buncha questions, plz help me out!

i went to go check our a car a guys is parting out.. 3rd gen berlinetta.. he says it has a 350 K block in it (removed from a 1979 truck). he says k blocks were the strongest and have forged steel cranks, this true? and are they 4 bolt mains?

he took me out for a spin.. didn't reallly seem faster than my car, but is that because he has a 3spd auto and mine is a 5spd w/ a 305?

he is also sellin his 4 chrome rims with rubber for $275 cdn.. the fronts are 215s and the backks are 295! .. but it doesnt seem to rub, is that because of the rim? cause i was told if i put them on my rims i would get insane 'rubbage'.. stock 4/5 spoke z28/iroc rims (what i got).. the back tires got alota meet on them, and they are so ****in fatty..

the motor itself looks like its in decent shape, burns oil.. but needs a rebuild, compression is 150 to 135.. be nice to know how many rebuilds were done on it.

so what is your guys opinion?

is it worth getting the motor and building it up?

thanks for the help,

smokey

 

Sorry, I don't know anything about a K motor. What I do know is it would be nice to own a block with a steel crank. So if it does have a steel crank it would definently be worth rebuilding. Just because it is built strong with a good crank doesn't mean it's gonna be faster. It just means it will be stronger for use in a truck. You have to make it more powerful with the right heads and cam. Good luck

 

anyone know anything about a k block?

so wouldnt it make sence to come with a 4bolt main if it was in a truck, espically if it has a forged crank?

need some answers for my first post above

thanks

 

I'm not totally sure, but I believe that all chevy truck motors are 4-bolt mains. Again, I'm not sure.

If there is a steel crank in there, it definetly should be a 4-bolt main.

 

K block
Sorry, no forged steel cranks in 1979, I believe they all stopped in 1971ish?..
Yes all Chevy Truck motors casting '010's were 4-bolt mains.
It don't make it faster tho.
Burning oil maybe you better pass on this one. I would personally buy a 1987-up block, from a car strickly for the provisions for the "roller-cam"including the roller lifters($250value!). It would be A LOT more expensive to retrofit. And you can usually get one for the same price as the older ones.

 

I believe you can get a roller block that is a 4 bolt main. That or there are some caps that you can install that make it a 4 bolt splayed.

Buying that engine is a joke. You don't know about the overbore unless you take the heads off and measure it. If you were at 0.030 right now, I would not recommend going to 0.060 for a perfomance application. Besides, you need the block apart to check for core shift.

 

You don't need a four bolt block anyways. Seriouly, if you were to build an engine right now how much power do you think you would make? 275 - 300 horse? Two bolt mains will take that amount of power, if your that worried about it, stud the mains.

I am going to agree with 90rocz, just find a 350 roller block.

Oh and the "K block" is a figment of his imagination. The good blocks have 010 020 cast in the block under the timing cover, but they won't make you any magical horsepower. It is like the dumbsh!ts that think they have something special when their big block Chevy has Hi Perf written on it. All passenger car BBC's have that. It just designates it as a short deck block.

Martin

 

well if its burning oil, cant it be just because the rings are bad? i am going to REBUILD the motor anyways... get new cam, lifters, etc

i found a site somewhere and it said the motor was a forged steel crank between xxxx year and xxxx year.. i forget

 

It could be bad rings or bad seals. However, like I asked, how do you know such an old block hasn't been bored over already?

Also, aren't there any cheap roller blocks where you are? That old a block means you will have a 2 piece rear main seal (there was a reason they went to a 1 piece) and no roller cam. Retrofit kits are expensive.