Peytons'z

So basically I have a completely stock 95 trans am auto looking to make it a bit faster. I just got a used set of 3.73 gears and a eaton posi. I've been looking at a set of lpp longtubes and y-pipe. That would eat up $650 of the budget.

I was thinking about going with a LE head/cam combo but I wouldn't have any money left over for supporting mods.

Should i just go with the tried and true bolt on build? CAI, catback, longtubes, tune, etc? If I do this I likely will never have the money again for a LE head/cam combo.

What would you do?

Peytons'z

Well I just ordered my lpp longtubes so that brings my budget to $1400. I was looking at a lingenfelter cold air intake for $160. Is there a cheaper alternative?

Injuneer

Will you still have the stock exhaust, behind the headers/Y-pipe? If so, get a full 3" catback. Add a high stall converter, tubular lower control arms and LCA relocation brackets. That should make the best use of the rest of your budget.

Then save up for some sticky tires.....

Adam96Z

Are you up to date on all the regular replacement items?

I would consider getting new plugs, wires, fuel filter, brake pads, rotors, suspension bushings, tie rod ends, shocks, etc.

I have about the same budget this winter and this is what I have gotten so far.
SLP used headers 94/95 style
Magnaflow cat.
Plugs
Plug wire heat shields.
3.42 complete rear end used.
PHB
STB
LCA
3" Exhaust
Fel Pro exhaust manifold gaskets.
Fuel Filter

Still have to buy a tuned PCM and steering rack/tie rod ends/tires.

Things I already had:
CAI
New rear shocks.
New opti.
New opti harness.

I think I have spent about $1000 so far and plan to spend another $500-600 on tires and $150 on a PCM.

koolaid_kid

A good stall combined with your gear will really wake up the car. Don't buy a cheap one, expect to pay $500-700. A shift kit such as the TransGo 700R4 Heavy Duty would help also, and an external transmission cooler such as the B&M 70264 is a requirement for any stalled auto.

Peytons'z

The car has been taken well care of and garaged kept. It had a plug and wire change a while back. I'm going to do a fuel filter change as soon as it warms up a bit. I plan on going through the bushings this summer. I can get those later.

It currently has a flowmaster muffler which is gonna be taken off asap. I'm looking at getting a hooker catback. I had one on my last f-body and was really happy with the sound. With headers I'm sure it will sound great.

I'm not sure about a higher stall converter. I know it would wake up the car a good bit. How do they affect drivability/mpg? What brands are good? It's something I never fooled with.

Peytons'z

Ok I got a shopping cart full of stuff picked out on summit. Here is what I got so far. Felpro gasket kit for the headers, stage 8 locking header bolts, hooker catback, trickflow CAI, UMI performance LCA and non adjustable PHB. Also looking at a lt1 scanmaster. Had one in my last car and loved it. Thats a total of 1087.48 shipped which leaves me with $313. Thats enough for the gear install. What do you guys think?

mdenz3

If you want to do anything other than drag racing, steer clear of the LCAs. They will give you to much bind.
If you read through this thread there is a cheap way to make your own aluminum LCA with rod ends at one end and rubber at the other.
(you may need to register there to read it.)

Peytons'z

I'm not going to be racing or anything. It will be my summer daily driver. Well I can take them off the list. I can use that money for a mail order tune I guess.

Injuneer

All you need to do with the LCA's is avoid using polyurethane on both ends. Look at Poly/rubber, and Poly/spherical rod end combinations, or there are poly ends that incorporate a spherical poly joint. Any of thes will minimize or eliminate suspension bind. Do a "search" on the "Suspension, Chassis and Brakes" forum for feedback on the various alternatives.

cody96ss

Long tubes, cam, polish the heads, 1.6 Rocker Arms (only need 8 for intake sides), and cutouts baby!

koolaid_kid

Listen to Injuneer. I use UMI poly/rod LCAs. The rod end allows articulation (prevents bind) and the poly quietens the ride. The stock LCAs are very weak and flexible, not a desirable trait. You will also want an adjustable PHB. Our cars generally come off-centered from the factory, and the adjustment will allow you to center the axle left to right. Get part number 201621 in the color of your choice.
Scanmaster is an OBDII tool. For OBDI, most go with Datamaster. It retails for $125, but many use the 20 free trial runs first. And you'll need a cable. I got both from akmcables for a discounted price.

Injuneer

You keep posting that info, quoting up to 1" misalignment. I've never seen that to be a common problem with the 4th Gens.

Actually, the "ScanMaster" is a hardware scanner, not software, that works with all LT1's. It will not show codes in OBD-II though. I have one of thefirst ones sold, from back in the mid 90's. Its the way I developed and wrote my manual for scanning the LT1:

http://www.injuneer.com/ScanMast.html

koolaid_kid

I have measured 5 fbodies, all were out of alignment. On another site, others have the same complaint. The passenger's side is always the one that sticks out further than the driver's side. Someone claimed to know why, but all I know for certain is what I measured.
The sample size is small, but the trend I found was clear. Vehicles were my own, an 02 WS6, a 94, 95 & 98 Z28. Of the samples, all were stock 10 bolts. All had stock suspension except the 98, which had a replacement 10 bolt and aftermarket LCAs.
Perhaps there is more than one company using the Scanmaster name? I Googled and found this: http://www.scantool.net/software/scanmaster.html which is clearly OBDII.

Injuneer

One of the first mods I got for my brand new 94 was an adjustable panhard rod. After measuring before the install, the body was correctly centered over the axle, so I set the adjustable to the stock length.

I would think that a vehicle that had the rear body shifted 1" off center would be visibly "crabbing" down the street..... again, not something I've ever observed with the 4th Gens.

Before spending money on the adjustable panhard rod, I'd measure the rear side-to-side alignment.