People blame it on detonation when really it was improper assembly that killed them.

Hypereutectics, therefore, often require MUCH larger end gap than you would see on a stock piston or an aftermarket forged piston. My KB hypereutectics are set up with .032" of top ring gap, per manufacturer's recommendations. On any other kind of piston that would be WAY WAY too big, but not with these.
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