heat-cycling tires? HUH?

[teke184]

read a few mentionings of heat cycling a tire? what is it...kind of a break-in for rubber?
is heat cycling good? bad? normal...
i basically drive on a straight road about 3 miles to work and back...and bout once every two weeks go on some twisty roads...how will this "heat cycling" affect my wheels

oh and i for reference.. i just bought 4 SZ50 ep's...waiting for delivery that is...going on next week...

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ARREST-ME RED 96 Z-28, M6...stock for now...but i've only had it three days...1st mod on day 4! TB airfoil...NOW...G2 CAI(modified), K&N, MagnaFlow w/ cutout(closed of course), maf ends, ?cags?, UD pulley, TB bypass, 160stat, SLP fan switch, SLP air temp module, Hypertech PTM, MSD 6A, Hurst(SS donation) with a Lou's SStick and Proform Shiftlight, BMR lca, phb and stb, 32/21mm sway bars w/ poly bushings and endlinks, ES poly TA mount, air silencer???

Waiting to go on: 1LE springs, SLP afpr

For Sale: stock exhaust+ sq. tips, 30/19mm sway bars w/ stock bushings

[CARGASM]

Heat cycling is basically the process of getting the tires warmed up with minimal abuse then letting them cool. This process makes a race tire last longer and seems to give it more even wear.

When I get new race tires, I use them for a practice session then switch back to the old ones for the race. I let the new tires sit on their sides till the next race. Doing this seems to make my hoosiers last a long time.

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'94 Z/28 Medium Blue w/graphite leather,Auto,T-tops, tint, '68 emblems, chrome SS wheels, G2CAI, K&N, crank pulley, Airfoil, Borla, MSD ignition and coil, Taylor wires, Random Tech cat., LT4KM, Transgo, 2800 stall P.I., trans cooler, MAC headers, spohn torque arm, 275 Nittos. !cat, black valance w/reflective blue letters, 1LE sways, etc, etc.


www.community.webshots.com/user/admalmquist

[sgarnett]

I don't know if heat cycling does any good for a street tire or not, but it cant hurt. It's mainly for racing compound tires.

The idea (as mentioned above) is that you bring the tires up to normal temperature without abusing them, then let them "cure" unused for about 24~48 hours, preferably with no load (off the car). During the first use some of the weaker bonds in the rubber break, then as the tire cures the bonds reform but stronger then before.

Taking them off the car is probably overkill for a street tire (I didn't), but brand new tires ARE slippery due to the mold release agent in the rubber on the surface. It's not a good idea to take those first few turns very hard

After you get the new tires on, check the pressure - there's a very good chance the shop will overinflate them, which can make the rear end treacherous on a Camaro. Start with 38f/30r cold. Then drive it for several miles on the highway to scuff off the mold release and sticker gum and warm them up, then drive "briskly" but smoothly through some twisties (not at the limit, but not a Sunday drive). Then take it home and park it. If you can leave it for 24 hours, great. If not, just be very gentle the next day.

Like I said, it may not make any difference on street tires, but it can't hurt, and the tread definitely needs a little breakin scuffing anyway before you'll get full traction.

[V6Bob]

Really only applies to serious track race tires with very soft rubber. Street car manufacturers try to manufacture tires that don't care how many heat cycles they've been through.

And heat cycles can improve performance or just slow the tire down. When they're good for a particular situation, people use "scuffs", tires that have gone through a heat cycle or two. When not they use "stickers", brand new tires with the labels still on.

Most everyone uses stickers for qualifying, they're faster if you're not going many laps.

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2000 Firebird convert, chameleon/tan, M5, Y87, TCS
KBDDs, BMR STB and Panhard, 245/50-16 GSCs