I would like to get a lt1 powered 93-97 Z28...what are the problem areas and what should I look for? What kind of maintenance should I check on aswell...Im not sure if this is the right forum section to post this in so if not please move this thread! thanks!

 

The one tip I can give you: Don't buy a 93. Speed Density sucks. It costs so much more to find someone to tune 93.

94-95 are my personal favorites. No second Cat built into the headers. No ODB2. (Both of those things to deal with with the 96-97).

I'm sure others have different opinions and thoughts, but those are mine.

 

Yeah I must agree with the '93 part. I have a '93 and don't get me wrong I love it, but now that I'm doing my heads/cam swap, and trying to find someone to tune it, I'm realizing how much of a hassle it is.

 

I agree with the 94-95. I have a buddy who had a 93 and did a cam swap and could not get it tuned properly. I have a 95 that I am finishing up the rebuild on the engine and have had absolutely no major problems. I found my parts easily and Ion at madtuner will have no problem tuning it. The things I wish I got were (T-Tops and a 6 speed) other than that I am very happy with my car. All I can say is wait till you find the one you want, don't rush into one you are not satisfied with. I waited for two years before I found mine and I have waited another year to drive her again.

 

I would say go with a 95, it's OBD1, has an OBD2 port which is nice, has a vented opti which is very nice. I kinda lucked into mine, year wise, I didn't know the year to year difference or that much about them really, untill after I had bought mine, so you're doing the right thing by trying to know more first.

 

Look under it for oil on the tranny pan, or anywhere for that matter. This engine is known to possilby have a nasty intake manifold oil leak. In the day I'd see new ones with oil leaks on the showroom floor.

If you do wind up with a '97 take it to 80 mph and see if it shimmies. If it does it still has the unbalanced drive shaft. Also, some had 2.73, and others had 3.23 rears with slip difs. Realize to get these cars to handle well you have to change to 1LE swaybars with poly and aftermarket panhard rod. Even when my '97 was new the way it cornered was scary until I swapped the stock stuff out.

 

As with shopping for any used vehicle, there are a number of "generic"
things to look for (when you ask about something, be sure to examine
the part in question yourself to make an assessment):
* tires, shocks, rims, body, interior, all lights (exterior, interior)
* pull the dipstick and look at the oil and pull some off with a
finger and rub it between a couple of fingers (does it feel gritty, etc)
* do the previous if it's an auto tranny.
* ask when the last time the auto-trans filter/fluid was changed
* ask when the last time the manual trans fluid was changed
* ask when the last time the rear-end gear oil was changed
* check the registration and inspection sticker expiration dates.
* check all the body gaskets (window, trunk, etc)
* open all the doors, trunk, hood, and look for signs of repainting.
(I even use a magnet with a strip of tape around it to check
for body damage (bondo/fiberglass)
* ask if the power-window motors have been changed.
* if manual, ask when the last clutch change was (and ask about
the frequency of changes, if they mention more than 1 change)
* start the motor up and check all the gauges
* ask when the last cooling system flush was
* take it for a drive and listen very carefully to odd noises
(never use the radio when test driving). Drive it on local
streets and the highway. Get it in a parking lot and steer
it right and left fully - listen carefully
* if auto, manually shift it through the gears
* ask when the last time the battery was replaced
* ask if the O2 sensors were changed
* get down on your back at the rear, front, and sides and look for
signs of underbody damage - check the shocks, exhaust, look at
the distributor/wires, hoses, look for remnants of cooling system
leaks, and engine oil/transmission fluid leaks.

These are more LT1 based things to check for
* ask when the last time the water pump was changed - it's a
PITA to change
* ask when the last time the distributor cap/rotor were changed
(and the plugs, wires) - it's a PITA to change
* ask if there has been any overheating issues
* if auto, ask if the transmission mount has been changed out
* ask if the fuel pump has been changed out - PITA to change
* if a convertible, ask when the top and rear window have been
changed out - also, roll the top up about halfway and check
the skeleton
* if a t-top, ask if either/both tops have been replaced, and remove
them and check the gaskets. And check the locking mechanism.

At the moment, I can't think of any other LT1-specific stuff to
check for. I prefer the 95 model year, which is what I would
recommend (I have 2 - convertible/auto, t-top/t56).

 

I have no issues with my 93Z... Guess some know how to tune..

 

Not saying I have issues with mine, but there is no shop around me (Orlando) to tune it. I've heard there is a guy in Tampa but have to pay him pretty well, then rent dyno time for him to be able to tune on. Not near as easy to tune as the 94+.

 

95 gets my vote.

 

thanks for all the info!