Went out racing the other night, won 3 out of the 4 races. Thats one race short. I need more power to beat this RX-7 the next time i see him. I dont need much. He beat me by a half a car!!!! I was kinda looking into a MEIZERE waterpump and a 160 thermostat before but now im serious. I was just wondering the RWHP gains from it and if it is worth it. I have all other bolt ons and this is pretty much the last thing i can do before all the major stuff. Any info appreciated. Current mods in my sig. I am guessing to be around 290 at the wheels right now. Would these two things push me over the 300 rwhp mark?? Sorry so long and thanks in advance.



Chris

 

One major part you need to get is some DR's. Give you alot more improvement then both the WP and 160 stat will give you. Of course this is from a roll or stop, on a highway race they are useless, but then again with the 4.10's I am guessing you aren't racing too high of speeds anyway. The 160 stat isn't worth it. The mpg that you loose far outweighs the 3-5 rwhp you gain. Get a set of RR's to get a nice gain.

Travis

 

dyno graphs from ws6.com

water pump = 6hp 5# torq
air foil = 2hp 2# torq
underdrive pullies = 1hp 5# torq
throttle body bypass = 6hp 7# torq

there are some more ideas...(didn't see any of them in your sig)

here is a dyno of the 160 stat but it aslo has HPP programing: http://www.ws6.com/mod-3.htm

 

How persay would u loose MPG with an electric waterpump and 160* thermostat????? that doesn't make any sence...

 

Gains will be nothing from the tstat. The Elect H20 as u can see is in between 5-10 hp tops...

 

Id suggest some 1.6RRs, youd get about 25hp from those based on some dynos. Elec H20 in my eyes arent worth it, since they like to just quit without warning, and if you arent paying attention for some reason, your car is fckd. A 160* stat isnt going to give you any gains persay, it will make your car run cooler with programming (and without) which if you sit at the light for a minute before you race it will help, car runs much better colder. Didnt see catback in your sig, do you have that?

 

Take off those 17s when you goto the races.

16" wheels will spin up easier as the rolling resistance is less "off the line". On the highway, it doesn't really matter.

Get some DRs, for your 16s, and only put them on the rear.

 

160* tstat makes the car run cooler and richer.. thus the MPG loss

 

Another vote for 1.6RR's.

 

I sure didn't see ANY drop in MPG with my car with the different thermo.. or CSI, or re-programmed fans...

Actually my BLMs didn't even twitch when I changed any of those things. But ok....

 

im another vote for either DR's or 1.6rr's

 

RR are a nice up grade but many times they are a bit out of the average "home garage" mechanic.

if you wanted simple bolt ons...go for what has been listed.

another thought would be maybe have your stock TB bored to 52mm and install the airfoil. guys are gonna flame me and say you don't need it, but it's not going to hurt you (a 58mm probably would). the question/argument is whether the price is worth a small gain.

either way, i think we've given you plenty of food for thought...

 

One more thing that hasnt been mentioned is some minor weight reduction. Doing some small things such as removing your spare tire, jack, and back seat will help you out a little as well.

I also vote for adding 1.6rr's and some sticky tires if you dont already have them. Good luck!

 

Dude, GET TRACTION

If he only beat you by half a car and you were spinning you shold make up a car lenght or more. I am judging this because you said you pulled 2.3 60 fts. Nitto dr hook great on the street, especially a old concret bridge . But if you wanted to add horse power 1.6 rr is the best bang for the buck, but on another note i have had no probs with my electric wp. The car runs cooler than ever before.

Ever Tried Nitrous No one can spray just one time!!!

Good luck

 

SOTP feels DRS>WP and TSTAT