Dyno Event in Keller

Hey, My Buick club is sponsoring a Dyno Event Sat. Nov 15th from 9am-5p at A&S Automotive.

What: 4th Annual LSPBC Dyno Event
When: Saturday Nov. 15th 9am - 5pm
Where: A&S Automotive
3015 Keller-Hicks Rd. Keller, TX Shop# 817-431-3150

Any vehicle is welcome. LSPBC members are free. Non members are $30 for 3 pulls with A/F.
Time permitting you may get as many pulls as you desire, in the past this has not been a problem to get strapped on several times.
Food and drink will be provided for all club members and new members signed up for dyno that day, so come out and have lunch with us.

What kind of dyno do they have? Mustang? DynoJet?

Count me in. :)

What kind of dyno do they have? Mustang? DynoJet?
I believe it is a DynoJet, I'll look at my past printouts from there when I get home.

If I can get my motor back up and running by then I'll try to make it out. I want to get some numbers with the mail-order tune.

What kind of dyno do they have? Mustang? DynoJet?

Yes, it is a Dynojet

count me in...im in Watauga right down the road

Yes, it is a Dynojet

Sweet! I have a road race Trans AM and a road race prepped Formula I need to get a 2009 dyno cert for. Can I get a print out of the the 3 runs?

Sweet! I have a road race Trans AM and a road race prepped Formula I need to get a 2009 dyno cert for. Can I get a print out of the the 3 runs?

Yep, and you can bring them both, just get there early to make sure you have time to get one back home and bring the other if you don't have a driver for one..in case there's a big turnout, but the last few times has not been an issue at all to get multiple pulls, just they do not do the tuning between pulls unless its for extra $$, so tuning is up to you between sets.

No tuning allowed in this racing class.

However, I will have to install a restrictor plate between the throttle body and intake in order to dyno cert for 2 different classes. It takes 5 minutes.

So, I need 3 pulls w/o a restrictor plate and 3 pulls with for each car.

No tuning allowed in this racing class.

However, I will have to install a restrictor plate between the throttle body and intake in order to dyno cert for 2 different classes. It takes 5 minutes.

So, I need 3 pulls w/o a restrictor plate and 3 pulls with for each car.
Shouldn't be a problem at all if you're there early enough as you'll just have to get back in line after each set of 3 pulls..or if there's not many folks there then they'd probably let you just pull it off and make the second set without unstrapping. Scott, the owner of the shop, and our Buick club pres running it are all laid back. There usually not more than 3-4 cars ready to go at any given time at most.

Looking at aerial views, I see several buildings in that complex and it appears that A&S is on the west end. Are those other businesses open on Saturday?

The reason I'm asking is I will be dragging a 28' enclosed trailer behind the PSD and will need some place to park the rig.

Yes they are IIRC from when I took my car up there, but there is a gate on the west side and also I think you can drive into the feild next to the place. The one business next to him didn't have any cars parked out front when I was there.

Looking at aerial views, I see several buildings in that complex and it appears that A&S is on the west end. Are those other businesses open on Saturday?

The reason I'm asking is I will be dragging a 28' enclosed trailer behind the PSD and will need some place to park the rig.
A&S is in the front row of buildings, when looking at them from the street, they are in the very front building to the left and are in the middle of that building. The west most / end business I do not think is open, the other business to the right of A&S is a stone/pave stone making business and is open, but there should be room for your rig either beside the building on the west most side, or in front of the buildings on the right hand side of the complex, IIRC those businesses are not open. If not, then there is open field back in the back if you drive down the center of the complex, but it is a dirt/gravel road between them so you might stir up dust if you care about dust getting on your vehicle. There has been trailered cars there in the past at the event and it has not been an issue as long as several don't show up at once. Maybe go down the street to the east past the 4-way stop and unload it in the school parking lot that is up there and drive it down, its about 2 or 3 blocks. Heck, looking at Google earth, that school looks to be alot closer than that.

Thanks for answering all the questions.

My plan is to be there early in an attempt to get freshly built car dynoed, and then make it back with my race car before the end of the day. I'm a little over an hour away.

If you care to take a look, here is the freshly built car ...
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm

and here is my personal race car.
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis2.htm

These aren't anything special under the hood. Just a bone stock LT1 making about 250 RWHP. But they are light weight and handle like a go-cart.

Thanks for answering all the questions.

My plan is to be there early in an attempt to get freshly built car dynoed, and then make it back with my race car before the end of the day. I'm a little over an hour away.

If you care to take a look, here is the freshly built car ...
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis4.htm

and here is my personal race car.
http://www.lawmotorsports.net/Chassis2.htm

These aren't anything special under the hood. Just a bone stock LT1 making about 250 RWHP. But they are light weight and handle like a go-cart.
Looks like a really nice cage job in that Firebird. A friend of mine autocrosses a '93 LT1 Camaro and a '98 LS1 Camaro that are all basically stock, sounds like the same type of class you run in. I'll keep an eye out for you Sat.

Thanks for the hospitality. Mission accomplished!

Thanks for the hospitality. Mission accomplished!
No prob, glad you came out and to have met ya today.
I got home and popped my valve covers off and found 2 rockers on the driver side and 1 on the pass side that the poly lock had backed off of and the #8 cylinder had blown the header gasket out, looks like the rear bolt had loosened up....2 completely unrelated things happening at exactly the same time....at least it nothing serious.

Good to hear it was a simple solution ....

No prob, glad you came out and to have met ya today.
I got home and popped my valve covers off and found 2 rockers on the driver side and 1 on the pass side that the poly lock had backed off of and the #8 cylinder had blown the header gasket out, looks like the rear bolt had loosened up....2 completely unrelated things happening at exactly the same time....at least it nothing serious.

I'm having a funny noise out of the valve covers still that I think is the polylocks backing off....what kind of sound does that make? I just haven't had the time to take off the covers and readjust them.

I'm having a funny noise out of the valve covers still that I think is the polylocks backing off....what kind of sound does that make? I just haven't had the time to take off the covers and readjust them.
Once they get slightly loose, they back off in a hurry because the allen set screw is no longer engaging the stud, so it can spin freely off....but if you have stock height valve covers, usually the lock nut can't back all the way off as it hits the valve cover...mine are close enough that the allen set screw can't back all the way out either as I had one backed into the valve cover gouging it out some.
Its just a loud tick that gets louder as it backs off more. It can sound just like a header leak as well at different rpms....in my case I had both..header leak and loose rockers.

Mine was actually 3 broken poly lock nuts..discovered the cracks in them as I tried to reinstall them Sunday...this is the second time I've broke them...first time was I tightened them too tight...this time they were less than 20ftlbs on the allen lock...so out with the Comp BS and I've ordered some ARPs which have a 190,000 psi tensile strength.... The guy at the speedshop said he had some break on him recently too, so its not just me.

Once they get slightly loose, they back off in a hurry because the allen set screw is no longer engaging the stud, so it can spin freely off....but if you have stock height valve covers, usually the lock nut can't back all the way off as it hits the valve cover...mine are close enough that the allen set screw can't back all the way out either as I had one backed into the valve cover gouging it out some.
Its just a loud tick that gets louder as it backs off more. It can sound just like a header leak as well at different rpms....in my case I had both..header leak and loose rockers.

Mine was actually 3 broken poly lock nuts..discovered the cracks in them as I tried to reinstall them Sunday...this is the second time I've broke them...first time was I tightened them too tight...this time they were less than 20ftlbs on the allen lock...so out with the Comp BS and I've ordered some ARPs which have a 190,000 psi tensile strength.... The guy at the speedshop said he had some break on him recently too, so its not just me.

Damn that sounds like a serious problem! I didn't know those were prone to break. I was running my car hard on the street one night and missed third gear a time or two, so I'm wondering if over revving it caused my issue. I'm not sure the polylocks are hitting the valve covers, because I have already taken it off and messed with two rockers to readjust them and hand checked the others, wouldn't that have been noticable? The noise also goes away at idle when warm, but is noticable when you rev it some.

If the poly locks were cracked you would have been able to loosen them by hand, no wrench would have been needed. A header gasket leak depending on its severity may only be noticable at certain rpms. Need to carefully feel around for a leak without burning yourself.