How hot is to hot
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 31
How hot is to hot
i have a 88 camaro with a 350 it has the duel fans stock radiator aluminum water pump and a set of under drive pulley with a 180 t-stat the temp stays between 210 and 220 sometimes it will go to 230. around town it stays around 205 to 210 but if i get on the interstate it goes up to 220 some times it hits 230 so is this ok or is it to hot.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 381
From: Byhalia Ms, just south of Memphis
when do your fans come on? if you have the stock switch then your car is running where GM set it at stock. if you want it to run cooler then put in a cooler fan switch. hypertech has one that is on #200 off@185 and another that is on @176 off @166.
my car STAYS at the 170-175 temp area year round and i have the 176-166 switch.
also, is your air dam on the car? thats a big deal.
my car STAYS at the 170-175 temp area year round and i have the 176-166 switch.
also, is your air dam on the car? thats a big deal.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 381
From: Byhalia Ms, just south of Memphis
what about your air dam, that thing that hangs down under the nose? if ya dont have one you NEED one.
are their any obstructions blocking airflow? yank your condenser and see how much visibility you have . a good back washing the rad couldnt hurt. if your cooling fins are blocked by grime this will cause high temps.
are their any obstructions blocking airflow? yank your condenser and see how much visibility you have . a good back washing the rad couldnt hurt. if your cooling fins are blocked by grime this will cause high temps.
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 344
From: Fort Atkinson, WI
Your car is running way to hot. All of my cars are stock and the first 3 listed below run about 180 to 200 degrees running at highway speeds. Like what was said before check behind the condensor and make sure the radiator fins are clear. I had a problem with my 91 camaro a few years back and I broke down and bought a new radiator from advance auto parts for $100 and have not had a problem since.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 151
From: Austin, TX
230 is still considered "within limits" on our engines. They like to run hot.
The Fan1 On temperature setting in the ECM is above 230 degrees from factory. Same for the overheat switch for Fan2, it is supposed to close at 238 degrees.
As for running warm even with both fans on, something isn't right. Does the temperature stay above 200 even if you let it idle in the driveway with both fans on? (no A/C, of course) That would be too warm for a 180 thermostat (if you trust it).
First thing I usually do on cars with cooling problems is check the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and I also backflush the hell out of the engine and radiator. You have no idea what gunk previous owners put in the coolant to seal leaks etc.
A backflush, in my case, has solved majority of cooling issues with many cars in the past. It is grossly underappreciated.
Other than that, if the radiator is clean and has no bent fins (including the A/C condenser), the fault could be in the water pump and/or the underdrive pulleys.
The common causes of cooling system problems are: gunk, obstruction, waterpump, t-stat, statistically in this order.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
P.S.: Do you trust your dash gauge or are you using an infrared thermometer at the water neck to get the temperature readings?
The Fan1 On temperature setting in the ECM is above 230 degrees from factory. Same for the overheat switch for Fan2, it is supposed to close at 238 degrees.
As for running warm even with both fans on, something isn't right. Does the temperature stay above 200 even if you let it idle in the driveway with both fans on? (no A/C, of course) That would be too warm for a 180 thermostat (if you trust it).
First thing I usually do on cars with cooling problems is check the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and I also backflush the hell out of the engine and radiator. You have no idea what gunk previous owners put in the coolant to seal leaks etc.
A backflush, in my case, has solved majority of cooling issues with many cars in the past. It is grossly underappreciated.
Other than that, if the radiator is clean and has no bent fins (including the A/C condenser), the fault could be in the water pump and/or the underdrive pulleys.
The common causes of cooling system problems are: gunk, obstruction, waterpump, t-stat, statistically in this order.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
P.S.: Do you trust your dash gauge or are you using an infrared thermometer at the water neck to get the temperature readings?
Registered User
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 344
From: Fort Atkinson, WI
230 is still considered "within limits" on our engines. They like to run hot.
The Fan1 On temperature setting in the ECM is above 230 degrees from factory. Same for the overheat switch for Fan2, it is supposed to close at 238 degrees.
As for running warm even with both fans on, something isn't right. Does the temperature stay above 200 even if you let it idle in the driveway with both fans on? (no A/C, of course) That would be too warm for a 180 thermostat (if you trust it).
First thing I usually do on cars with cooling problems is check the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and I also backflush the hell out of the engine and radiator. You have no idea what gunk previous owners put in the coolant to seal leaks etc.
A backflush, in my case, has solved majority of cooling issues with many cars in the past. It is grossly underappreciated.
Other than that, if the radiator is clean and has no bent fins (including the A/C condenser), the fault could be in the water pump and/or the underdrive pulleys.
The common causes of cooling system problems are: gunk, obstruction, waterpump, t-stat, statistically in this order.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
P.S.: Do you trust your dash gauge or are you using an infrared thermometer at the water neck to get the temperature readings?
The Fan1 On temperature setting in the ECM is above 230 degrees from factory. Same for the overheat switch for Fan2, it is supposed to close at 238 degrees.
As for running warm even with both fans on, something isn't right. Does the temperature stay above 200 even if you let it idle in the driveway with both fans on? (no A/C, of course) That would be too warm for a 180 thermostat (if you trust it).
First thing I usually do on cars with cooling problems is check the thermostat in a pot of boiling water and I also backflush the hell out of the engine and radiator. You have no idea what gunk previous owners put in the coolant to seal leaks etc.
A backflush, in my case, has solved majority of cooling issues with many cars in the past. It is grossly underappreciated.
Other than that, if the radiator is clean and has no bent fins (including the A/C condenser), the fault could be in the water pump and/or the underdrive pulleys.
The common causes of cooling system problems are: gunk, obstruction, waterpump, t-stat, statistically in this order.
Let us know what you find.
Lou
P.S.: Do you trust your dash gauge or are you using an infrared thermometer at the water neck to get the temperature readings?
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