Allanggg2

Hello. I will try to explain this the best way I can. Warning: long post.

I recently was driving my camaro on the highway at around 70 and the car suddenly died. I let it cruise to the side of the road and checked for any obvious signs under the hood. I did not see anything, so I went and tried restarting it and it would crank and fire up, and hiccup then die after a few seconds. I let it sit for about 15 minutes and tried it again and it did the same thing except this time it didnt turn over at all. It sounded like it would, you could feel the crank turning. So my first thought was fuel/spark. I got it towed home and got it up on stands and found a hose that I had forgotten to clamp down from my previous opti install. It was attached but was loose. It was the top coolant bleeder hose that attaches to the water pump. I could see remnants of what I assumed was coolant running down the hose and down the water pump. I thought my opti was shot again because I assumed it got on it. Simple amateur mistake can cost you, even as simple as forgetting to clamp down a hose.

Anyway, I replaced the opti again with a Summit Racing opti and attempted to start the car with the same problem. It would crank but not turn over. I checked for spark from coil to wires. I had spark from coil and at the spark plugs. I then rented a fuel pressure gauge from autozone and tried to check fuel pressure and it kept saying zero even when cranking the car. I tried to sit the hose on the schrader valve differently, thinking I had just installed it crooked or something like that with no luck. The first time i put the hose on the schrader valve I felt and smelled fuel on my finger. I tried to unhook the gauge, prime the fuel pump and let it create pressure again. I attached the gauge again with a reading still of zero. THis time though I did not feel any fuel on my fingers nor smell any. This is when I started thinking fuel pump.

I had an issue this past summer with hesitation and replaced some things including the pump (turned out to be a bad opti). I put in a racetronix kit with a walbro 255. I ran the extra 12v supply from the battery all the way back to where the fuel pump harness plugged in under the fuel tank. Anyway, I started listening for the pump to even prime when I turned the car on and I heard nothing. I had a friend put his ear next to the fuel cap and he said he heard a faint click and that's it. I got under the tank and listened and heard the same click but couldn't locate where it was coming from. i know the prime is supposed to be a whir or buzz for 2-3 seconds.

I don't mess too much with electricals, but I read on the ls1 forums about a fuel pump prime connector by the passenger side shock tower that I could jump and put 12v directly to the fuel pump. I tested it and heard the clicking again except this time a lot more clicking. Whenever i rubbed the end of the wire on the positive battery terminal I heard clicking from the same area under the car. I had the same friend hold the wire while I crawled underneath and listened. The clicking is coming from the area where the fuel pump harness plugs in. If anyone is familiar with the kit I installed they made you install a relay and ground on the bolt that holds the fuel tank vent valve bracket on the frame. It was kind of rusty, so I cleaned it up the frame hole and bolt. I don't know if this clicking is coming from the relay or the harness where the pump plugs in.

I bought a circuit test light and don't really know how to use it. I still have the gauge kit rented from autozone and it includes a multimeter. I know I should be checking electricals and voltage but don't know how. Is that clicking meaning the power is getting to the relay/harness/ground but not to the pump? i don't know what that clicking means. I never heard clicking before when my pump worked and heard it prime. Could my ground area be fouled? All the wiring in the area did not look damaged at all as it's only 5-6 months old from installing the kit.

Injuneer

Logical first step would be to check the voltage on the control side of the added relay, when you turn the key to "run" (or use the prime connector). I don't know the details of the Racetronix wiring kit, but typically what you are doing is using the voltage supplied from the stock fuel pump relay to activate (signal) the added relay. That would cause the added relay to click. Using the prime connector near the PCM bypasses the stock fuel pump relay.

If you have voltage on the signal side of the added relay, for the 2-seconds that the pump primes, check for 12V to the load side of the added relay. That would be the wire from the battery that you added. Did you check the fuse in that wire? There has to be one.

If you have 12V on the load side of the added relay, energize the relay via the prime connector and check the wire to the pump, from the load side of the relay, for 12V. If you have 12V going to the pump, and the pump isn't running, it a failed pump or a faulty wire in the tank.

If you aren't familiar with using the voltage scale in the multi-meter, it's going to be tricky trying to explain it, unless you can provide a wiring diagram of the Racetronix relay.

The top of this diagram shows the stock fuel pump relay and the gray 12V wire to the fuel pump.

http://shbox.com/1/1995_pcm3.jpg

This photo shows the stock fuel pump 12V and grounds.

http://shbox.com/1/fuel_pump_connector.jpg

Allanggg2

It ended up being a fuse blowing on my 12v supply to the pump. The wire was rubbing on the back of the alternator and exposed bare wire and overloaded. Thanks for the reply