was just wondering what the guys with stroker motors are using in terms of cams? What is your power band like and how do you find that your whole setup ie cam heads intake works.

 

I kinda think your looking at this in the wrong light. Your powerband is what you make it. Depending on the choices in heads, Cam, intake, and so on. Any one motor has a plethera of RPM ranges.

You need to decide what YOU would like your powerband to be, and then make choices to get yourself there.

 

oh i know exactly what i want....im looking at the afr 195 cc street heads with a tpis mini-ram intake and havent decided on what i want to do for a cam....this will put my power in the range of 2000-6500....i plan to slap all of this on a 383 the only problem being i have no money so i was just wondering what everyone else is running.

 

Oh

Well if it interests you Im building a 406 with MoTown 220 heads a Team G intake, herbert Roller Cam with a range of 4000-7000 I think I cant recall the numbers Ill look em up later and edit this.

But I dont drive my 3rd gen anymore this will be a track only motor. I dont really believe in street/strip set-ups go one way or the other.

 

and for those of us with money burning holes in our pockets building 5 cars is a great idea. You could have a circle track car, a road race car, a strip car, a daily driver, and a weekend cruiser. Now for those of us are 16, make 7 bucks an hour at stupid national sports, and have 500 bucks in their bank account because they just shelled all of their money out for an iroc with and engine that might need a complete rebuild, as attractive as it may seem building a few different cars is going to have to come after i get the one i have running.

Also some day im going to make someone on this board explain cams to me (in retrospect how does right now sound). I read the tech article at thirdgen.org that is opinion..what everyone should know or something stupid like that but theres too much it doesnt explain....

"Duration is directly responsible for what rpm the power peak falls at,there is a decent,but simple way of figuring out where that peak will occur.You look at the 0.050" duration (degrees),a good rule of thumb is(with a 350ci motor),220deg will peak at 5500rpm,210deg at 5000rpm,200 at 4500rpm(stock 350 cams),230deg at 6000rpm...etc"

How do i convert that to something useable for all engines and not just 350's???? and what is it that theyre measuring in degrees

As for lift i just dont understand it....what exactly is .050? how high do they lift to and obviously go right down to 0.00 (i think).

Heres a link to the article click me because i dont get it...

 

What is expressed in degrees is how long it holds the vavle open I believe. Lift I would think is how far the cam opens the valve. .050 is just a common point to measure cam duration so they can be uniformly compared.

Im just getting this down too. I bought a few SBC ooks namely Linginfelters to explain it to me.

And Im really only interested in Drag Racing at this point. Im only 19 and work part time too. I just dedicate myself to my cars. I dont keep F/fs around. As much for not needing drama as keeping cash. I just set aside $100 and go to Deja Vu once in a while to settle the "urges". I have to make sacrifices aure, but it works

 

fair enough..... i think part of my problem is ive never seen the inside of an engine in real life so i dont even know what half of this stuff looks like....I think i will probably make my way soon to the book store (and by that i mean chapters.ca because im way too lazy to go all the way to the book store) and find something that explains it better i just i really wish all of this stuff ment something to me so i knew wtf was going on. Also flow numbers mean jack to me (i get the basic idea but you could tell me oh this flows this amount isnt that cool and id look at you like a deer caught in headlights). Oh well in time....if i have to do an engine rebuild i might decide to do it all my self and that would be one hell of a steep learning curve....and thats where you guys come in =)

So anyone with explanations please feel to chime in also really interested in different combos people have and how theyre working for them

 

Get a Summit magazine, they have a page that just has literature on cars. If you go to a bookstore they will probably have to order what you want anyway.

 

darth and everyone else not sure if youve read this article on chevyhiperformance.com click me ....its about cams and just explained a bunch of stuff to me....stuff you may already know but id check it out.

 

You will want a cam with around 112* of LSA to compliment your miniram, somewhere around 236/240* @.050 duration, and probably around .530/.550 in the lift department (it will vary by cam, more is better ).

 

I was looking at a cam by lunati thats specs are
part# 50162
@.050 242/252
1.5:1 lift .525/.540
1.6:1 lift.560/.576
lobe separation 108deg

That seemed like a pretty suitable cam for my car its a little more extreme but seems like it would be better suited to my power range??? Although id probably like something along that exact line just with a 112 degree sep. because 108 is a little extreme for being a daily driver half the year and would kill too much of my torque. The fact that my ecm would not be happy below 112 can be changed because i plan on learning on how to do my own chip burning this winter. I also wouldnt put doing a custom grind out of the picture because id rather do this right. The other question being is i find out whats wrong with the car hopefully tommorow. If its engine related id be willing to bet its something in the rotating assembly. If it is then ill have to tear the whole thing apart and i would do my performance rebuild now because im not replacing the stock parts if i have to do all that work. My question is due to my very limited budget would i be able to buy a 383 short block and bolt it up to my stock heads, cam, intake. If i could that would be awesome because then i could have my 383 with a very good base to it and a ton more potential, do my transmission and rear end over the winter so i dont have to worry about those blowing on me.....and then when i have the money do a cam, heads, intake swap and have a monster engine. Anyone see any problems in my plan and also comments on that cam i was looking at.

 

If its a daily driver you will want a 112 or 110 LSA. With tighter LSA's like 108,106, etc, you will be losing a lot your fuel through the exhaust because of the lobe overlap. To be honest, a lighter LSA actually brings the torque in quicker, more explosively. Wider LSA's (112,114 etc) tend to be more peaky.

 

Yeah i understand what your saying i got it backwards in my head as to wether increasing or decreasing does what but it makes a bunch more sense though. Yeah im thinking id want something around 112 lsa especially because i have a funny feeling im going to find my self doing a lot of auto-x and not a ton of open road racing so i really need the torque and im not going to spend a ton of time at high speed not to mention i dont really feel like totally anihalating (ooo big words dont get spelled right at 3 am) my gas mileage. Assuming it was a 112 lsa what do you guys think of the cam selection. I know when you increase duration you increase your lsa (obviously) so is it even possible to have a cam that has those sorts of durations with 112 lsa? i would like as many opinions as possible. More extreme? Less extreme? or bang on!

 

Yes it is very possible to have a cam ground on a 112 LSA with those specs. But you have it backwards, the lower the number the more explosive and less peaky the torque curve is. For example a 108 LSA would have a more explosive power band than say a 112 LSA.

 

Here is a good example cam I found you from crower:
114* LSA, 230/236* duration @.050, .545/.555 lift w/ 1.5 rockers. I would want a 112* LSA, but this cam just goes to show you that it is possible.