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Hello everyone, I posted this on yahoo answers only because I have an account and it was easier but it didnt help. I bought a 95 z28 chevy camaro pretty cheap, the owner said it needed engine replacement. I wasnt interested in the engine so I didnt ask really anything about it. I looked at it before I was about to drop the motor out and it had 2 crossed spark plug wires, switched them, Hard to start but came on with throttle but stalls after 1-5 minutes, stumbles the whole time even while giving it throttle. After About 45min of playing with it I called it quits and got ready to put my engine in, I figured I could get some money for the engine parts so thats cool.

After I got the subframe out I did a little more inspection.. The crank shaft hub thats on it is the hub for non-vented opti, and the accessory bracket is not flush with the harmonic balancer. I have the right one for it, an extra from my engine.

My question is Would that cause the stumbling and stalling? I know it could be a million things with these engines just want to know if I should waste my time changing it and putting the engine back in to see if it works, I could get a lot more for a running engine.

And if I put it back in to try it How far do i need to go to be able to turn it on and try it? i.e. put the sunbframe back in, radiator, coolant fuel lines and air. Do I need to completely install tranny(engine and tranny came out together)? not planning on moving it just starting. Thanks For reading.

Chimera96

to "start" the motor you would need to minimally have it bolted to motor mounts and the flywheel & starter on. Fuel lines and electrical harness hooked back up. you would not need water to just run it for a few minutes. without the tranny bolted to it and the xmember..you should at least block up under pan to help support the engine or obviously put the tranny back on it.

I doubt the wrong damper hub was the reason it kept stalling. It would have thrown accessory belt but still would have run.

there are many reasons why it is running rough, Opti is likely suspect but there could be a ton of reasons.

If you have a known good motor to replace it...I would use it.

the original motor "runs"...just like crap but it "runs". You could pull the pan and check bearings and inspect cyl walls to see if it is hurt that way. If not you could sell it as a "running" motor but advise how it did run when you pulled it. It really isn't worth much $1oo-$200

turnUP

whats up chimera, thanks for the reply. I was just explaining it to my cousin whos not a mechanic but knowsa little bit, he said itcould have just been pulling amps from the alternator and causing it to lose power. Also while I was taking the accessory bracket off spacers fell from the back i didnit notice them. they put spacers to try to make up for the difference. clean engine no leaks, Ill part it out and get a little more then $200 Im not trying to chase the ghost, yea I figured it would break the belt too.

Injuneer

The crank hub type has nothing to do with which Opti the engine uses. The hubs are different lengths depending on whether it is used on a 93-95 without the reluctor gear for the crank position sensor (long hub); or for the 96/97 with the CKP sensor reluctor (short hub). They may also have used the hub from a Corvette or a B-body, some of which are different lengths.

Are you sure the hub was on the crank all the way.

turnUP

I didnt check to see if it was hanging off a little. I'd just hate to strip down a good engine.

turnUP

Im taking the engine off the sub frame now, I see Injuneer that the hub is actually sticking out pass the balancer about 1/4 inch. on my new motor its flush and on my trans am its flush.

SSSean

If the crank hub was not installed all the way I am thinking the belt would not line up.

Injuneer

Appears they were worried about the belt and shimmed the accessory bracket to try and correct it.

= = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = = =

The more I read the description of the problem, the more confused I get. You indicate:

Are you saying the hub is flush with the crank snout, but somehow the outer end of it is sticking out past the edge of the damper/pulley?

In this picture, the inner cylinder of the hub that surrounds the bolt hole is exactly even with the metal flange on the damper/pulley with the three bolt holes in it. Are you saying the inner cylinder of the hub is sticking out 1/4" past the flat surface of the damper/pulley flange?

But you also indicate they put shims between the accessory bracket and the engine, to try and compensate for the misalignment. How would the inner cylinder of the hub sticking out of the surface of the damper/pulley flange cause this misalignment?

Something is getting lost in the wording.

Chimera96

turnup

pics would help

it sounds like either the hub or the accessory bracket on the motor are not from the same body type (B or F or??) or the hub is not correct to year of motor (94-95 vs 96)

if so, could be resolved with correct parts

turnUP

Yes injuneer just like your pic is flush, Im saying it sticks out. Yea I should have taken pictures, ill take some tonight. The spacers didnt really fix it I could see it was not alingment exactly but i guess it got close enough to not have the belt snap. I didnt know there was a difference in brackets also.

Injuneer

Someone may have put a non-stock damper/pulley on it????? Is it possible they just have a "sandwich" style under-drive pulley on there, but instead of putting the U/D pulley on, then putting the stock damper back on top of it, they never reinstalled the stock damper? I have seen people make this mistake.

Does your damper have the inner and out rings, connected by a ring of hard rubber, as shown in Shoebox's photo?

turnUP

It is the regular single ring pulley, but its not the same design as the three i have , I know the hub has holes in it like my 93 but my 95 and 94 dont have holes in the hub.. the holes are on the shaft of the hub, ill get the pics.

turnUP

Here they are, I was using a flash light because i didnt know how to turn the flash on on that tablet.

shoebox

You have a 96-97 pulley. That is not really important, but since it indicates it is the non-stock one (you said you had a 95), you need to know where the hub came from. The hubs are not all the same length. That would play into the shimming that someone did. Or is this really the original engine?

Courtesy of Nook and Tranny website:

LT1 Hub APPLICATION OVERALL LENGTH
92-95 Corvette, 93-95 Camaro/Firebird 3.519"
96 Corvette, 96-97 Camaro/Firebird 3.419"
94-95 Impala/Roadmaster/Caprice 4.09"
96 Impala/Roadmaster/Caprice 3.99"

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no im sure it's not the original, ill measure the hub and see, thats for the numbers.