Window fix availble
08-17-2009, 11:47 AM
#46
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE, Ohio
Posts: 1,504
There are two major points of resistance that cause power loss to the window motors thus causing slow windows:
1. The thermal cut-off circuit inside the motor.
2. The primary wiring leading to the motor itself has aged and become resistive.
A good while back I defeated the thermal cut-off circuits (long before the relays) by removing the cut-off terminal and soldering in a wire. This helped some but then the motors started to slow again.
When I did the relay mod they rolled up rocket fast like the car was built yesterday. This is because the high resistance wiring is no longer providing primary voltage to the motors, the exisiting high resistance wiring is only triggering the relays. BTW I have done the relay mod to both of my window motors and they roll up and down at the exact same speed, only doing the relay mod to the passenger window motor will cause the passenger side to be noticably faster than the driver side still.
I think the relay mod will provide much better results over the thermal cut-off deletion mod IMHO based on what I stated above.
I now believe that the thermal cut-off inside the window motors and the motors themselves work well and do not cause problems except when the exisiting primary wiring becomes extremely resistive over time. I cussed GM for years saying the motors were poorly engineered and underpowered, its the existing wiring and possibly the voltage drops of the window switches that are the real problem. Also the passenger side is the bigger problem since the length of wiring is much greater thus creating even more voltage drop.
When I did the install, I used wired sockets that the relays simply plug into just like the relays under the hood. They can be quickly replaced and are very unlikely to ever fail. I will also add that I think it is easier to do the relay mod since you do not have to remove the window motors at all or disassemble the motors. I also like the idea of relays fixing the true problem and leaving the thermal cut-off un-altered, it is afterall the safety circuit and is nice to have just in case an obstruction like an arm gets caught in the window.
1. The thermal cut-off circuit inside the motor.
2. The primary wiring leading to the motor itself has aged and become resistive.
A good while back I defeated the thermal cut-off circuits (long before the relays) by removing the cut-off terminal and soldering in a wire. This helped some but then the motors started to slow again.
When I did the relay mod they rolled up rocket fast like the car was built yesterday. This is because the high resistance wiring is no longer providing primary voltage to the motors, the exisiting high resistance wiring is only triggering the relays. BTW I have done the relay mod to both of my window motors and they roll up and down at the exact same speed, only doing the relay mod to the passenger window motor will cause the passenger side to be noticably faster than the driver side still.
I think the relay mod will provide much better results over the thermal cut-off deletion mod IMHO based on what I stated above.
I now believe that the thermal cut-off inside the window motors and the motors themselves work well and do not cause problems except when the exisiting primary wiring becomes extremely resistive over time. I cussed GM for years saying the motors were poorly engineered and underpowered, its the existing wiring and possibly the voltage drops of the window switches that are the real problem. Also the passenger side is the bigger problem since the length of wiring is much greater thus creating even more voltage drop.
When I did the install, I used wired sockets that the relays simply plug into just like the relays under the hood. They can be quickly replaced and are very unlikely to ever fail. I will also add that I think it is easier to do the relay mod since you do not have to remove the window motors at all or disassemble the motors. I also like the idea of relays fixing the true problem and leaving the thermal cut-off un-altered, it is afterall the safety circuit and is nice to have just in case an obstruction like an arm gets caught in the window.
The passenger side fix does not work on the driver side due to the way the express down module operates.
You could wire it in but you would have to remove the express down module and jumper it. We can show you what to jumper if you really want to go this route.
Let me know.
You could wire it in but you would have to remove the express down module and jumper it. We can show you what to jumper if you really want to go this route.
Let me know.
08-17-2009, 12:23 PM
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 63
I would only recommend it if you don't want express down on the driver side.
If you do want express down I would recommend the AutoTrix Driver side express down kit. Which comes with a new module.
If you have already installed the passenger kit and have both windows on their own circuit yet the driverside is still slow, you may have a regulator issue or still need a new motor on that side.
08-17-2009, 01:36 PM
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE, Ohio
Posts: 1,504
I would only recommend it if you don't want express down on the driver side.
If you do want express down I would recommend the AutoTrix Driver side express down kit. Which comes with a new module.
If you have already installed the passenger kit and have both windows on their own circuit yet the driverside is still slow, you may have a regulator issue or still need a new motor on that side.
If you do want express down I would recommend the AutoTrix Driver side express down kit. Which comes with a new module.
If you have already installed the passenger kit and have both windows on their own circuit yet the driverside is still slow, you may have a regulator issue or still need a new motor on that side.
08-20-2009, 06:09 PM
#49
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 57
Yes; our driver side express down module along with a new window motor would be a good bet against ever having to have take off the door panel again.
Although as stated above I would check and lubricate your window guide/track.
Although as stated above I would check and lubricate your window guide/track.
08-23-2009, 12:17 AM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 89
wow this thread was very interesting i always tell people the windows and doors are one of the worst things on these cars, ive replaced the window motors countless times over the 10 years ive owned this car, and always got jelous of how fast other windows in cars move, im defineatly gonna try removing the thermal thing and see what happens, if necessary ill rig it up right to the battery voltage like the kit.
I likey this
I likey this
09-17-2009, 11:48 AM
#52
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE, Ohio
Posts: 1,504
Size matters 
09-28-2009, 08:21 AM
#54
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: BFE, Ohio
Posts: 1,504
Where did you route/hide the relay module for the Driver's side express down? Where it is at right now is over the pedals and I wasn't sure where you guys hid yours.
Thanks in advance
P.S.
Both kits were very easy to install and the instructions were very straightforward. I will be testing them out tonight when I get a new battery. The hardest part of my install was pulling the wires through the boot in the door from the cab.
Thanks in advance
P.S.
Both kits were very easy to install and the instructions were very straightforward. I will be testing them out tonight when I get a new battery. The hardest part of my install was pulling the wires through the boot in the door from the cab.
10-04-2009, 09:56 PM
#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Tulsa, OK
Posts: 57
Thanks for follow-up, I am sure that you will enjoy it.
It really depends where the module ends up to where you can secure it. We kind of left up to each person and or situation.
Thanks for the purchase!
It really depends where the module ends up to where you can secure it. We kind of left up to each person and or situation.
Thanks for the purchase!
10-05-2009, 11:11 AM
#56
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: hot lana, Gawja
Posts: 123
11-14-2009, 05:33 PM
#59
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 63
If you install the relays in between the module and the motor, the module will not be able to detect how much current the motor is using and will never stop holding the button down.
I hope that makes sense.
You can find window motor instructions also at www.autotrix.net/install