Educate Me
#16
Also the 91-92 had 28 spline axles, FWIW. The 10 bolt is still junk.
Check the VIN. The 8th digit is the engine code. If the engine hasnt been swapped, itll tell us, and you what engine is in it.
These cars handle like nobodies business. But the best description Ive heard for how they ride is like a bucket of bricks, falling down the stairs.
As for engine swaps, they arent too bad. There are alot that will "drop" in, but only if you dont mind the hassles of making the car work right. You have to deal with the check engine light, the VATS, and the 700r, etc... Nothing thats too bad, but stuff to look into. Go to thirdgen.org, like someone above posted, and look around. Thousands of pages of info.
As for the engines, the L03 has only one thing really going for it. Reliability. The darn things just work well. Just be preparred to lose acceleration contests to alot of cars, and trucks... and minivans, bread trucks, mopeds, kids on skateboards, women pushing strollers.....
Check the VIN. The 8th digit is the engine code. If the engine hasnt been swapped, itll tell us, and you what engine is in it.
These cars handle like nobodies business. But the best description Ive heard for how they ride is like a bucket of bricks, falling down the stairs.
As for engine swaps, they arent too bad. There are alot that will "drop" in, but only if you dont mind the hassles of making the car work right. You have to deal with the check engine light, the VATS, and the 700r, etc... Nothing thats too bad, but stuff to look into. Go to thirdgen.org, like someone above posted, and look around. Thousands of pages of info.
As for the engines, the L03 has only one thing really going for it. Reliability. The darn things just work well. Just be preparred to lose acceleration contests to alot of cars, and trucks... and minivans, bread trucks, mopeds, kids on skateboards, women pushing strollers.....
#17
FWIW, the 91/92s were a bit stronger (structurally), GM braced them up a bit. Not a huge difference, but noticable if you go side by side.
Sub frame connectors are your friend, I have a hard top (no connectors...yet) a buddy had a convertable with connectors and roll bar. His was very noticably stiffer (more solid feeling).
www.thirdgen.org is the best place to find out anything you could ever want to know about these cars. Welcome to the dark side
Sub frame connectors are your friend, I have a hard top (no connectors...yet) a buddy had a convertable with connectors and roll bar. His was very noticably stiffer (more solid feeling).
www.thirdgen.org is the best place to find out anything you could ever want to know about these cars. Welcome to the dark side
#18
#19
Or I read it in a mag. One of those 'invisible' upgrades noone knows about.
#20
Production improvements led to use of new body sealants that added to the rigidity of the body
says it started in 91 (doesn't say that in the Camaro section but being the are built on the same platform--in the same plant, it must have too)
http://www.thirdgen.org/1991-pontiac-firebird
#22
#23
sounds like a pretty good deal, as someone mentioned before check for rust, especially under the rear quarter panels.
as far as the weak rear ends go, you can directly replace them with a 4th gen rear. the tires stick out a little bit on each side but i think it gives it a meaner stance.
WELD IN subframe connectors and a strut tower brace will take away almost all of the squeaks and rattles. bolt in subframes are only as good as the bolted connections that are made, if the bolts loosen then they lose their effectiveness. absolutely a must if you are getting a t-top car.
i miss my 3rd gen so much, i put my heart and soul into that car for 3 years. Once i don't have to park in a parking garage that will kill a front end I'll consider getting another one.
as far as the weak rear ends go, you can directly replace them with a 4th gen rear. the tires stick out a little bit on each side but i think it gives it a meaner stance.
WELD IN subframe connectors and a strut tower brace will take away almost all of the squeaks and rattles. bolt in subframes are only as good as the bolted connections that are made, if the bolts loosen then they lose their effectiveness. absolutely a must if you are getting a t-top car.
i miss my 3rd gen so much, i put my heart and soul into that car for 3 years. Once i don't have to park in a parking garage that will kill a front end I'll consider getting another one.
#24
4th gen rear ends use the exact same posi-unit, gears, and 28 spline axles that later thirdgens use. (other than the axles being a bit longer) 4th gen rears are no stronger than thirdgen rears.
#25
And I personally believe the 4th gen rears to be slightly stronger case wise - compare the two. Both my LS1 rears (stock in my 2000, 02 rear in my 1985) have significantly more cast in bracing on the pumpkin.
#26
yeah as far as i know the 4th gen rears are regarded as stronger rear ends than those placed in the 3rd gens
its also an easy posi/4 wheel disc brake upgrade for a car that doesn't have either (which was the case with my car)
its also an easy posi/4 wheel disc brake upgrade for a car that doesn't have either (which was the case with my car)
#27
If he plans on making any kind of power, and using it, neither rearend will work. Even a modded 3rd/4th gen rear will not make it in a car with 450-500+hp, unless your really lucky. Some guys claim to go 11s with them, some cant go 13s.
Its best to just look at swapping, if you plan on dragracing it. If its just a daily driver, or even a road racer, the stock rear with some mods will work.
Its best to just look at swapping, if you plan on dragracing it. If its just a daily driver, or even a road racer, the stock rear with some mods will work.
#28
Ok, I dont mean the same brand and everything, I mean the posi units are interchangable.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ChrisFrez
CamaroZ28.Com Podcast
0
02-22-2015 08:47 AM