colts0455

if i go buy a pack of resistors i really dont wanna cut wires if i got to i can & can i just twist tie them together sick them in plug to test crank it ? or bad idea. also if my main key the very 1st key that went out will not pick up what key code i need was dealership right by looking it up on by my vin ? cause ive seen people on videos say once you do a vats bypass code keys don't matter?

Injuneer

The bottom diagram in Shoebox's instructions show you that you do not have to cut any wires, just push the ends of the resistor into the harness connector:



This shows you the values you need to try:

4th Gen LT1 F-body Tech Articles

When you buy resistors, you need to connect them in series (end to end) to achieve a resistance within the range of low and high.

You seemed a bit confused about setting your ohm meter. You select the scale that will measure the resistor you are testing. Use the 20K (20,000 ohms max) range for resistors 9 thru 15. Use a lower scale for resistors 1 thru 8. Just make sure that the scale is higher than the resistor you are testing. You can't use a 2K (2,000 ohms max) scale to measure resistor #8. If that is the next scale on your meter below 20K, leave it on 20K for #8.

shoebox

All this info was available to you in the beginning. IMHO, I would have done some testing or trial with resistors for a couple bucks, before spending $20 on something that I was skeptical of. My first post said you don't have to cut wires.

I said before that I don't know if they really can get a key code from the VIN, but I believe that people that have lost their keys have provided their VIN and proof of ownership to a dealer to get new keys. So, it would seem legit.

Did you test the module to see if it is the resistance you requested?

colts0455

ok i tested my key got from dealership on 20k setting on multimeter it shows 0.66 & i just tested the code 3 bypass i just got in mail today it shows 0.66 matching the key. ok then i tested the cord you unhook the one that orange cord plugs into it comes up 7.2 something they didnt have my old key to go by cause it will not read at all just tried it 5times. instead of a code 3 would it be 13 cause of the other cord i tested tested under the dash? see if my old key would read i could bypass this headache.

colts0455

& sorry if it seems like im missing yalls info im not just so ill & bad storms coming trying get it done. but i have no way to know what code i started with cause my keys dead so i stuck multimeter to the end that the orange cord goes into & it showed 7.2 something witch on code chart is code 13 not 3.

colts0455

is there anyway to test for the old key reading other than the key ? cause code 3 aint working.

colts0455

a video if need one of me plugging it up into car trying to start write ill try beat the weather.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xTAf...ature=youtu.be

shoebox

You have a 660 ohm key and bypass module (based on your video).

Clarify which way you were taking the reading on the wiring...
The side with the orange sleeve is toward the key cylinder. If you take a reading there, do it with the key inserted (like detailed in the diagram in post #17). Reading should be the same as the key.
The opposite side of the connection is to the TDM. There is really nothing to read there, unless you want to take the connector off at the TDM and prove continuity to there. I suggested before to take a reading from the TDM connector back toward the bypass module to prove that is good. You need to know if that resistance reading is getting to the TDM.


The interrogator that I mentioned before is the only other way to determine the key resistance that I know of.

colts0455

gottttttttttttttttttttt it the stupid dealership gave me wrong key as i thought i went & got a shop to make the 1-15 code with resistors yes seem like a lot but it worked i went 1 by 1 & bam she fired up.

colts0455

i do got 1 more ? it was a 3.85 resistor ok that comes out to a code 10 key ok but my code 3 key worked as well as code 10 key but since the 3.85 code if i get the code 10 bypass just like one i got in mail today it will work ?

shoebox

Can you rewrite this, so I might be able to understand what you are saying?

colts0455

lol yea was typing fast hope yall safe its super bad weather here in nc >> said i got one more ? when i put the resistor & it finally cranked my car it was the 3.85 one that code shows that its a code 10 key. but my code 3 key was cranking it ? so if i got by another bypass since it was the 3.85 resistor that cranked it would it be right to by the code 10 bypass since my code 3 bypass didnt work.

shoebox

I don't know why you would have two different resistances working at this point. Not sure I would buy anything more until only one worked every time.

colts0455

that's what im saying im taking the dealership gave me wrong code when i tried the code 3 key & bypass code 3 i bought nothing happened. so i went to that 1-15 code chart took it to a shop got them to make me all 15 of the resistors to test the one that cranked it was a 3.85 one that pairs with with a code 10. so because the 3.85 one worked does that mean my key is a code 10 instead of a code 3 that the dealership said? if so ill just by another bypass but instead of a 3 code ill get a 10 code bypass? also i got them to make me a code 10 key free. i tried it 4 times b4 the weather hit cranked fine.

Injuneer

The confusion stems from the fact that you claim it will crank with the #10 resistor, and also cranked with the #3 key the dealer sold you. Go back and read your post #27. That's what you said. It should not be possible for two different resistances to allow the starter to crank the engine. That's why Rob posted his response.