DomsZ28

Hola! I found a large rip in my stock intake elbow. The car idles low it seems and the engine light came on. I dont know if that rip would cause this but it seems it needs replacing anyhow. I found this on Ebay and it seems really nice, and a fraction of the price of the K&N. Does anyone have any experiences with the "cheap" Ebay CAI setups? Will they flow as good as the K&N? Or is it just junk? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-CAMARO...b3cc52&vxp=mtr

Second (trying to kill two birds with one stone here) I had my opti replaced because my car wouldn't start, so the mechanic said that he was gonna test the security system, but when he went to test it, it was already unplugged. Well I got the car back and he must have left it unplugged because the light never comes on. Also The light has NEVER came on for me since I had the car. What does he mean it was unplugged and how do i plug it back in? Is there a reason the previous owner unplugged it? Thanks!!!!

97z28k&N

the intake kit is junk. The filter doesn't go down low enough to be a cold air intake; It is just sucking in warm engine air. Look for a used K&N FIPK on the marketplace area of this forum.


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97z28k&N

oh and the previous owner may have unplugged the security system because it had problems that prevented the car from starting and was too lazy to fix them.


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Injuneer

You can't defeat the security system by unplugging it. The most common method to eliminate the key issue is to splice the correct resistor into the wiring:

Courtesy of Shoebox:

4th Gen LT1 F-Body Tech-PassKey/VATS

http://shbox.com/1/vats_bypass.jpg

DomsZ28

Well Im wondering what he meant by saying he unplugged it.? How do I plug it back in to see if it's working or not and then go from there? i guess I'll be looking for a used K&N filter. I just cant justify spending over $200 for an air filter...

Injuneer

What part was unplugged? If you pull the connector off the lock cylinder, and insert the correct resistor in the harness connector pins, you have bypassed the key reader. If someone pulled the harness, put the resistor in the harness plug and taped it up, or added the resistor across the two wires leading to the harness connector, you should be able to correct it. Find out what he claims was unplugged, then look it over.

As far as the tear in the inlet elbow, you have to fix it. All the air entering the system through the rip is bypassing the MAF sensor. The PCM will not add enough of fuel to match actual air flow, the O2 sensors will indicate a lean condition, the PCM will start to ramp up the long term fuel corrections (BLM's) to provide the required fuel, and when the long term correction reach +25% they can't go any further, and a code sets. Did you scan it to find out what turned on the SES light?

At WOT there's a good chance you'll run lean, and maybe get into heavy spark knock. Even if you just duct tape the rip, it will be better than doing nothing, at least until you can get the elbow replaced.

I would agree, the ebay CAI is not very effective. I wouldn't use it.

DomsZ28

Thanks Injuneer I will check about the Security system tomorrow. As for the SES Light I can't figure out how to read it because it's a 95 and its the friggin OBD 1.5. So It'll be a pain. I have a very good OBD 1/2 scanner. I just havent tried it yet to see if it'll work.

Injuneer

No, it's not an OBD-1.5 system. The PCM is identical to the OBD-I PCM used in the 94, and can only be read with an OBD-I scanner. The only difference between the 94 and the 95 is the 95 has an OBD-II "style" 16-pin ALDL connector. You either need a cable specifically for the 16-pin OBD-I connector, an adapter plug to go from OBD-I 12-pin to OBD-I 16-pin, or use jumper wires as Shoebox shows:

http://shbox.com/1/xraycable.jpg

I know the Actron CP9145 OBD-I/OBD-II scanner will work with the correct Actron 16-pin cable. But many current OBD-I/OBD-II scanners will not work because they are looking for a 12V power supply pin in the ALDL and the GM OBD-I connector does not have a 12V pin.

You can also use free scanning software, with the correct cable:

TTS Power Systems

FreeScan

Used to sell the 16-pin USB cable, no longer does, but has a link to someone who does sell it:

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