building a 305 h.o
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 317
From: Seattle, WA
Isn't a 305 stroker like a 334 or something unusual like that?
As far as "top end only" does that include the cam and heads (everyone has their own definition, that's why I ask)
I am sure that full exhaust (headers, true duals or a good Y-pipe and catback, along with a nice Edelbrock performer manifold and matching carb (600 Holley or so) would wake it up and maybe a new MSD ignition (?)........heads & cam would just be that much better.......anything else is going to start getting into that (must redo the internals) stage that you seem to not want to do......not that I can blame ya. I am sure the above would make it a respectable and (more) fun car. Otherwise, it's time for a block change.
As far as "top end only" does that include the cam and heads (everyone has their own definition, that's why I ask)
I am sure that full exhaust (headers, true duals or a good Y-pipe and catback, along with a nice Edelbrock performer manifold and matching carb (600 Holley or so) would wake it up and maybe a new MSD ignition (?)........heads & cam would just be that much better.......anything else is going to start getting into that (must redo the internals) stage that you seem to not want to do......not that I can blame ya. I am sure the above would make it a respectable and (more) fun car. Otherwise, it's time for a block change.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,161
From: Haslett, Michigan
Yes.
Yes, again! Pop on a set of new Vortech heads from Scoggin Dickey, then toss on their Vortech intake, and stab a Comp Cams XE262 cam in there.
I totally agree. Put in a 2700 RPM lockup converter as well. A switch from the stock converter to a 2700 RPM converter was worth 4 tenths in the quarter mile, once I did my 305's engine mods. I stuck with the CLCC Quadrajet though: It's plenty stout for keeping up with the new mods, just by itself.
I am sure that full exhaust (headers, true duals or a good Y-pipe and catback, along with a nice Edelbrock performer manifold and matching carb (600 Holley or so) would wake it up and maybe a new MSD ignition (?)........heads & cam would just be that much better.......anything else is going to start getting into that (must redo the internals) stage that you seem to not want to do......not that I can blame ya. I am sure the above would make it a respectable and (more) fun car. Otherwise, it's time for a block change.
Last edited by ws6transam; Nov 21, 2006 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Added a teaser picture!
Banned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,610
From: Holland, NY
I hope this isn't going to turn into another "I ran 9's with my stock 305," thread!
There are only a few good reasons for modding a 305, depending of course on how much hp your looking for. But in any case you can achieve the same or more hp with a 350 or 383, for the SAME or LESS cost. The reason I say this, is because the cost of components for SBC's is appoximately the same. I.e., if you buy heads at level X for a 305 they will cost the same as heads at level X for a 350. A forged crank that can handle 7000rpm for your 305 will cost the same as a forged crank for a 383, that will handle 7000rpm.
As an example, if you go to AFR's web. site, you'll notice that all SBC heads are all listed together. They don't separate them into 305ci, heads and 350ci., heads, etc. So the 210cc race heads are the same cost wether you put them on a 305 or a 350.
The problem of getting power out of a 305 should be obvious, in order to get high hp levels out of a small engine you have to either rev. it higher or put a power adder on it.
Again the money you spend on a power adder, be it blower, turbo, or NOX, will be approximately the same for any ci engine, and will still require expensive internal mods. to support them.
Now if your building an engine for a spec. class, that restricts engine size, of course that's different.
I haven't checked, but I would be willing to make a virtual bet, that if you have two guys with 3rd Gen's, both 305's and both needing rebuilds. And you gave them each $3,000.00 dollars. And one rebuilds the 305 and the other buys a 383 off E-Bay, the guy with the 383 will have more hp.
There are only a few good reasons for modding a 305, depending of course on how much hp your looking for. But in any case you can achieve the same or more hp with a 350 or 383, for the SAME or LESS cost. The reason I say this, is because the cost of components for SBC's is appoximately the same. I.e., if you buy heads at level X for a 305 they will cost the same as heads at level X for a 350. A forged crank that can handle 7000rpm for your 305 will cost the same as a forged crank for a 383, that will handle 7000rpm.
As an example, if you go to AFR's web. site, you'll notice that all SBC heads are all listed together. They don't separate them into 305ci, heads and 350ci., heads, etc. So the 210cc race heads are the same cost wether you put them on a 305 or a 350.
The problem of getting power out of a 305 should be obvious, in order to get high hp levels out of a small engine you have to either rev. it higher or put a power adder on it.
Again the money you spend on a power adder, be it blower, turbo, or NOX, will be approximately the same for any ci engine, and will still require expensive internal mods. to support them.
Now if your building an engine for a spec. class, that restricts engine size, of course that's different.
I haven't checked, but I would be willing to make a virtual bet, that if you have two guys with 3rd Gen's, both 305's and both needing rebuilds. And you gave them each $3,000.00 dollars. And one rebuilds the 305 and the other buys a 383 off E-Bay, the guy with the 383 will have more hp.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 317
From: Seattle, WA
Yes.
Yes, again! Pop on a set of new Vortech heads from Scoggin Dickey, then toss on their Vortech intake, and stab a Comp Cams XE262 cam in there.
I totally agree. Put in a 2700 RPM lockup converter as well. A switch from the stock converter to a 2700 RPM converter was worth 4 tenths in the quarter mile, once I did my 305's engine mods. I stuck with the CLCC Quadrajet though: It's plenty stout for keeping up with the new mods, just by itself.
Yes, again! Pop on a set of new Vortech heads from Scoggin Dickey, then toss on their Vortech intake, and stab a Comp Cams XE262 cam in there.
I totally agree. Put in a 2700 RPM lockup converter as well. A switch from the stock converter to a 2700 RPM converter was worth 4 tenths in the quarter mile, once I did my 305's engine mods. I stuck with the CLCC Quadrajet though: It's plenty stout for keeping up with the new mods, just by itself.
And being a stick shift guy (and not knowing his car is an auto) I forgot about the converter. DEFINITELY a good idea. Along with maybe a shift kit even?
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,161
From: Haslett, Michigan
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BTW, Here's the easy way to answer the question: Spend $4000 and buy this engine:
http://www.michiganspeed.com/Speedfo...ad.php?t=12347
Low 12's with no muss, fuss, or bother. A little spray and you'll be a low 11-second street hero.
---
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
This started with mycamaro84 asking about a HIGH OUTPUT engine. Now I don't know how you define high output but to me that means starting from the bottom up, or in this case the crank up.
I've also never said that someone who has a nice 3rd gen with a realitively low miles 305 shouldn't do add-ons, to gain a little performance and increase the fun factor.
But don't fool yourself into thinking your going to run rings around MOST of modded Mustangs much less the LT's or LS's.
I've also never said that someone who has a nice 3rd gen with a realitively low miles 305 shouldn't do add-ons, to gain a little performance and increase the fun factor.
But don't fool yourself into thinking your going to run rings around MOST of modded Mustangs much less the LT's or LS's.
Banned
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,610
From: Holland, NY
You have got to be joking, right??
---
BTW, Here's the easy way to answer the question: Spend $4000 and buy this engine:
http://www.michiganspeed.com/Speedfo...ad.php?t=12347
Low 12's with no muss, fuss, or bother. A little spray and you'll be a low 11-second street hero.
---
---
BTW, Here's the easy way to answer the question: Spend $4000 and buy this engine:
http://www.michiganspeed.com/Speedfo...ad.php?t=12347
Low 12's with no muss, fuss, or bother. A little spray and you'll be a low 11-second street hero.
---
LOL you guys were funny then and still are!! Do I really have to aim you to SEVERAL 300-340hp 305 buildups, then show you just how much the parts are???
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 317
From: Seattle, WA
This started with mycamaro84 asking about a HIGH OUTPUT engine. Now I don't know how you define high output but to me that means starting from the bottom up, or in this case the crank up.
I've also never said that someone who has a nice 3rd gen with a realitively low miles 305 shouldn't do add-ons, to gain a little performance and increase the fun factor.
But don't fool yourself into thinking your going to run rings around MOST of modded Mustangs much less the LT's or LS's.
I've also never said that someone who has a nice 3rd gen with a realitively low miles 305 shouldn't do add-ons, to gain a little performance and increase the fun factor.
But don't fool yourself into thinking your going to run rings around MOST of modded Mustangs much less the LT's or LS's.
Last edited by Rottluver; Nov 22, 2006 at 03:17 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 3,768
From: Friendswood, TX, USA
I think a better example would be this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350-4...QQcmdZViewItem
Take that same $3500.00 dollars and go to Jegs or Summit and start buying parts for your 305 rebuild. When you run out of money see where you are for hp and torque.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 317
From: Seattle, WA
Kind of why I posted. He asked about building not rebuilding a 305. But even if your are rebuilding a worn out 305 I think I would still recommend staring with a 350 block. The last build up I did, I was able to find a 4 bolt main 350 short block for only $100.00. Even if it were $200 or $250 and you had a cap of $2500 for the rebuild, I think it would be worth it.
I think a better example would be this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350-4...QQcmdZViewItem
Take that same $3500.00 dollars and go to Jegs or Summit and start buying parts for your 305 rebuild. When you run out of money see where you are for hp and torque.
I think a better example would be this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/350-4...QQcmdZViewItem
Take that same $3500.00 dollars and go to Jegs or Summit and start buying parts for your 305 rebuild. When you run out of money see where you are for hp and torque.
That and he said he just wants to do the top end, so my guess is he isn't able/ready/whatever or doesn't want to put in a different motor.
Last edited by Rottluver; Nov 22, 2006 at 03:27 PM.
Registered User
Joined: Dec 1998
Posts: 2,161
From: Haslett, Michigan
Might I suggest the Comp Cams XE254H and an Edelbrock Torquer manifold? I'd also suggest that if the carb is in working order, that you retain it. That carb can flow 750 CFM and support well over 300 HP.