?

there is no bleader screw or anything

i don't understand

thanks
robbie

 

Basically all you can really do is uncap the MC reservoir and pump the pedal. That should force any air in the lines out.

 

Werd,

It is self bleeding.

 

Hey folks,
I am out of town and my clutch stopped working...
I checked the MC fluid reservoir and it was empty. (what luck eh!)
Anyway, just wanted to confirm if the above is the correct way to bleed system.
I thought the bleed screw on drivers side of tranny had to be opened...
Anyway any help would be appreciated. (I picked up some DOT 3 brake fluid but don't have many tools where I am visiting)
Kris

 

There aren't any bleed screws on a 96 T56 hydraulic setup.

 

Read how to do it here - clutch_bleeding.htm

 

Thanks for the info folks!

Update (and story for those that are interested):
After further investigation it was found that the Clutch Master Cylinder had failed. But....
I found that if I pumped clutch rapidly I could get about a half second of "pedal" enough to ease shifts between gears (of course RPM matching worked as well)
Anyway, upon inquring to get it fixed where I was, they did not have the part available from any dealer in town and said it would be at least a day!!! . I could not afford to hang around so my uncle and I decided to try and hobble my baby home (about 200 km/120 miles). In case this happens to you I thought I would share what I learned. Getting started is the tricky part.

Method 1) With Car not moving and engine off, put shifter into first gear, start engine (remember, even though clutch pedal does not work you still need to depress to start). The starter turns over engine and because you are in first the cars starts moving car forward. It was not pretty way to start, but it worked. I did not like this method and only used it once.

Method 2) With Car stopped, Start engine with shifter in Neutral. Have some once start pushing from behind. When up to 5 mph or so push shifter into first gear (NOTE: if person pushing needs to come with you I recomend letting them get in car BEFORE you attemp to put shifter into first. This method worked farily well. (requires strong and agile helper!)

Method 3) Not sure why or how this worked but with car idling (and not moving) and shifter in Neutral press shifter into first (but not so hard it actually goes into first) this caused the car to very slowly start creeping forward. After about 5 or 10 seconds you would be going fast enough (i.e. 5mph or so) to now force shifter into first. I used this when alone when failure first occured.

Method 4) I did not use this method but was ready to use it if I had to (i.e. if I was forced to stop on a hill) This method will only work if you find you can get some "clutch action" by pumping the pedal as I could. In Neutral, Rev engine to 2000 rpm or so ...or whatever RPM you like to launch at ! :-) and hold rpm there, then pump clutch until you feel you have pedal, then put shifter in first and hang on!

I was able to make it home home ok (fortunately it was mostly highway).

Clutch Master Cylinder has now been replace and I am back in action.

End of story.

 

For reference, this is what the service manual says about how to bleed the clutch hydraulic system:

Clean clutch master cylinder cap area so no dirt can enter the system.

Remove the reservoir cap and diaphragm.

If you are leaving the master cylinder in the car, use a wire or something hung from the LH hood strut bracket down toward the slave cylinder.

Remove the slave cylinder and use the wire you hung to support it.

Go back up top and get hold of the slave cylinder. Press the pushrod in ~20mm (0.787in) and hold it. Keep slave cylinder lower than the master cylinder.

Install diaphragm and reservior cap while holding the pushrod in.

Release pushrod and hold slave cylinder vertically with the pushrod end facing down.

Press pushrod in using short 10mm (0.390in) strokes.

Check the master cylinder for air bubbles and continue until there are none.

Reconnect slave and check reservoir for proper fluid level.