Ok, I'm stuck. I just spent 3 hours today trying to get out my driveshaft in my '91 Z28. I took out the bolts and brackets from the rear end yoke, but now what?

According to the Chilton manual now all I have to do is slide the driveshaft backwards. How do you do that when it is firmly nested up against the pinion yoke? I tried lowering the rear end but that didn't help at all.

Am I supposed to take out the tranny U-Joint first while still on the car? And what's the best way to do that? These have the nylon U-joints so I can't just pop out the snap rings? Again the Chilton starts talking about pressing them out, but I can't do that until the driveshaft is out of the car! Arrggghh!!

Jeff

 

has the rear of the car been lowered? ive seen that stop the driveshaft from coming out on a truck before but it probably wouldn't make much difference on your car

 

Can't tell to be honest. It doesn't look like it's any lower than a stock Z28, but I'll look into. Right now the car is jacked up on the SFC's and the axle is sitting on jack stands at roughly ride height ( +/- a couple inches)

But like I said I tried lifting and lowering it and the driveshaft stayed firmly in place.

 

It needs to slide towards the transmission. Sometimes you need to gently pry between the u-joint and the pinion yoke to pop the u-joint free.

 

After the bolts are out, slide a screw driver behind u-joint (in front of pinion yoke) and gentle pry. The whole drive shaft should slide forward (into transmission) enough to clear the rear end. Then lower it down and slide it out. For the nylon part- use a propane torch or equivalent to melt the nylon. You will see it come out the small holes on the yoke.

Matt

 

Yep that's your problem, I just caught the part where you were sliding it toward the pinion, it should already be touching the pinion and not be able to slide any further backwards. Like the other guy said, the yoke slips on the output shaft and when you push it all the way in the driveshaft should clear the yoke on the rear end and slide out of the tailhousing. It should be a 10 min job at the very most.

 

once you take the straps off you have to pry on the u-joint slightly, I usually use the ratchet O just undid the bolts with,


but to be honest, if you can't get the shaft out, I wouldn't recommend changing the U-joints if thats why you are taking it out,
get a shop to do it,
with the nylon kind you got to melt it out then press the caps out,
I usually beat the u-joints out, but I've done 100,000,000 of them so I got the technique down

 

Ohhh OK... That makes sense. The book said to slide it backwards but I was lookin at it thinkin: "There's no way, it already touching the pinion yoke!" I'll try prying it out gently tomorrow after work. But it sounds like thats all I have to do.

And yes, with the driveshaft out, I was thinking about replacing the U-Joints. If I took it to a shop to do, what kind of shop would know what to do? A general mechanic? A Suspension place? Also, what kind of U-Joint should I buy to replace these ones? Can you convert them to a snap-ring type?

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Thanks for the help! You've saved me hours of head-scratchin' and frustrated hammer pounding.

Jeff

 

Look for a drivetrain specialist in the phone book, or call NAPA or something local and ask them who to use....

I had new joints and it balanced for like $80.

 

don't forget what happens when you pull the driveshaft out of the tranny

tranny fluid, everywhere

 

Good Point. I would have forgotten about it for sure! I'll make sure I get the oil pan ready before I start anything.

I'll call around about the driveshaft. Thanks.

Jeff

 

The new ones will have the snap rings, the plastic crap is factory only(it's cheaper for them)!

If your going to do alot of drag raceing get a NON greaseable joint, but for every day use get the common greaseables.

 

Well, I was finally able to tug the driveshaft loose last night. I did exactly what you guys said and slid it fordwards, then back. It was so stuck in there that I had to use a big pry bar to separate them. I guess that's what happens after 150k miles and 15 years!

With the driveshaft off I was able to look at the joints closer. One in particular did not turn very easily. I think I will replace them both since I'm working on this stuff anyways.

Now I just need to find a place to do it for me....

Jeff

 

ANY shop will be able to do it, or you can do it yourself in about 15 minutes. As cheap as u joints are change both of them if they need it or not. If you take them to get changed make sure they tape the caps on or you will have needle bearings everywhere.