ADS or TPIS cannot do it that well. I would suggest you give www.fasterproms.com a call. They make a truely custom chip based on your specs and if you send them feedback by borrowng their DIACOM unit, they will keep tuning it till it is on. Same as dyno tuning except the road is your dyno. I have used their services for my car and have been happy with it. PM me if you need any more info on them

 

hey whats up? i see your from CT too...

Here's my thoughts... a friend of mine went through a simliar issue with his formula, bought a superchips chip, didnt work, then went to get it reburned, was told they didn't support it anymore.

DIY prom may be the best bet, Ed Wright is probably going to be your man...

the problem your having is not only with the fuel pressure, but with the injector size. There is an injector constant in the stock ecm and that has to be changed in order for the fuel tables to deliver the right amount of fuel. it will be intresting to see what happens with the new MAF you have on order, but the real issue is the injectors.

My suggestion is get talking with ed wright and cancel your order on the tpis chip... Ed has tuned a lot of cars and probably one with a very simliar setup to yours.

Steve

 

Yeh thanks alot. I did call Ed Wright at fastchips. He recomended 30lb. Ford motorsport injectors. I am also going to have them burn me a chip. I cancelled the TPIS chip and am going to send back the Granatelli adjustable mass air sensor. If you live in Connecticut should hookup in the spring hopefully my car will be running correctly. I'm curious, do you know of any chassis dynos around. I want to make sure the tune is on the money.

 

Stay away from tpis and their chips, they are clueless. You have a basic chip/mechanical issue to fix. Get with someone in an f-body club close to you who burns chips and do it the right way.

 

What do you think about ED Wright At fast chips in Oklahoma. By the way thanks for the heads up about TPIS. Nice GTA looks like a sleeper.

 

check out bristol dyno - check out www.ctfba.com too

www.bristoldyno.com

 

Whoever makes the chip for you, make sure they do it and then have the ability and will make reburns for you with feedback data. No one I know of is good enough to burn it right the first time.

 

Yeh just wanted to update my situation. Installed 30lb. Motorsport injectors and a custom prom burned by fast chip Ed Wright. The car finally woke up feels pretty strong. However, the torque converter is locking up way too early it even locks in 2nd gear! When going part throttle the car will shift very quickly and lock up in 2nd, 3rd,and OD. it feels like it could stall. Secondly have a problem on warm starts after running car just cranks. I have to step on the gas pedal to make it start. I have a feeling there has to be something going on with this new computer chip. I'm hoping that the people at fastchip will do the right thing and correct the problem. It never did this with the old prom. What do you guys think?

 

I thought that lockup is sent to the tranny from the ECM? How is it locking up in 2nd when it should have a certain parameter for deciding lockup and it does so in the Overdrive?

I'd make sure it is a truely custom chip and not some off the shelf unit. That is why I sent you to fasterproms. They burn you a chip and you hold on to it till the next one comes and so on till it is done and you send the lot back. No down time. That series of burns is about $350, AFAIK and the next series will cost you $150. Only time you need to reburn is if you do major work like heads, cam, intake.

 

It was too late by the time faster proms got back to me. I,m not understanding your synopsis on the lockup theory. Yes it is controlled by the ECM via the "prom". I can gaurantee you that I felt convertor locking up in second gear very strange. Ed Wright did custom burn this chip and I do beleive it is not a generic piece. They got all my specs on my combination when I faxed it over to them. Lockup is a parameter that can be changed when burning a chip right?

 

i would say talk to Ed first before discussing it here... lockup is an ecm function in your case. Usually it is set to unlock at certain throttle positions and speeds. Talk to Ed, he will work with you.

 

I dont even think the 4L60(700r4) can get lockup oil to the converter in second gear...huh? I did not think it is physically possible but I could be wrong...its known to happen with me time to time .

Later,

Erik

 

lockup of the convertor is predetermined by what speed you set the "lockup" at in the chip. For instants, in my car, I have to set it at 53mph since I did a gear swap. if I leave it at the factory 35mph it actually locks up at about 27 (3.73 gears). The car lugs and I have to keep it in 3rd just to keep the R's up so it won't lug.

 

Yes just want to give you my current dillemma. I sent the prom back to ed wright they did straighten out the lockup to only come on at 50 Mph. However I am not sure about the air fuel delivery. I think it's running too rich. Does anyone run 30lb motorsport injectors? While monitoring my injector pulse width with the X-ray scanner It was something like over 5.0 -6.0 volts at 3/4 throttle- full. My stoichiometric gauge in the car was lit full rich. Also the plugs look very black sooty. Is a wideband chassis dyno in order. What suggestions for tuning Timing, fuel pressure, Tps etc.. might you have. I got to have this car in perfect tune before taking it to the track. Hoping to go low 12,s.

 

I have run them with no problems. You need to set the EPROM to 30# in the injector size setting. Currently I am running at stock pressure FMS injectors that are 42 pph.

Pulse Width is measured in miliseonds not voltage. What is your O2 sensor voltage? AFAIK, the o2 sensor will read between 0 - 1 V. At idle, my pulse width is about 1.4-1.6 miliseconds. Not sure what yours should be. It depends on the setting in the EPROM.

If your plugs are sooty then it is running too rich. A properly adjusted chip will not run too rich.

I never had my car tuned with a wideband O2 sensor. I had it on the dyno with the sensor I am running. With Fasterproms, I used the road as my dyno and with Hitechmotorsport, I used a chasis dyno because I wanted a HP number.

Timing should be set at 6 deg or whatever Ed recommends. Mine is set for 6 deg because that is what the EPROM is basing it off. To get it to idle right, you have to set the IAC to say 10-20 counts after it is warmed up and in closed loop. Then you set the TPS to whatever Ed tells you to. Mine are all set to stock settings of .54V