Has anybody put a heated o2 sensor on their car? If so was there and difference on how it ran. Also how did you wire it up.

 

I don't think there is really a difference unless you are having a freeflowing exhaust, large headers and it is cold outside then the O2 sensor might need some help in getting up to temp quicker. Once it does get to temp, it is the same.

 

One thing I've noticed is that with my long tube headers, the car will go into open loop if I hit a puddle and the headers get wet. I still have a one wire O2 sensor in the collector. I would have never known if I wasn't data logging when this happened.

 

I changed to a three wire heated sensor. After my headers were installed the car seemed to run rich all the time. It turned out that the one wire sensor wasn't getting hot enough.
They are easy to install. All you have to do is run one wire to ground and one to a positive source. The car ran much better afterwards.

 

SWITCHED Positive that is. Otherwise you would be killing your battery every now and then

 

yeah, forgot about that. Definately switched.

 

You might want to pick up a pigtail so that you dont have to slipce the o2 sensor wires. I stopped at the junk yard, and they let me pull one for free. The dealership wanted like $30.

 

I;d get a new one from the auto parts store. They are not that expensive

 

any part numbers that have been used. I went to the auto store and they didnt have a clue what i was talking about. some punk kid out of highschool,lol j/k so a part number would be helpful

 

i used a 4thgen style heated 02. with my lt's and 4" exhaust it was a must.

 

yeah i am running long tube headers and i 3 2 1/2 in exhuast. and i was told it would be a good idea to get one.

is the 4th gen a three wire cause i looked at a four wire, i didnt know how a four wire would hook up. i figured the three would be ground, pos, sig.

 

I used a 4-wire Bosch that I had laying around at work.....it was originally intended for a '94 F-150 but an O2 sensor is an O2 sensor. They all work the same (except the funky Caddy 2-wire O2s which use a 450mV reference.) If you get a 3-wire, the black one is the signal wire and the 2 white ones are for the heater (one to ground and one to ignition+.) If you get a 4-wire, black is signal, gray is sensor ground, and the 2 whites are heater.



Of course, I don't have an ECM and only needed it to drive an air/fuel gauge for part-throttle tuning purposes, but the principle is the same.

 

Your autoparts store has to have a set of weatherpak connectors. Solder the wires not butt connect them because butt connectors sometimes bite you just there.

 

Sounds good. I am going to try it. i hope it will make it run a little smoother and not so rich.

 

Rich is a totally different story. O2 sensors get lazy and don't shift as quiclly as they used to. If the O2 sensor was disconnected, the ECM would read 0V and thus richen the thing. 0V totally lean and 1V totally rich.