i was just wondering what would be a ballpark price range to convert my auto 92 rs to a 5 speed. or if anyone has any suggestions if they have done it before. any input would be great, thanks

 

I have recently done a 700r4 to a T5 with a friend and myself doing all the work. I took us 2 days to do everything. It works fine, but he didn't really mark some areas to the percise mark. We only bought a new clutch and slave cyclinder for the conversion. I had all the other parts to put in it. If you have any questions about it e-mail me Z28IrocCamaro@aol.com Goodluck with it. Take your time doing it.

 

You will need:

Flywheel + bolts
Clutch kit + pressure plate bolts
Bellhousing
T5
T5 shifter
T5 cross member (not sure how different the 700 one is)
Clutch linkage (hydraulic)
Manual car pedals
Plus all the electronics that might be assosicated with your swap

Your driveshaft will work fine. The swap is pretty easy. However, T5s are super weak, if your car makes any kind of power, you will hurt it eventually. I broke 5 so far, went to th350. Kinda of a reverse swap of what you need.

 

Cross member is the same, I am using my A4's cross member. Also, besure the T5 has the torque arm mount, the A4's will not bolt up to it (found out the hard way ).

 

If the T5 does not have a T/A mount, I have a T5 tailshaft with one, and you can always find one reasonably cheap. You will also need a V8 GM T5 (in which case I think they all have T/A mounts). If you get a V6 T5, then you will need to use a V8 PP and a V6 clutch disk, BUT, those are even WEAKER then the V8 ones, so avoid! Good luck.

 

my car is only a tbi 305 so i would hope the t5 wouldnt have any trouble handeling the "power"

 

My car was a tbi 305 as well.

 

The only hard part of this swap is mounting the clutch master cylinder. Getting the hole in the right spot is a pain in the ***.

I also can't stress enough to make sure that you've got all the parts you need ahead of time, right down to the nuts and bolts. This swap took me almost 3 months because I bought everything used, and found out 1 piece at a time that half of the stuff was broken or missing, not to mention at least 20 separate bolt-runs to the parts store.

In terms of electrical wiring, there's only a couple small things that you need to do. To wire the neutral safety switch, just run a pair of adequate-gauge wires from the switch on the clutch pedal bracket to the center console where your automatic shifter wire harness is. 2 of the wires in that harness (I forget which two off-hand but I do know that they're right next to each other - I think it's the purple and yellow ones) are for the park-safety switch on the auto shifter, which serves the same purpose. You can wire the neutral safety switch directly to that. I ground down some male quick-connects that plugged into the harness instead of chopping up the harness. I wanted to make sure I could easily return to an automatic if I ever needed to.

The only other 2 wires you need to deal with is the reverse wires. There's a switch on the driver side of the transmission. I bought the appropriate plug from a local parts store and ran the wire through the hole that the automatic shifter cable used to pass through. Just like with the neutral safety switch, I used filed-down male quick connect terminals to plug directly into the stock auto shifter harness.