Breaking in the LS3 in my new SS

Guys,
I have been lurking a long time. Decided to sign up as my new Black 2SS 6 speed is due by Mid May at a small Chevy store in Central Ontario. Probably one of the first deliveries in Canada. Ordered 3 yrs ago. Sold my 01 Vette and 94 LT1 to get her.
My question is rather simple. I know for a fact that there is no such thing as break in oil. (my best buddy builds LS3's at the St Catherines plant).
So REV it hard for 1st 20 miles and roll back in dealer and put in fresh Mobil 1 or go easy... put around and wait till 500-700 miles and change oil then and then ride her harder from then on in.... I will keep car at least 10 years.
Opinions ???

I don't know, but it is spelled St.Catharines :D

I think the break in is more for the transmission and the axle. The engines have already been run when they were built.

ok so if it is for the tranny and rear end, how do you break it in?

burn all the rubber off your tires :lol:

How bout a wiki link to that question

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_should_you_%27break-in%27_a_new_car

Every new vehicle I've ever bought (car, truck, motorcycle, PWC) has had specific break-in instructions in the owner's manual. I expect Camaro will be no different. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

so...still NO agreement. The bike guys say drive it like you stole it. Others say be gentle. We should get more opinions on this as it is pretty important to anyone buying a new Camaro....

my question is are you planning on keeping it for ever? if not who cares...

gonna keep it for minimum 10 years....just sold my mint 94Z28 6 speed.
just want a well seated, fast, non oil burning engine and trying to do everything I can to make sure that happens....

so...still NO agreement. The bike guys say drive it like you stole it.

The last two bikes I bought had instructions to run at no more than half throttle for so many miles and then not to exceed two thirds throttle for so many miles after that. Seems like a lot of old wives tales out there. I'd go with whatever GM says to do with it.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I have been to this site above before. I think some of his stuff on running it hard are valid up to a point. I do have some concerns about one guy on the internet going against what the engineering staff at Chevrolet would suggest. Especially the part about dumping the factory Mobil 1 and running basic castrol or havoline NON synthetic for up to 1500 miles while the owners manual/oil cap on motor and all GM literature clearly state that one should only use Mobil 1 in LS engines...:rolleyes:

i do plan on keeping my camaro forever. so i would like to know the right break in recommendations. i was always told to give it a good 1-2000 miles before any good whooping in the throttle/transmission.

i use mobil 1 in all my cars regaurdless

gonna keep it for minimum 10 years....just sold my mint 94Z28 6 speed.
just want a well seated, fast, non oil burning engine and trying to do everything I can to make sure that happens....

Well... I hate to take the wind out of your sail... but the rings are seated when you get it!

if manual...the clutch / trans is a different story. I would keep the speed varied...and no high speed runs / hard shifts for the first few hundred miles.

All of the above information should be in your owners manual.

after you get a few hundred on the clock...let her eat!

I just bought a 09 c6 end of last week... (In place of my 2 ss order)... she has just over 250 on the clock... and the trans / clutch now is about as good as it is going to get.

I would ignore any extremists!!! 1950 wants their break in technology back!

curious...why did you replace your Camaro order...The vette is fabulous but......Actually I sold my 01 Vette and 94 camaro to help pay for new Camaro. will get another Vette down the road but 2009 is the year for the CAMARO.....:):):)

For the first 2 414 km/1,500 miles:
Avoid full throttle stsrts and aburt stops.
Do not exceed 4,000 engine rpm.
Avoid driving at any one constant speed, fast or slow.
Do not drive above 160 km/h (100).
Avoid downshifting to brake or slow the vehicle when the engine speed exceed 4000 RPM.
Do not let the engine labor. Never lug the engine in high gear at low speeds. With a manual transmission, shift to the next lower gear. This rule applies at all times, not just during the break-in period.
Do not participate in racing events, sport driving schools, or similar activities during this break-in period.
Check engine oil with every refueling and add if necessary. Oil anf fuel consumption may be higher than normal during the first 2 414 km/1,500 miles.
To break-in new tire, drive at moderate speeds and avoid hard cornering for the first 322 km/200 miles. New tires do not have maximum traction and may tend to slip.
New brake linings also need a break-in period. Avoid making hard stops during the first 322 km/200 miles. This is recommended every time brake linings is replaced.
Should the vehicle be used for racing or competitive driving(after break-in), the rear axle lubricant must be replaced beforehand.
This is straight from my 2010 2ss Owners Manual Page 8-16 to 8-17.

Drive it with varying rpms for a good 200 miles and then change the oil and drive the way you want. The rest of the drivetrain, I would let stay for at least a 1000 miles then replace with GOOD fluids.

Well... I hate to take the wind out of your sail... but the rings are seated when you get it!

Question, how are you so sure of this?

Drive it with varying rpms for a good 200 miles and then change the oil and drive the way you want. The rest of the drivetrain, I would let stay for at least a 1000 miles then replace with GOOD fluids.
the tranny fluid and the gear lube? change after 1k? is this normal? i was planning on driving at moderate speeds and then changing the oil at 1k.

any other opinions on dumping ALL fluids, Transmission, Diff, etc....after 1000K??? seems extreme but maybe not. When you write GOOD fluids...any comments on what fluids would be considered good?? for gearbox and Diff for example on a new SS....

any other opinions on dumping ALL fluids, Transmission, Diff, etc....after 1000K??? seems extreme but maybe not. When you write GOOD fluids...any comments on what fluids would be considered good?? for gearbox and Diff for example on a new SS....


1000K? Isn't that a million miles?

By good fluids, I mean good quality synthetics for each part of the powertrain. Yes, 1k miles in is not long at all, but from there on having good fluids in there will be much better for THOUSANDS of miles to come.

The c6 vette instructions said to drive it with good healthy throttle pressure during the first 500 miles but keep the RPMs away from the red line, vary the rpms, and no WOT. First drive should be about 20 miles the let it cool down completely, this is for the rear and transmission.

The idea is to have good pressure on the rings so they seat while they are sharp - makes sense to me.

If your intentions are not to beat the hell out of it,drive it the way you intend to from day one. As was indicated the rings are seated. There is no real,"break in", period anymore. The oil in the case from the factory is standard petroleum based oil without a high level of cleansing agents. I also use mobile one synthetics in all my engines. Red line synthetics in all my tranny's and axles.

any other opinions on dumping ALL fluids, Transmission, Diff, etc....after 1000K??? seems extreme but maybe not. When you write GOOD fluids...any comments on what fluids would be considered good?? for gearbox and Diff for example on a new SS....
1000k is pretty extreme, do you think it will even live that long?

anyone else dump trans and diff fluids at 600-1000 Miles on a new car or just oild and fluids at normal intervals??

Normal scheduled intervals. If you plan to switch to synthetics, do it when you want or at scheduled service. I would do it sooner then that.

Unless you beat it, most times GM doesnt recommend tranny or diff fluid to be replaced at all.
If you are towing or racing with the car, ok yes, but under normal driving...Id leave it alone.

The LS3 in the Camaro will come with M1 oil cap? Hrm...cool. Does the Camaro have the same massive 8 qt oil pan like the G8 does?

It wouldn't surprise me...it's got a nine quart capacity.

Well... I hate to take the wind out of your sail... but the rings are seated when you get it!

if manual...the clutch / trans is a different story. I would keep the speed varied...and no high speed runs / hard shifts for the first few hundred miles.

All of the above information should be in your owners manual.

after you get a few hundred on the clock...let her eat!

I just bought a 09 c6 end of last week... (In place of my 2 ss order)... she has just over 250 on the clock... and the trans / clutch now is about as good as it is going to get.

I would ignore any extremists!!! 1950 wants their break in technology back!

Not true

Question, how are you so sure of this?

He isn't. All engine are "cold run" at the factory before leaving, meaning that they roll them over, but no fuel or spark. The only engines that are ran i believe, are the LS7's, and possibly the LS9's Anyways, an engine's rings will not properly seat until the engine is ran under a load, causing the rings to fully expand and seat/wear-in with the cylinder wall. This is accomplished with some...i said....some spirited driving, but that is accomplished with the normal acceleration followed by the break-in procedure, and the occasional full throttle blip we all know will occur.

wrong answer. Please tell me your source of this rhetoric?

In the new GM hardcover book about the development of the 2010 Camaro ("A Legend is Born"), it is stated that the cars are run on rollers up to 5000 RPM right off the assembly line. As part of the same process, the cars are driven over a simulated bumpy road to check for squeaks and rattles, and then blasted with high-pressure water to check for leaks.
It seems that GM violates their own break-in guidelines when the cars are as green as can be.
My plan is to drive the car for about 200 miles, then change the oil and let it eat. :cool:

good plan. change early. change again at 1000 or 2000 miles...I have not been gentle on my car during break in. Runs great...

don't worry, you'll have a hundred other minor and major problems to fix other than your piston rings and bearings over the next 175,000 miles.

Not true



He isn't. All engine are "cold run" at the factory before leaving, meaning that they roll them over, but no fuel or spark. The only engines that are ran i believe, are the LS7's, and possibly the LS9's Anyways, an engine's rings will not properly seat until the engine is ran under a load, causing the rings to fully expand and seat/wear-in with the cylinder wall. This is accomplished with some...i said....some spirited driving, but that is accomplished with the normal acceleration followed by the break-in procedure, and the occasional full throttle blip we all know will occur.

how are you so sure?

rings to fully expand? you make this up on your own? the ring is fully expanded when it is in the box!

stop picking fights... internet commando.

how are you so sure?

rings to fully expand? you make this up on your own? the ring is fully expanded when it is in the box!

stop picking fights... internet commando.

Since i have obviously struck a nerve, and you feel the need to be an internet toughguy yourself, here are a few instances to back up my experience working as both an engine builder, and a dyno test technician for your U.S. Army that sees these things every day. I could produce government studies and paperwork to bury you with data, but most of the same data is readily available online, so here ya go....Internet Commando returning fire. I'm Not trying to pick fights, just trying to inform theose who believe everything they read online. An engine needs some "spirited" driving during initial break-in to properly seat the rings. And yes, all rings are under tension when installed, but not proper tension/wear-in to properly mate with the cylinder wall for a tight seal long-term. Feel free to contact any engine builder worth his salt, and they will agree that to baby an engine during break-in isn't the best idea, but then again, don't beat the hell out of it. Try contacing Pat Musi, Nelson Racing, or any other well known builders, hell even a GM engineer or two, we have several former auto industry engineers working for us in my building that worked in various design and testing departments.


Just a few examples below for your reading pleasure.

http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm

Aerospace/Plane related, but still relative, many of the race engines we built were still broken in using mineral oil due to it's lower lubricity to allow parts to wear-in or properly seat.

http://www.avweb.com/news/maint/182895-1.html

http://www.enginesonly.com/break-in.html

http://www.hdtalking.com/harley_davidson_engine_related_issues/953-proper_engine_break_in_for_new_motors.html

http://www.factoryengines.com/docs/TCM%20Engine%20Break-In%20Flight%20Tips.pdf

Thank you an have a nice day!

Internet commando signing off!