Well I went and dyno today......I guess its alright for what I did. I really dont know how to read dyno sheets. I did 4 runs 1 and 2 were the same...FP set at 48...#3 set FP to 46 and #4 set FP to 44..thats where I got my best pull...Also I think there may have been some left on the table cause after we got done I noticed the dyno fan was on low and not blowing out full blast and full blast compared to low was alot...but ohwell.

One of the guys there said not to get stuck on the peak power but the whole range. He said it was a great line.

So all you dyno gurrus tell me what you think...is it good? Tell me what to look at.

Its still a 305 but thats all I got to work with for now.

I dyno'ed 3 years ago and picked up 40 on both HP and TQ.

224hp and 293TQ
how do I post a pic so you can check out the graph for me and tell me about it?

 

that flywheel or rear wheel?

I'm assuming it's flywheel....225 seems about right.

I ran 15.1 on my 87 305 TPI (76k miles) with only an LT1 cam. So whatever thats worth to you.

 

Assuming that's rearwheel that seems pretty good for a 305 to me. That's around 265hp figuring in 18% drivetrain loss. Not too shabby seeing as you still have stock heads and intake base/runners. Still some room for improvement...

 

Sounds pretty respecatable to me. You just dynoed more HP to the rear wheels than a stock 305 was supposed to make at the flywheel that year. That's roughly a 20% improvement over stock-no small accomplishment. And I'll bet the midrange torque gains were even more impressive than the peak HP readings. And I'll also bet it's as street-drivable as stock.

I know of a recent post on another forum where somebody ran his slightly more modified carbureted 350 and didn't beat you on either HP or torque. He's not a happy camper.

What's even more impressive is that the LT-1 cam you put in isn't really any more agressive than the stock TPI "HO" cam with 1.6 rockers (not the low output "peanut cam"). The L-1 cam is about the same duration and LSA, give or take, as the HO TPI cam but it's got a bit more lift. Stab in an LT-4 "hot" cam and get the chip reprogrammed to match and I bet you see even more gains. You've obviously spent a good deal of time sweating the details and making sure you got the most out of your chosen modifications. I definitely respect that kind of attention to detail.

 

The numbers are rear wheel power....

 

Really?

Whats it run?

Those are impressive numbers then...nice work.

 

I have no clue what it runs....I'll find out my 1/8th times Saturday....lastime I ran it was before I did all this stuff and I did 15.4 but that was my first time ever..and I ran a 9.7 in the 1/8...someone said I would probably do high 8's if I can hook nd low 14's high 13's if I can hook..

 

you know how it is, always want more!

I figured with everything I added, I would have gotten alittle more out of it. How come not?

do you think ther still may be some left in the chip?

Sealed Ram Air Boxes "Fogs removed", Ported Plenum, LT1 cam, 1.6rr's, SLP Tri-Y headers coated, 160 fan switch and stat, Holley AFPR, MSD ignition mods, Underdrive Pullies 3-set.

Only 40hp?

 

What did you have to do to get the lt1 cam to fit? Was it a direct bolt in?

 

Im going tomorrow and run some 1/8th mile times and see what it does.

My cable came in so I can use Moates software,,,,would it be a good idea to have it hooked up when I do some runs? Will the data help me in what I may be able to do to get some more HP out of it?

thanks

 

Data is data. It's all useful if you know how to read it. I'm not sure if it'll read the O2 at WOT (the stock ECM zeros out the reading on my Diacom scanner at WOT). But you can see if you're getting knock retard for some reason (real or false), and if all the other readings are "sane." Watch your TPS readings to make sure it's reading near 4.5V @ WOT, CTS (coolant temp), MAT (manifold air temp), MAF sensor readings (measured in grams/second- if you get over 250, which is unlikely, you're getting near "saturation" with the stock MAF), and anything else that catches your eye.

If in doubt about any of these readings, feel free to drop me an email. I've done some TPI stuff over the years and I can tell you if anything is seriously out of whack. Start the data capture before you make a run and save the file after every run. Usually these files can be converted into Excel spreadsheets for easy sharing via email (Diacom can do this, at any rate).

Given your fairly impressive TQ and HP for a mildly modified 305 TPI I doubt anything is way off. I saw your graph over on Thirdgen.org. Nice- flat, smooth, no peaks, dips or valleys. It's pretty close to right.

Your cam and heads are what's holding you back, mostly. Stock heads don't flow enough, and the LT-1 cam isn't much more aggressive than the stock 305 TPI cam you took out, except it has have a bit more lift. On a MAF-equipped car, given your mods, a custom chip wouldn't do much, in my opinion. MAF cars (especially ones that still use the stock MAF) are more forgiving of engine changes. They're somewhat self-calibrating. Later 91-92 speed density TPI engines don't like changes to the engine's basic breathing characteristics at all- they like to be re-tuned with even realtively mild changes.

 

That's pretty good.
I never got a chance to dyno my 86 T/A when I did the cam and TPI swap, but I did get to run at the track before the motor died.
I ran a 14.1 @ 99mph with a 2.3 60' time with the ecm running in limp home mode.
I didn't realize it was in limp home mode till I tried to scan the car with a friends Diacam program. That night we found out my PP2 wasn't programming my chips correctly, every chip I burned was bad.
We put a good chip in the car and then the motor started knocking. A few days later the motor was knocking so bad that I couldn't drive it anymore.

Here is the best slip of that night at the track with the TPI and cam,


And this is the best time with the LG4,

 

Well I went to the track today and my 1/8th mile times sucked....I thought I would be lower.

I could only manage a 9.39 thats with a 2.11 60' ...2.73 gears

I tried everything...I messed with timing and got my best run when I bumped it up to 10* when I had it dyno'ed it was only set at 8* that got me 224hp.....so maybe the 10* got me a little bit more.

I thought I could atleast get in the high 8's .....

before I did any of the mods the best a did was a 9.72 and was about the same 60' and that was with 40hp/tq less that what I have now and still with the 2.73's

3 tenths from those mods...damn what a waste!



how can I get lower? why do my times suck so bad?

Im freakin all show and no go!.....embarrassed

 

Some 3.42 gears would be great, and I'd yank the intake and runners off and go to town porting on them... Try you hand at porting the heads if you feel like getting adventurous...

I don't think a mid 14 in the quarter (a 9.39 roughly works out to a 14.5) is bad at all for a 305 TPI auto with 2.73s. You're not that heavily modded really, cam, headers, AFPR, pulleys are free mods aren't going to make a rocketship out of a 305, especially with an auto and 2.73s... But you're running a respectable time IMO. Even if you drop aftermarket heads and some TPI work on there you aren't going to be conquering the world with the 305...

 

yeah but how are these people running 13's with less than what I got?

So what do you think runners, 3.42's and a stall would give me? in the 8th and 1/4?