Ok, as you guys know I had to R/R my flexplate...anyways, I had so many leaks coming from the motor that I went ahead and pulled the motor too so I can fix all the leaks...its easier with the motor out.....I have leaks everywhere maninly the oil pan gasket......I have read that I cant reuse the felpro rubber gasket..true?
THis is on my new stroker motor pushing 10.6:1 and only has about 300miles on it.

Here's some pictures showing all the leaks...front seal and under the timing cover, back of pan in the curve, down along the length of the pan....intake end seals...
Help!..I only want to do this once as the motor is out....One thing I hate is a leaking motor.

SHould I put RTV and use the rubber gasket?...like put RTV where I see the leaks......the front seal has already been replaced once but it keeps on leaking.

thanks!

 

I don't like to use RTV stuff. I use GM assembly adhesive on everything part #12346141.

 

I've re-used those pan gaskets and others like them multiple times with no problems. They usually require a very minimal amount of silicone to seal tightly. Also, was the oil pan rail checked for straight and true before installation?

Obviously, the leak at the back of the manifold isn't related to the pan gasket and it appears that you have a good bead of silicone under the end rail of the manifold.

I'm wondering if the fresh rings haven't yet sealed thereby allowing excessive crankcase pressure to force oil out. Do you use open breathers on the valve covers?

 

no I dont usue breathers...I have MAF so I cant...I do use the PVC system that came with the old motor.

 

never heard of that adhesive gonna have to try it but if it is not available i use 3m yellow weather strip adhesive on one side and super black rtv on other(heavier and stronger that regular black)---------------------------------- as long as you have the pcv you should be able to put breathers in both valve covers to reduce pressure in crackcase the pcv works on vacuum so anything it doesn't take will come out breathers

 

Any GM dealer will have it.

 

I went to AZ and bought some stuff called RIGHT STUFF by Permatex....this seems to be the RTV of choice.....

and as far as the oil pan gasket...Im thinking the damn thing is way to thick not letting my oil pan seat all the way on the block? it is a think piece!

I pulled the intake manifold tonight and cleaned everything up....Im not going to buy new intake gaskets...they seem to look just fine and only have 300 miles on them...when I removed the intake the gaskets stayed put and didnt come up with the intake....will that be ok?

 

97 LT1 383 D1 AFR heads app...
Leaks... Frt pan/ rear main (1-piece) seal/ Rear intake china wall.
Stopped frt/ rear leaks with use of Lucas oil stabilizer.
Stopped intake leak by rough-up of block china wall, and, machined small 1/32 groove in alum intake manifold. Used pematex rtv black and let it set-up. No leaks, but, many on this site don't like my solution to the leak problem. But, it works for me.
Pan rail stiffener plates worked for me with a FelPro 1-piece with no rtv. (Canton road race pan).
I run an open breather system.
Hope this helps. B.