Looking for an f-body tuner
#1
Looking for an f-body tuner
I am looking for a good shop or somone with dyno access. I need to have my car logged to see exactly what is going on. Should I take it to a shop around boston? anyone know any good places?
#2
Any details on the issues you are having? I can help with the tune and datalogging. Its been awhile since I used tunercat, but I can remember once I get the laptop fired up.
#3
just ignition issues sometimes and it throws a code right after it stumbles and before the cooling fans come on. it is not a voltage issue with the whole system and I would love to see some kind of graph that shows a spike at a certain point somwhere. The car is running ok right now but this is what I am showing...
Last night it was bucking and doing weird **** in the humid weather. I double checked all vaccume seals and msd/coil connections. spaced my ign. module off the header with 3 washers and it is running more consistant now. just still throwing a light and stumbling before the fans come on. then most of the time the light goes out and the car drives fine for the most part. still hearing fuel popping in the exhaust but much more consistant and smooth then it used to be with no tune and my a4. I'm going to get a new fuel filter, fill my tank and get some injector cleaner in there. the car sat for over 3 years and it is just coming back ot life. my engine bay is very clean and wires are run nicely. my electrical connections are perfectly clean and grounds are good. no rust anywhere on engine (just k member and suspension and some on brake lines) My starter is high torque with nice new wires going to it. Stock fuel pump. my fuel pressure is dead on accurate with an adj. fpr. plugs are ngk and have less then 10k on them. I just ran custom length over the cover wires and they dont even get close to touching now, I reseated the ends at the opti and made sure they clicked. I know i bent the wires trying ot get them in the boots while fabricating them but it shouldn't affect them. The car is running consistant and if it was a consistant bad wire then it would be all the time and it is almost never now. I am thinking my opti is on it's way out and ym injectors are dirty/fuel pump is getting old too.....
Trouble Codes: 16 44 64 91 83 84
Sensors
050
MAF 02
Sp 21
Rp 1.5
lbl 160
rbl 160
cel 16
lin 128
rin 128
d2l 035
d2r 050
ats 89
clt 168
tps .80
r 800
iac 22
bat 13.1
map 12.6
bar 30.4
acp .26
ccp 00
My car is a 1995 silver z-28 with a stock bottom and top end. 58 MM throttle body, ported stock MAF, Pcmforless programming for premium gas, 3.73 gears, 18 inch rear wheels, aluminum d.s., spohn adj. torque arm, all solid rear suspension, bilstein shocks, shorty headers with y pipe leading to one large single cat, one electronic cutout, magnaflow stainless exhaust welded together mostly, not clamped. lt4 knock module, t-56 transmission rebuilt professionally extra strong (thanks kyle!) mcleod dual friction clutch with steel flywheel, deleted egr/air, fan temps lowered, hope this covers mostly all that is needed.
16 is a distributor ignition system (low resolution pulse) error and no one has been able to tell me what that means. I am fearing dead opti or opti about to go.....
64 and 44 are elan o.s. condition and the other codes are for lamps for manual things that don't matter (I converted from 4l60e)
Any insight? Where are you located. I am in dedham, MA
Last night it was bucking and doing weird **** in the humid weather. I double checked all vaccume seals and msd/coil connections. spaced my ign. module off the header with 3 washers and it is running more consistant now. just still throwing a light and stumbling before the fans come on. then most of the time the light goes out and the car drives fine for the most part. still hearing fuel popping in the exhaust but much more consistant and smooth then it used to be with no tune and my a4. I'm going to get a new fuel filter, fill my tank and get some injector cleaner in there. the car sat for over 3 years and it is just coming back ot life. my engine bay is very clean and wires are run nicely. my electrical connections are perfectly clean and grounds are good. no rust anywhere on engine (just k member and suspension and some on brake lines) My starter is high torque with nice new wires going to it. Stock fuel pump. my fuel pressure is dead on accurate with an adj. fpr. plugs are ngk and have less then 10k on them. I just ran custom length over the cover wires and they dont even get close to touching now, I reseated the ends at the opti and made sure they clicked. I know i bent the wires trying ot get them in the boots while fabricating them but it shouldn't affect them. The car is running consistant and if it was a consistant bad wire then it would be all the time and it is almost never now. I am thinking my opti is on it's way out and ym injectors are dirty/fuel pump is getting old too.....
Trouble Codes: 16 44 64 91 83 84
Sensors
050
MAF 02
Sp 21
Rp 1.5
lbl 160
rbl 160
cel 16
lin 128
rin 128
d2l 035
d2r 050
ats 89
clt 168
tps .80
r 800
iac 22
bat 13.1
map 12.6
bar 30.4
acp .26
ccp 00
My car is a 1995 silver z-28 with a stock bottom and top end. 58 MM throttle body, ported stock MAF, Pcmforless programming for premium gas, 3.73 gears, 18 inch rear wheels, aluminum d.s., spohn adj. torque arm, all solid rear suspension, bilstein shocks, shorty headers with y pipe leading to one large single cat, one electronic cutout, magnaflow stainless exhaust welded together mostly, not clamped. lt4 knock module, t-56 transmission rebuilt professionally extra strong (thanks kyle!) mcleod dual friction clutch with steel flywheel, deleted egr/air, fan temps lowered, hope this covers mostly all that is needed.
16 is a distributor ignition system (low resolution pulse) error and no one has been able to tell me what that means. I am fearing dead opti or opti about to go.....
64 and 44 are elan o.s. condition and the other codes are for lamps for manual things that don't matter (I converted from 4l60e)
Any insight? Where are you located. I am in dedham, MA
Last edited by djk19; 08-07-2007 at 01:51 PM.
#5
That isn't far at all. Maybe some time I can drive down there when you have all the stuff set up or whatever... not sure how hard it is or how it works 100%. I am a computer technician and electronics certified but never had a chance to play with this kind of thing. Just lack of personal experience. I can throw you some dough if you want or we can work somthing out. Anyone you know need personal training? ;-P thats what I do. let me know though. it isn't even a big deal or a rush bro. just whenever... I had her running today pretty smooth and the ignition scare I had might be a warning of opti going. Seems like humidity was a factor.
#6
That isn't far at all. Maybe some time I can drive down there when you have all the stuff set up or whatever... not sure how hard it is or how it works 100%. I am a computer technician and electronics certified but never had a chance to play with this kind of thing. Just lack of personal experience. I can throw you some dough if you want or we can work somthing out. Anyone you know need personal training? ;-P thats what I do. let me know though. it isn't even a big deal or a rush bro. just whenever... I had her running today pretty smooth and the ignition scare I had might be a warning of opti going. Seems like humidity was a factor.
Jon
#7
awesome. I definately will. I still have the whole interior out except the two front seats I will be finishing the radio and trying to get the convertible top installed so I can put in the new rug with no leak potential... not worth ruining a nice new black carpet.. I will hit you up when the time is right*
#8
There is a disk in the optispark that has slot thru which light shines into an optical pickup - thus Optispark. The low res pulse gives the pcm a rough idea of the cam position. So to me it sounds like your Opti is going out..... It is the most likely culprit when an LT1 has an intermittent stumble or ignition problem.
#10
I am going to sell my internally balanced with splayed billet mains block to get an ltcc and some other goodies to make her kmore polished off instead of the beast she is now. my 79k 95 engine is running strong and I have a brand new transmission. I am not egtting into heads and cam for quite some time so I wasted 2 grand on an engine a couple years ago that I am going to turn around and sell....
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