I replaced the MAP. Going to test drive now.

BTW when I replaced it, the check engine light was still on (I did unhook the battery). But, on the scan tool, right when I told it to scan for codes, it disappeared.

I dunno.

Also, are the fans supposed to come on when turning the key? Seems like it wont go out of diagnostic mode if so.

 

I love replying to myself. Its fun.
Engine light still on and car drives like crap. Buying a scanner in a few days.

 

"MAP sensor too high" isn't a bad MAP sensor. It's detecting a high manifold pressure. I can't really think of anything that might cause this except engine compression getting into the intake manifold.

Check the PCV valve. If there's excessive blow by past the rings, the crankcase pressure will go high and be forced back into the intake through the PCV. Pull the PCV line off and plug it at the manifold and see if the engine still acts up.

Another possibility is a leaking head or intake gasket letting compression into the crankcase then back into the intake.

You might want to do a compression test and maybe a cylinder leakdown test. I don't think it's an electrical fault.

 

Thanks for the reply.
To clarify something real quick - most of the time, when the engine light comes on, the rpms will cut in half. I will run a code check, and it will return nothing.

But, today when the light came on, sometimes the rpms would actually increase, and that is when I could get a code (33).

The compression test is a good idea but I dont see how it could affect speedometer readings.

 

sometimes while i was driving, the speedo would go down to zero and the rpms would jump a few hunderd rpms... also got a SES light.... it was my VSS, it was loose and needed to be pushed back in

 

Interesting. Maybe I hit something?
Im having VSS problems with my truck also (leaks oil and doesnt get a good signal somtimes). But, on my truck, the VSS goes to the computer, then splits to the cruise control and the speedo. It doesnt shift gears via speed like the newer ones (unplug the VSS and it shifts just fine).

Maybe its a totally different setup on the camaro?

 

Now the car wont even stay started.
Pulled cylinder 1's spark plug (plugs are 200 miles old). Black soot all over.

Guess its time to tow to the shop.

 

oooooo ****. im having a flash back to around a month ago when that happened to me. spark plugs were black... smelt like gas but looked like oil... lost compression in 5 cylinders when i took it to my friend's garage.

where's your fp at right now? make sure it isnt too high, you probably flooded the engine with gas? get some cheap plugs from discount and put them in to try and burn the unburnt gas. maybe that'll fix it up if that's your problem... and if it doesn't... i'd be looking for a good rebuild kit. stroker anyone? lol go with a stroker rebuild with 10:3:1 compression pistons... you'll gain a lot of power by stroking it to a 383, and when you raise the compression.

 

I dont have any money.
Ill have to wait and see what the technician says before I decide whether or not its worth keeping the vehicle.

 

drive the truck until you can swap the block

even get a compression tested used block and swap it yourself

or sell the camaro to me

 

Ill wait for the results from the technician and if its bad, im canceling the insurance and itll sit in it's own parking spot for the next year or so. If I lose my job ill sell it.