On a budget, without nitrous, what would be better....rebuilt L98 or a used LT1? what would be easier/less expensive to get 300RWHP out of without nitrous?
Thanks,
-Chris
(BTW I'm possibly buying a friends 88 trans am 305 5 speed, so it may be soon that i start putting all my research to work!)

 

I really don't know what it takes to get 300 from a L98 but it is pretty simple from an LT1.

I got 291hp/319tq from 1 3/4" SLP shorties, CSI water pump, mandrel 3" exhaust, Flowmaster, Moroso CAI. I picked up 4-5 mph in the 1/4 with Crane gold rrs so I know I am making over 300 at the wheels now. I bought this stuff new so keep that in mind. You can get it for a lot cheaper if you look around.

 

The LT1 will hit 300hp far more easily than the L98 will. I love my L98, but LT1's have better heads from the factory, and a intake that flows a crap load more.

In order to hit 300rwhp from an L98 you'd need a ported plenum, good aftermarket runners with a 1.66" minimum ID, aftermarket base(ported to hell), cam, ported heads(or aftermarket), headers, and full exhaust.

Its mostly the intake and heads that gives the Lt1 such and advantage. John millican has a few dyno sheets of a converted LT1 intake on a cammed L98 making 300rwhp through headers. The heads are stock, but the cam was changed to a LT4 hot-cam.

My combo with some GOOD aftermarket heads like AFR's would probably pump out over 300rwhp if I could feed it enough fuel.

 

ok....so if i swapped an LT1, w/ ported stock heads, a cam to match the heads, headers, exhaust, CAI, i'd be above 300 RWHP?

 

Yes, it wouldn't be very hard to have an LT1 hit 300rwhp. Bolt on's should probably do it.

Long tubes on an Lt1 are said to give about 45 to 50hp.

Think about this. With everything I have listed in my signature, my car MAY produce about 280rwhp at the most, and thats supposed to be with a good tune. Now, my torque on the otherhand will be at LEAST 350lb/ft at the wheels.

L98 = pavement shredding torque, but not alot of horsepower.

 

An LT1 will do it very easy, just do the simple bolt on's and your already there and a little over. You can home port your heads/intake and get a nice tune and you'll be VERY happy!!

 

i'm kinda in the same dilema, but i don't have a regular L98, i got the one with the aluminum heads out of a vette, and I heard my heads out flow the LT1 heads...i was thinkign of swapping it out for a LT1 this winter if my dad allows me too, but i'm wondering if I should just get the stealth ram intake because thats better than the Lt1 intake and my heads are better than the Lt1 heads...what do you guys think I should do? I don't wanna swap it out for a Lt1 and sit there wondering why I spent all the money when I could've just modified my L98....what do you guys think i should do??? Keep it or swap it??

 

I also forgot, how do you home port your heads and intake??

 

An lt1 will hit 370-425 with decent heads and cam package.

Rich

 

The L98 aluminum 113 heads do NOT outflow the Lt1 heads. The aluminum heads barely flow better than their iron L98 counterparts.

About 185 on the intake, and about 120 on the exhaust.

 

I love my very lightly modded LT1.

My numbers are a result of what I have in the sig.... (which affect horsepower obviously )

 

You do realize that with the LT1 swap comes the screwing with a totally new harness, don't you? It will not just bolt up and work. I would suggest getting a better intake and cam and or heads.

 

yes, i know that the wireing is completly different....but i could just buy a new kit from painless or something, right?

 

Yes you can. You can buy a painless harness that will swap right over. I beleive you have to wire the ECM for power, and one other thing, but thats it.

Even so, thirdgen.org has a whole sticky devoted to swapping a LT1 into a thirdgen.

 

yeah but my plan is not only the LT1 swap, but v6 to v8 swap as well......lol