Here is the prob; One day i drove to visit a friend, spend the nite there, the next the car wont start, took it to a mechanic, the mechnic changed the Module (sp) and the pickup coil, and and said that the car is an "E" car and the equipment is "F", and he could not get the timing right. Now, the car runs fine when it is driven cold or not too worm, but then it starts to knock as you step on the gas (as if when you are in third gear doing 25MPH and you step on the gas... that kind of knock). then the problem gets worse, it is auto, so if you go in D or L2 the knocking kinda goes away but it is still there. .
if you conitue driving it, it wants to die and cuts off whenever you step on the gas?. after that it is hard to start. until it cools down
can you fellas help, the first time it cost me 250 bucks, i hate to take it to another mechanic and have it cost another 250 bucks. Oh the first mechaninc is about 2 hrs away from where i live, and my buddy picked the car for me so ido not know what he ment by "E" and the "F"

thanks

 

E and F could be related to the vin for the motor ie 350tpi=8 305tip=f 305tbi=e
Are you talking about pinging or knocking.

 

well.. the car has the 305 tbi in it.
as for the noise pinging may be the better description. it is like when your drive a manaul car and you are cruising along at low speed in third gear you go to pass someone or go faster, it makes that sound, I guess it is pinging, so you put in second and step on it. I hope I described clearly… I only got a “D” in my technical writing class.. come to think of it I got D’s in my English classes too LOL…
thanks for the reply...
i do need the help... since i am driving a junky loaner for now, worse from arelative !!!

 

Pinging is usually caused by your timing being too far advanced. Make sure you unplug your advance wire first or you will get the wrong reading. My wire is orange with a black tracer, but I remember hearing on here that some people had to disconnect a brown wire. The wire is located on top of the heater box in the engine compartment.

 

i had a similar problem, ended up changing my distributor,knock sensor,and coil..also changed the plugs and wires while i was at it, make sure you redo the titming with a timing light after, and the distributor is in right. I'm not saying its all those problems, thats the problems i had, It also could be the elctronic spark control module, or the distributor rotor, did u use the car's onboard diagnostics?
and code come up?

 

Does this make sense to anyone here or do you think this mechanic was just dumb and talking bull**** because this doesnt make any sense to me.

 

if the car was running fine before than what does "E" and "F" have to do anything, simply just something went bad and needs to be changed

 

Shwine617;
Thanks i will try what you have done ...cheapest parts first then i will update you...
as for the code.. i just ran it (got a code reader from a buddy of mine) followed the steps it only give code 23, no "hard codes" as the book called them.

but i will start with knock sensor, as for the plugs, i just gave it a tune up not too long ago, 2-3 wks before all this happened. and just to let you know, i did fill it up with gas just minutes before i parked it, and the next day it would not start. and that was my first thought, that it was bad gas, which i will drain this weekeend too, just to make sure.

Doug;
that is what i thought too, but i figured i'd run it by you fellas just in case i was mistaken, i even called the dealership here in town, and the guy told me the same thing..but at the time i had to take it to the nearest mechanic...the option on my insurance required that.. Now i have AAA and i have up to 100 miles of towing, and that is how i got it home. i suppose live and learn eh...

again thanks fellas and i will keep you posted..

Sy.
PS your guys' help and web sites like this what keep me owing GM product i really appreciate the help...

 

okay couple things did you change anything withing a day or two of the problem starting? I hate when people go do a job then when something doesnt work they dont think to check what they just did. Not accusing you of this just wondering.

And you said you asked a guy at the dealership and he agreed with the E-F thing?!?!? did he explain it? I dont understand anyways supposing your car was an "e" car and it had "F" stuff in it whatever the hell that means then wouldnt you just diagnose it for F stuff?!?!?! Itd be like me dropping a big block in my car and then taking it to a mechanic and him saying nope it came with a small block and now it has a big block on it so you cant fix it. WTF?!?!? I hate mechanics ive taken my car to 2 of them with my current problems and one of them was at least honest and said they couldnt figure it out and didnt charge me anything and the second mechanic charged me for an hours worth of work and didnt come up with anything useful either. They are all useless IMO unless you find a really good one. I actually find people on this board to be better at figuring out problems solely based on decriptions of them then a mechanic who has his hands on the car.

Now that im done ranting if anyone understands wtf the E and F stuff is could you please explain it to me?

 

Yeah I'd really like an explaination of e and f also...I've been to multiple auto tech courses and even placed in a couple of competitions, and I've had f-bodys since I was 16 (22 now) I have no clue what the heck he could be talking about.

 

Doug; Slow;

I got this from Geezer powered, the first reply to my question ..."E and F could be related to the vin for the motor ie 350tpi=8 305tip=f 305tbi=e ..."

I think he is correct, who am i to disagree, but i think i read it some where in one of the web sites ..i cant recall which.

 

That makes sense but, the mechanic still doesn't...I put my ignition (distributer and all) into a tbi car and it was fine.

 

yeah it really doesnt make sense....if the stuff wasnt compatible your car just wouldnt work otherwise if it is the mechanic is just a moron.