I know I can't be the only person that wants to know more about your engine and car in general. Any pics? Anywho, some questions I have.

Could/would you post a dyno sheet? I see you have RWHP listed, is that on a dynojet, or other dyno? Did you put it on an engine dyno before installation, and if so, what were the numbers?

What does your car weigh? I'm gonna guess by your 1/4 mile mph and rwhp that its on the light side, say 3400 lbs with driver?

Directly related to that, have you done any weight removal, or is the car full street trim. I know you have stated its a street car, and everyone's interpretation of that is different, but how is it? A/C P/S, cam surge?

Suspension - with the Baer brakes, I would guess you would have a fairly agressive handling package as well. What all do you have done?

Engine - what kind of rotating assembly do you have? Curious what kind of components it takes for the power level you are at? Is it a basic build up with strong components, or do you have a superlight crank and whatnot? Piston coating if any? Any specifics on the block, as far as special things done during machining, or specific RA and RK you aimed for?

On the topend, I know you have mentioned that you have 18* heads that have been changed to 15* heads from a comp eliminator car. What size intake port do they have now, roughly? I think you said they flow around 340 peak, but what about low and mid lift? I take it since these are SB2.2s, they have titanium valves and Jesel shaft rockers? I'll admit, I never was a fan of a SBC motor, so I'm new to this, but is an SB2.2 the same as SBC? If not, what are the differences?

Exhaust - on your headers, was that a necessity out of fitment, exhaust port design/placement, and or merely a solution for a large enough primary? What size primaries does it have, and are they stepped? What kind of true dual exhaust do you have, and how much time was spent designing it? Is it simply 2 pipes, with an x connecting them, or is it tuned length, with merge collectors on the headers, etc.?

Intake - You have a modified LT4 intake, is that optimal for your application, or was it more of a compromise for $$ reasons? Wouldn't a carb style manifold with injector bosses be better, with an aluminum TB elbow?

Tuning - what kind of timing does the motor like? I've heard the more efficient the head, the less timing you can run. I'm not sure how true it is though. If so, I would presume you are running around 32* at WOT. Also, the dyno, was that on 93 octane or higher?

Fuel - what size injectors, and what kind of fuel system do you have in general? Full aeromotive? What kind of BSFC does the motor have, if you know. (I'm sure you do.)

Ok, almost done. If you think of anything else that anyone might want to know, include it! LOL. Last - PICTURES!!!! Post them if you have them!

I reserve the right to ask many more questions, once you answer these!

 

I just find it Ironic that Brain wants info from MindGame

 

No no no, the sb2.2 is a canted valve cylinder head with a 12* valve angle, intake canted 4*, exhaust canted 8*. The 15* starts life as an 18* but is machined by GM to 15* by cutting the deck surface 2* and tipping the valve 1*, hence 15*. The sb2.2 is an all together different animal but will work on any 1st gen smallblock as a "bolt on"..... although I use that term loosely cause there are valvetrain geometry issues with that "swap". Another subject.

I just noticed this thread and it'll be a long response.... I'm spent right now so let me get back to you tomorrow. I have decided that I would like to keep some aspects of the motor to myself but don't mind getting into the other stuff.

Later,
Mg

 

I'm also curious. Seems like an incredible car, and definately out of the ordinary.

 

Ah, see I knew I didn't know anything about SBCs. So, the 18* heads you have, what would they compare to? AFR 225s? Similar but with better valve angle and better flow? Whatever you are willing to share would be great! Thanks!

Brian

 

Okay, I guess a parts list would be kinda boring wouldn't it? Not really much oooh and aaah to the motor as some people might think, I just put the money in the induction system and in places I thought were important to keeping an engine alive on the street. Here's a brief rundown.....

+.030 block, fully machined, 4-bolt (parallel) main caps, arp studs, lifter bores indexed, lifter valley vent tubes, decked to 9.010".

forged lightweight pistons, reverse dish custom machined by PRED to mirror 15* combustion chamber, dfl coated skirts, tb coated crowns. Static comp is ~12.0:1, dynamic ~9.0:1... pump gas friendly

speed pro plasma moly rings, 3/64-3/64-1/16

lightweight C&A wristpins, casidium coated (already in my posession)

4340 manley h-beam rods, ARP L19 bolts

4340 HTC crank, knife edged, some lightening

King alecular bearings & dura bond

howards double roller timing chain

custom billet cam ~244@ .050, ~.600 total valve lift, 110 lsa (cam idles like a well tuned CC306 in a 350)

Isky valvesprings, pushrods, locks, titanium retainers, lash caps

Isky aluminum-top roller lifters, Isky rev-kit

PRED CNC'd GM 15* heads (w/reverse cool conversion), bead-lock ferrea valves (2.125/1.625), serdi competition valve job, ~220 cc intake runners, ~340 cfm intake ~260 cfm exhaust, 46 cc combustion chambers. Intake velocity average 340 f/s, exhaust 320 f/s.

Jesel shafts with lightweight and tail profiled rockers

Herbert rockers were the first buy, but sent them back and went MPD covers with valve spring oilers

Canton oil pan (Stef makes an LT1 pan.... I should have went with Stef's)

ATI balancer assembly

Meziere water pump

Moroso vacuum pump

AS&M monoblade tb

LT4 intake, ported/welded, custom 1-inch adaptor plates(o'ringed) and end rails to mate with 15* head's 10* face angle and higher port location. LT4 intake gains an inch of runner length. Still cheaper than a Hogans, Wilson etc by about a grand.

SS air box won't work... Moroso CAI

TPIS custom MAF

Custom headers, 1.875" diameter primaries w/merge collectors, x-pipe, 3" duals transition to 2.5" right before going over the axle, 2 in 2 out Borla muffler in stock location, double wall stainless tips

Street Twin clutch assy

Pro 5.0 shifter

Moser 9" ford rear w/auburn, aluminum center section, abs intact, 4.11 gears

MW 3" chromoly driveshaft, 1350 series u-joints

Fast EFI w/wideband tuning

MSD ignition

BMR TA, k-member, upper and lower a-arms, adjustable control arms

Hal shocks (f&r) and springs

Baer pro plus brakes..... Alcon 4 piston, slotted (not drilled) rotors, stainless brake lines

SX fuel pump, -10 fuel line

6-point chromoly roll cage

McLeod scattershield on the way

Kinesis wheels... 17x9 & 17x10.5 275/17 and 315/17 drag radials

Paint is titanium silver... same color as used on the Diablo

Black leather interior w/Recaro seats, pillar guages

I'll think of more later......

The ac is no longer in the car and I'm looking at more weight reduction without having to remove the bumper supports and safety stuff (air bags etc). Any ideas there would be great but with me in it, the car weighs 3426 lbs.

Some random answers to your questions....

I left the RA finishes to my engine builder... he knows his stuff.

Dyno numbers are after tuning and are SAE corrected. Dynojet was used. BSFC range .4 - .452.

I would like to put together a website but it's not a priority right now. I honestly don't think too many people are dying for the information I have on this buildup. 99% just want to make 450 rwhp.
Not to mention, I am currently tied up in an anime site building project with my nephew. That or I'm designing security applications... which is what I do for "work". So computer time "for fun" is a commodity I don't have much of...... that is, unless I abandoned this site and a few others to put mine together. Then again, I need the motivation.

I might be taking some random pictures and throwing them up on Webshots or something like that.... I've done that in the past so who knows.

Nothing looks too awful spectacular about my motor besides the heads. I don't believe in billet parts for a high hp n/a street motor, they're overkill. As a matter of fact, I could build a budget ~350... 3.5" forged crank, Scat i-beam rods, lightweight hyper pistons, 215 RR AFR's with stud rockers, a mild solid roller and make 475 rwhp with the stock computer and a 7000 rpm peak... (of course you'd need a raised-port intake and an elbow). It can be done without a ton of cash..... just heads (the big thing), cam and lightweight stuff.

edit: too easy with a 383

-Mindgame

 

Nice set up.I am very envious.I am sure others are as well.

 

Thanks Joe,

I don't post anything to brag, which is why I don't talk about my car in every thread I decide to post in.
Also the reason why I haven't gone through hoops and barrels to post pics and build a website... although I may down the road.

Thanks again.

-Mindgame

 

Just curious where you were shifting on the 137mph 1/4mi run.

With that cam, I wouldn't think it'd be much over 6300-6500, am I close?

Sounds like a great setup.

 

With a 200-220 cc 23* head, yep it'd peak at 6300 or so depending on a few other things. My peak is closer to 6800 rpm and I'm shifting at 7100 rpm and will find out if that's where I really need to be shifting once I get a few more runs in but by my calcs, that's the best shift rpm for me.

-Mindgame

 

Thanks for the details! I understand how busy you are, though with the economy the way it is, thats a good thing too. Curious, what kind of ground clearance do you have with your exhaust and did you have to do any suspension mods to handle the over the axle parts? Did you dyno with and without the 2.5" OTA parts, and if so, did it make a power difference? I learned a lot more by simply browsing some past posts you've made, and found a lot of answers there. Again, thanks for sharing. Don't think of it as bragging, but more as teaching. I read all of your posts, as well as about 5 - 10 others here, religiously. There is some good info to be found on this site, you just have to know what to look for

 

I hate you and hope you die while jumping out of your car which safely comes a stop on my front lawn with a signed title and 2 strippers in the back seat

 

I'm gonna guess that was directed at Mindgame, because of this:

LOL! Don't feel too bad, trey! Think about all the heads/cam guys back in 96/97 that were jumping when the cars made 330 RWHP. Things change, even though its really just looking at something differently.

 

Thanks Brian.

Ground clearance is good. The headers being custom built are alot tighter to the belly of the car than alot of the Hooker and other longtubes I've seen..... TPIS seems to be really tight though.
The rest of the system tucks tightly up near the driveshaft tunnel so the actual pipe clearance is really good. the 2.5" trans isn't til after the first bend going up to go over the axle. As you get further from the motor, the exhaust size (being larger for instance) is going to matter alot less. The gases have cooled considerably and actually a downstep in pipe cross section probably helps a bit in keeping the velocity up.

I only tested the car with full exhaust so I can't really say. Cutouts are just out of the question for me.... although that may yield some gains I'm happy where I'm at for the moment.

and Trey....................

-Mindgame

 

How much $ did the heads run out?