Aftermarket Rear End
#1
Aftermarket Rear End
I know you can buy a whole aftermarket axle for quite a bit but personally I would rather just get a old GM 12 bolt and modify it little by little. I don't need one just yet but I will very soon. I know the size of the rear end in there right now and so I was going to either have the ones on their cut or order some pro race ones to put on there. Either way, what all needs to be done to make it last through ltos of power. I am putting a 454 in it.
#3
that's pretty much what I have come up with so far. It's just that I don't have around $1000+ laying around to go blow. Thats why I assume to do it slowly but make sure it is all done right
#4
Not trying to discourage you, but you may be better off to build up a stash to buy the pre-assembled unit instead of slowly building one. Just my .02, I'd hate to see you have a problem down the road
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James D Montigny
1992 Pontiac Firebird 5.0
Bone Stock Officer, I Swear !
The members of this board are enthusiasts, not experts.
Please consider everything that you read an opinion.
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James D Montigny
1992 Pontiac Firebird 5.0
Bone Stock Officer, I Swear !
The members of this board are enthusiasts, not experts.
Please consider everything that you read an opinion.
#5
I ran a beefed up 10 bolt for a couple of years with no problems. I only went to a 9" because I changed my tranny to a TH400 with a transbrake and 5700 stall converter. I didn't think the 10 bolt would have taken more than one hit from the transbrake.
Just buy the housing and axle kit. Buy gears and a carrier later.
The trouble you'll have in using an "old" 12 bolt is first, finding one that will fit. About the only 12 bolt narrow enough to fit under a third gen is out of a first gen. Truck 12 bolts are wide and are not the same as a car 12 bolt. The second thing is finding a way to attach the torque arm. Without spending the money to change the rear suspension to ladder bars or a 4-link, there's no way to attach the torque arm onto the old housing. The center section of a 12 bolt is cast iron. You need to find some way to weld a mount onto the cast iron so that the torque arm can attach to it. By the time you're done fabricating it would just be cheaper to buy an aftermarket housing.
If you feel you're going to produce enough power that you need a 9" or 12 bolt then don't cut corners trying to save money. Do it right the first time. Even putting in a 7.75" 9 bolt is usually strong enough.
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Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car
87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.589
Best MPH on a time slip: 116
Best corrected ET: 11.079
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 468
Best 60 foot: 1.617
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
Just buy the housing and axle kit. Buy gears and a carrier later.
The trouble you'll have in using an "old" 12 bolt is first, finding one that will fit. About the only 12 bolt narrow enough to fit under a third gen is out of a first gen. Truck 12 bolts are wide and are not the same as a car 12 bolt. The second thing is finding a way to attach the torque arm. Without spending the money to change the rear suspension to ladder bars or a 4-link, there's no way to attach the torque arm onto the old housing. The center section of a 12 bolt is cast iron. You need to find some way to weld a mount onto the cast iron so that the torque arm can attach to it. By the time you're done fabricating it would just be cheaper to buy an aftermarket housing.
If you feel you're going to produce enough power that you need a 9" or 12 bolt then don't cut corners trying to save money. Do it right the first time. Even putting in a 7.75" 9 bolt is usually strong enough.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
or check out the race car
87 IROC SuperPro race car
461 big block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.589
Best MPH on a time slip: 116
Best corrected ET: 11.079
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 468
Best 60 foot: 1.617
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
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