MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
08-19-2010, 01:51 AM
#1
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Location: Orem, UT
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MikeGyver's Turbo 383 Build.
Now that I've got my new 383 built and running, I'm going to start a big thread documenting my progress on the car.
My car previously was stock with an STS kit and custom piping / intercooler. My motor was is poor shape (blowby, etc.) and it lasted about a year on 7psi. The motor lost oil pressure one night and half the bearings seized/spun.
This time around I am upgrading from the 60-1 turbo to a T76 to feed the built-for-boost 383. Since my new goals are somewhere around 700rwhp, I will also be redoing the piping, which was mostly 2.25".
My car previously was stock with an STS kit and custom piping / intercooler. My motor was is poor shape (blowby, etc.) and it lasted about a year on 7psi. The motor lost oil pressure one night and half the bearings seized/spun.
This time around I am upgrading from the 60-1 turbo to a T76 to feed the built-for-boost 383. Since my new goals are somewhere around 700rwhp, I will also be redoing the piping, which was mostly 2.25".
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:21 AM.
08-19-2010, 02:11 AM
#2
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I'll start off with some pics from my motor build.
Here's the basic specs:
383 9.1:1 compression ratio
Callies Stealth Crank
Lunati 6" ProMod I-beam rods
JE Extreme Duty blower pistons 26cc dish
Childs & Albert gapless rings
ARP main & head studs
4 bolt splayed caps
Cometic MLS head gaskets
CNC ported LT4 heads & intake 58cc, 210cc runners
Custom grind Comp turbo cam 114LSA
Stock oil pan
Mellings select standard volume pump w/ hi pressure spring
Fluidampr
CSR electric water pump
Notch added to stock oil pan for dipstick/main cap clearance.
Mellings select std volume pump with pickup tacked on and inlet scoop removed.
These are little risers I made using the stock windage tray bolts. They space the windage tray away from the (longer stroke) crank.
Risers threaded onto the ARP studs, then jammed on with the lower nut.
Welded water pump drive hole.
Cloyes 3145 double roller installed.
Here's the basic specs:
383 9.1:1 compression ratio
Callies Stealth Crank
Lunati 6" ProMod I-beam rods
JE Extreme Duty blower pistons 26cc dish
Childs & Albert gapless rings
ARP main & head studs
4 bolt splayed caps
Cometic MLS head gaskets
CNC ported LT4 heads & intake 58cc, 210cc runners
Custom grind Comp turbo cam 114LSA
Stock oil pan
Mellings select standard volume pump w/ hi pressure spring
Fluidampr
CSR electric water pump
Notch added to stock oil pan for dipstick/main cap clearance.
Mellings select std volume pump with pickup tacked on and inlet scoop removed.
These are little risers I made using the stock windage tray bolts. They space the windage tray away from the (longer stroke) crank.
Risers threaded onto the ARP studs, then jammed on with the lower nut.
Welded water pump drive hole.
Cloyes 3145 double roller installed.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 04-29-2011 at 09:43 PM.
08-19-2010, 02:26 AM
#3
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Cometic MLS
Heads decked around .026" (from 64cc to 58cc)
Fully CNC ported LT4 heads, 210cc runners
Heavily ported and ceramic coated stock exhaust manifolds
Heavily ported and ceramic coated stock exhaust manifolds
Stock throttle body, A/C compressor, 60# mototrons can be seen
Powdercoated Trickflow elbow and MAF sensor
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:22 AM.
08-19-2010, 02:45 AM
#4
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This basically brings us up to date on the motor. Here's some detail on the intercooler.
When I first got and installed my intercooler it looked like this. The intercooler was too low and would scrape the ground if I went straight into my driveway, not OK since this is one of my daily drivers.
The IC couldn't really be moved up because the inlet and outlet were already up against the bumper, so I removed 2 runners off the bottom.
When I first got and installed my intercooler it looked like this. The intercooler was too low and would scrape the ground if I went straight into my driveway, not OK since this is one of my daily drivers.
The IC couldn't really be moved up because the inlet and outlet were already up against the bumper, so I removed 2 runners off the bottom.
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:29 AM.
08-19-2010, 02:55 AM
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I modified the intercooler again last week.
I welded a strip of aluminum across the bottom front. Using 5 of those locking plastic push pin thingies, the bumper cover is now secured to the intercooler.
Bumper cover secured to IC. Flap inside has been painted black too.
Ground clearance is as good as stock
A somewhat unrelated pic
I welded a strip of aluminum across the bottom front. Using 5 of those locking plastic push pin thingies, the bumper cover is now secured to the intercooler.
Bumper cover secured to IC. Flap inside has been painted black too.
Ground clearance is as good as stock
A somewhat unrelated pic
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:23 AM.
08-19-2010, 03:08 AM
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Made some more modifications to the intercooler tonight.
Since my new IC-to-engine pipe is going to be 3.5" (as opposed to the old 2.25" one), I decided to cut the 3" outlet off the intercooler and weld on a 3.5" one. This should make for a very clean pipe w/o the 3" restriction between the IC tank and the 3.5" pipe.
The 3.5" pipe. Since I'm going to be running in speed density mode, I will be deleting the MAF and extending the pipe. This will delete clamps/silicone and give an even cleaner look.
3" outlet removed with plasma cutter.
3.5" outlet welded on and ported smooth inside.
Finished intercooler
Since my new IC-to-engine pipe is going to be 3.5" (as opposed to the old 2.25" one), I decided to cut the 3" outlet off the intercooler and weld on a 3.5" one. This should make for a very clean pipe w/o the 3" restriction between the IC tank and the 3.5" pipe.
The 3.5" pipe. Since I'm going to be running in speed density mode, I will be deleting the MAF and extending the pipe. This will delete clamps/silicone and give an even cleaner look.
3" outlet removed with plasma cutter.
3.5" outlet welded on and ported smooth inside.
Finished intercooler
Last edited by MikeGyver; 08-19-2010 at 03:18 AM.
08-19-2010, 05:09 PM
#11
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Yeah I see it now- I was at work last night and a couple of the pics didn't load up.
Pardon my ignorance- but what did you do to drive the opti since the cam sprocket doesn't have the stock casting for the opti drive? I would love to know since I have a double roller sitting in my tool box right now and would love to use it.
Looking real nice so far-keep it up!
Pardon my ignorance- but what did you do to drive the opti since the cam sprocket doesn't have the stock casting for the opti drive? I would love to know since I have a double roller sitting in my tool box right now and would love to use it.
Looking real nice so far-keep it up!
08-19-2010, 05:26 PM
#12
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The Cloyes 3145 cam gear has a hole for the cam dowel that drives the opti. Most other gear sets won't swap on. Keep in mind my car is a '95 with the dowel, not the earlier spline drive kind.
08-19-2010, 09:16 PM
#15
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Location: Upstate New York,USA
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Agreed! These kind of pictorials are what prompted/encouraged me when I was doing my build. As others said, your welds are art. I wish I had that talent, especially with aluminum. I'm okay with exhaust stuff now but Aluminum, that's a future skill for me. 