Best camshaft without tuning..
Best camshaft without tuning..
First off I know what most of you are going to say...do a search. Well let me say that I have done that route before and I don't have the hours needed to sift through all the comments to get the facts that I am looking for. So please bare with me.
I am wondering what the best camshaft would be for the L98 without having to get into custom programming. One that the stock (ported) MAF, stock (ported) intake, and stock pcm could handle. I am doing this for a friend. I know that not going to big is the way to go. What are you guys running for cams that didn't need a tune to run?? Any help would be great, thanks!
I am wondering what the best camshaft would be for the L98 without having to get into custom programming. One that the stock (ported) MAF, stock (ported) intake, and stock pcm could handle. I am doing this for a friend. I know that not going to big is the way to go. What are you guys running for cams that didn't need a tune to run?? Any help would be great, thanks!
Well, cams aren't cheap if it's an '87 and up motor with stock roler cam. If I spent the $239-$299 that most cost I'd go big enough to make a big increase in power. Otherwise I'd just check into getting some 1.6 Ratio roller or roller-tip rockers. You can gain .030" lift and free up some power from having accurate ratio minimum friction rockers.
Then if you get ready to make some changes in programming etc, install a bigger cam that will have an acceptable lift with your 1.6 rockers.
But if you still want to just change to a slightly bigger cam only, check out some used LT1 cams in the sale section. Something like the LT4 cam should work good. With your stock rockers it should look something like this;
Part# 12551142 Duration= 203*/210* Lift@1.5=.446"/.450" LSA @115*seperation.(with 1.6 rockers add .030" to lift numbers)
Then if you get ready to make some changes in programming etc, install a bigger cam that will have an acceptable lift with your 1.6 rockers.
But if you still want to just change to a slightly bigger cam only, check out some used LT1 cams in the sale section. Something like the LT4 cam should work good. With your stock rockers it should look something like this;
Part# 12551142 Duration= 203*/210* Lift@1.5=.446"/.450" LSA @115*seperation.(with 1.6 rockers add .030" to lift numbers)
With a 1.6 rocker the LT4 hotcams lifts are, .525" int/.525" exhaust. A little bit more than your + .30" theory. I also believe a hotcam is a bit too much for the stock programming. Thats coming from my experience of having one in a relatively stock '88 L98 TPI. It didn't work well until I freed up the intake, added a 3000 stall and got custom programming.
He's not talking about the LT4 HOT cam, he is referring to the LT4 STOCK cam that came in the production LT4 engines. 
Crane makes a few good cams that are 50 state legal and work with the stock programming. The biggest is 214/220 and .450" lift, part#2032.
http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy37.htm

Crane makes a few good cams that are 50 state legal and work with the stock programming. The biggest is 214/220 and .450" lift, part#2032.
http://www.cranecams.com/master/apps/chevy37.htm
Are you familiar with what is involved when changing a camshaft? If so, the question is why you would hamstring yourself. A custom EPROM is only about $350 and it would even help a completely stock system. You telling me that you want to go thru all that work just to hamstring yourself in the choice of cam? Sound like "penny wise, pound foolish", IMO.
To do a cam, you might be able to get away with doing it in the car or you might find it easier to take the engine out. Now, you will probably have to change the lifters if it is a high mileage car, check pushrods and definately check valve springs and make adjustments to the head if necessary to support that lift. After all that, you want to hamstring yourself to save $350?
To do a cam, you might be able to get away with doing it in the car or you might find it easier to take the engine out. Now, you will probably have to change the lifters if it is a high mileage car, check pushrods and definately check valve springs and make adjustments to the head if necessary to support that lift. After all that, you want to hamstring yourself to save $350?
Originally posted by aklim
Are you familiar with what is involved when changing a camshaft? If so, the question is why you would hamstring yourself. A custom EPROM is only about $350 and it would even help a completely stock system. You telling me that you want to go thru all that work just to hamstring yourself in the choice of cam? Sound like "penny wise, pound foolish", IMO.
To do a cam, you might be able to get away with doing it in the car or you might find it easier to take the engine out. Now, you will probably have to change the lifters if it is a high mileage car, check pushrods and definately check valve springs and make adjustments to the head if necessary to support that lift. After all that, you want to hamstring yourself to save $350?
Are you familiar with what is involved when changing a camshaft? If so, the question is why you would hamstring yourself. A custom EPROM is only about $350 and it would even help a completely stock system. You telling me that you want to go thru all that work just to hamstring yourself in the choice of cam? Sound like "penny wise, pound foolish", IMO.
To do a cam, you might be able to get away with doing it in the car or you might find it easier to take the engine out. Now, you will probably have to change the lifters if it is a high mileage car, check pushrods and definately check valve springs and make adjustments to the head if necessary to support that lift. After all that, you want to hamstring yourself to save $350?
Originally posted by samiam305
It's funny when I hear someone talk about $350 like it is pocket change. I understand, and am interested in an answer to the original thread. I have a 92 RS, 305, but I also have a stay at home wife, two kids and a mortgage. So, in other words, I would be interested in a cam that could give me a little more performance, but wouldn't make me have to change too much, or spend the extra $$ on tuning.
It's funny when I hear someone talk about $350 like it is pocket change. I understand, and am interested in an answer to the original thread. I have a 92 RS, 305, but I also have a stay at home wife, two kids and a mortgage. So, in other words, I would be interested in a cam that could give me a little more performance, but wouldn't make me have to change too much, or spend the extra $$ on tuning.
Any cam can use an EPROM burn even the stock cam. The GM burn is way too conservative. Just sharing my experiences. You can all take it any way you want but it is precisely the fact that I don't have a few thousand burning a hole in my pocket that I believe that if I am going to do something, I should do it right or save up till I can afford to do it right. This is because I am cheap. I am too cheap to have to pay for a redo when an upgrade of my plans would have sufficed.
I've got a good 305 cam i've been trying to get rid of. it's a crane energizer. lift is 454/454, and the duration is 216/216, the lifters came with the cam. I've also got heavier springs but that would be extra. this wont require any tuning on the comp.no matter what anyone says even though this is a small cam it will help out tremendously. the cam that came in those cars sucked.
email me if you're interested.
cowboyup511@aol.com
Derrick
email me if you're interested.
cowboyup511@aol.com
Derrick
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