mnorwood

I sorta hate starting the thread, but a search didn't turn up the info...

I'm starting to shop for a 3rd gen. I may be interested in putting in a newer engine if I came across a decent car with a blown motor.

From a cost stand point, would it be wiser to buy a car with a blown motor, and put in a LS1 or LT1, or buy one with a decent motor (5.0 or 5.7) and mod it to perform about the same as a LS1 or LT1? Assume a car with a blown motor is $3500 less than a car with a good motor.

If this has been answered, please point me to the thread.

Blown350ZZ4

I bought my 86 Z28 when I was 16 years old. I dropped my ZZ4 engine in it when i was 20. The engine swap was very easy and not too expensive. The whole project cost me almost $5,000 with engine, carb, exhaust, and odds and ends. I am very happy with the ZZ4 engine. The only problem is that later on, you may want to supercharge/turbo the engine and maybe throw an intercooler in it. The engine isnt' really made for forced induction because of the stock compression (10.0 : 1), and it is carbuerated. If you want to just throw in an engine and keep it simple, I would definetly recomend a third gen with a blown engine and replacing it with specifically the ZZ4. If you have bigger plans..... Go with a fuel injected engine so future mods (forced induction, air cooling) after that won't be such a hastle. I threw a weiand 144 CID supercharger on my ZZ4 and even that is pushing it. Because the engine is carbuerated, I dont' really have a way of cooling the air so I have a much more dense mixture.

You can also consider N20, but I am not really into that, so ask someone else who knows better then I do.

Hope this helps

Nick

dj haf

get the 3rd gen with the blown engine. then look in the bargan trader for a nice 383 lt1 or something rather. i've read about what a pain in the *** it is to intall LS1's in 3rd gens... but i really can't remember why think it had something to do with the fuel rails? not sure, but what you could also do is go to a junk yard and find yourself an LT1 with a T-56 tranny still attached to it and put that right in your car. i've heard it's a bitch to install though so i wouldn't do it myself... i'd let someone professionaly do it. i knew a dude (next door neighbor) selling a 396 LT4 he built for 4 grand ... perfect condition, pushing 500+ to the wheels or something ridiculous like that... im sure if you look around you'll find a deal that's too good to pass up.

this is my only question to you. if you buy the car with the blown motor, how much money would you have for a new engine?

aklim

I'll bite. Why are you trying to stuff an LT1 in it? You would have to change ECM, harness and what not. It would be easier to start with a TPI and put better intakes and heads and a stroker.

JJEXP

How far from long island are you? There's a lady there with an 85 z28 with a 305 in it. SHe just dropped her price down to 500. Motor runs good, just needs a drivers side door and a winshield ( hairline crack). Lemme know, and i'll send you her number

mnorwood

I guess what I'm looking for is the performance of the newer engines, but not a used stroker that's been beat on or built with cheap parts. Which is why I'm thinking either mod the existing, or swap with a newer one.

No particular reason for the LT1. I'd like to keep it smog legal if possible, and minimize issues with re-programming the computer because there aren't many places around here that do that kind of stuff. When I move back to the backwoods of Maine, there won't be anybody at all to do that kind of stuff unless I drive 4 hours, and I don't have any experience with it. Putting on new brake pads is the limit of my skills. Which is why I thought of the newer engines.

If a stroker and better heads will get me there and cost less, then that's the way I'd go.

aklim

I am not clear on this. Either way you go, you will have to have the EPROM reprogrammed whether it is an LT1 or L98. With an LT1, you will have more work to do but still have to reprogram. I got my EPROM from www.fasterproms.com and never had to leave my house. I told them what mods were being made and they burnt a chip for me according to the specs. When it was installed, I took some WOT, Idle, etc readings and sent it to them and they sent me another chip. Took more readings and they sent me yet another chip. When it was said and done, I would send them a check and the 2 old chips and that was that. I love the way my car runs now.

The LT1 has the advantage of having better intakes than the L98 and (not sure how good it is) reverse cooling. If you were to change the intake to say a Superram one or Miniram (closer to the LT1), you might find that displacement is displacement and neither really has a significant advantage, power wise.

mnorwood

Hmmm...I didn't consider exaust system changes, etc. and was thinking of swapping motor and computer together.

That's a good point, and I guess one more argument for a stroker and heads. Thanks, guys.

mnorwood

Well, my plan is to sell the car I'm driving now and buy the Camaro and have work done while my wife and I share a car. She works nights so it should work out OK. Basically, about $9000 all together, with a shop doing the work.

Blown350ZZ4

hey mnorwood.... Where in Ct are you??

I am in oxford

Nick

dj haf

aklim, what did you use to take readings of your car so you could give the information to fasterproms.com for your custom prom? and how much was it? thanks dude

steve10358

This is what I think.

1. Skip the LT1/LS1 thing unless you just really have to mix old and new.
2. The whole point of buying a new motor is to go fast.
3. Therefore- the SBC world is WAY bigger than the LT1/LS1 world- parts are cheaper and you can make things go pretty quick with the right parts.



Steve

Black6SpdTA

You said you wanted to stay smog legal? If not, and you want LT1 performance but not swapping wiring harness/ecm/etc I'd do a stroked L98 with LT1 intake. I haven't discussed this yet with anyone, maybe someone can shine some light, but I imagine an L98 w/ LT1 intake would be almost identical to a standard LT1 (except for reverse cooling).

If smog legal do the SupperRam, AFR's. That'll get you moving. Especially with a 3.75" crank Good luck let us know what you decide on.

-Rippin

aklim

I used a laptop and the software and cables they lent me. I believe the program is called Diacom.