Wow, rather keep an L98...now thats just crazy talk right there. If I had an L98 it may be worth it, but certainly not if you were gonna swap one in place of a 305. RWHP is for bragginr rights, thats correct..but with some many variances it makes it the best way at looking at a street cars potential. Now cars for all out drag can't fall into this, because there are certain things that you will find more on drag cars that make these numbers lower. 290RWHP is CAKE to get with an Lt1....many LT1's are there with some headers and a CAI. I could swap an LT1 in for about 1/4 the price of an LS1...and if he wants to really start modding with internal parts its really a toss up whether a LS1 would be better. For most an LT1 is the way to go, it's cheaper, its easier, and from the factory it has more potential than a L98. The reason that I say this is because the L98 heads are OK, but not as good as an LT1's heads. For instance, when I had my L98 I had AFR 190's. They cost me alot of money ($1800)...I got some LE2 stock casting heads, that outflow the AFR's...with stock castings . Now after I got the heads I had to address the L98 intake...because the stock TPI setup is **** poor in regards to making power where I wanted it...I get the all mighty Mini-Ram 2...thats a badass setup( yes, Jeff I know you don't like it)...the Lt1 was blessed with a factory intake setup that is very similar....so that can be ported for a mere 100-150 dollars. Opti-Sparks aren't that bad either, they have just gotten a bad rap. They do there job, and its up to the task of providing the spark needed to make high HP stock...so I cant complain. I think its a matter of experience and patience, if you know what you are doing they are easily maintained. All this makes the swap that much better, and ends up be cheaper. Cam and bolt-ons my LT1 made almost 340RWHP...lets see the old L98 do that. lol

 

You've already sunk time and money into the current motor. Leave it the way it is and enjoy it for a while, while saving money for future plans....

- Justin

 

I say do a good ole' fashioned Carbed motor.

2nd option- LT1

Last - LS1/L98

 

Carbed LT1 would be badass and much cheaper than an equivalant plain jane SBC.

 

As of right now the motor is carbed Another problem is I dont know fuel-injection AT ALL, so if I were to do a FI-motor swap, I am going to have to read-up on EVERYTHING all over again. That will be the most difficult part.
Thank everybody for your oppinions though, keep 'em coming!

 

well if its carbed, and you have no existing wires for the original TPI...i'd say go with a variation of a LT1...because than you can just start from scratch, and put some newer technology in there....there's no sense of putting old technology in when you have the chance of putting new stuff in there...

second thought, you coudl always stay carberated too...

 

My car was never TPI Originally a Rochester Q-Jet

 

I say an LS1 Swap is the way to go. I'd find somebody selling a low mileage LS1 Shortblock and put a decent set of heads and stout camshaft in there and have a ball.

That would be a great car to drive for certain.

 

Hell ya it would be a great car to drive! Not to mention the gas-mileage I would achieve would be amazing! But I am thinking that this is gonna cost more than it's worth. I will need the LS1 tranny, rear-end, new rims that are larger, and the list goes on

 

You wouldn't need a new rear, or new wheels. I think LS1 swaps are cool but I don't feel they are that cost effective either. I have talked to a few guys about this option and stuff just adds up so quickly. Heck even finding an LS1 for less than $3500 is difficult. You could find a Complete LT1+T56 for $2500 or less with wiring harness and all accessories. Hooking it up isn't difficult either. That would leave $1000 + for cam, bolt ons and other stuff and it would have plenty of power. If you have the money then sure go ahead and swap in an LS1, but if ya got that much money ya might as well buy an LS1 car.

 

In order for the LS1 to transfer all it's power to the ground, I would need at *least* the stock T56 for them. Using a T56 would mean needing an LS1 or LT1 drive-shaft. Since their lengths are different than my stock d/s, then I would also need the LS1 rear-end (to hold the power over my stock 10-bolt as well). That would mean I need bigger rims because my stock 15's wont fit on an LS1 rear.

 

If you used a T56 it would use the same driveshaft your T5 uses. LS1 rear is really not any stronger than your 10 bolt, its the same thing with a different differential. Next is stock wheels will fit over rear LS1 brakes.

 

well, i'd like to see a 305 that makes a streetable 405 hp.... I'm sure it's possible, but a waste of money. i tried that route before. not much luck. really, for the best easy bang for the buck, pick up an l98 and build it. put a converted lt1 intake ot it, or a holley stealth ram. you'll be riding nicely, without the major PITA of the lt1 swap.

 

Just curious why everyone seems to think the LT1 swap is so difficult? It seems pretty strait forward to me. It would be just as difficult to throw an L98 in because his car is carbed, not TPI..so he still has wiring to do. Like I said LT1 and L98's are pretty much the same price, and LT1 has many advantages over it.

 

unless you have whitnessed an lt1 swap into a 3rd ge, itdoes seem easy. you have to change a motor mount, run reverse cooling, all new wiring. an l98 fits right in and uses the same cooling and all. the lt1 swap is a major PITA from what i've seen. lots of splicing into the wiring harness.