I need to upgrade the weekest link, and after the Dana 60 and sixspeeds inc tranny, the clutch becomes the weakest link. I know that cheaper clutches will hold, but this is a daily driver. I want durability and dependability. With that said, I am prepared to shell out the cash. I know that their are specials being run by vendors and such, so Il will be watching for those.
But, to the question:
I have a daily driven 95 bird. 385 stroker, 438rwhp and 431 torque. I know cheaper clutches will hold. But I want the best.
I am trying to decide between the steel and aluminum flywheel. I want to know which one is better for my naturally aspirated car. I know they recomend the steel for over 3000 pounds, which mine obviously is. But, what whould I be giving up if I went steel?
Isn't the fact that its a twin make it about the weight of stock with the aluminum flywheel? I want good driveablility, and I realize that steel one would give me more inertia. But, when I go to the track, how much quicker would I be with the aluminum one?
Im lookin to see if anyone has experience, and which one they prefer. I hate buying the same thing twice, so I want to figure out which one I want and buy it once.
I will be going to the track occasionally, but its primarily a street car cuz I like driving it everyday. So let me know what you all think and have found out.
Thanks!
Cody

 

I went with the aluminum one because, like you said, it weights about the same as the stock setup when you add the weight of the extra disk and center plate. No trouble with lauching my 6 speed at the track with ET streets and very drivable on the street.

 

if you go drag racing you will not give up anything with a steel flywheel at the track you will probably actually gain a little due to the extra mass of the flywheel turning when you let go of the clutch. the aluminum would be better for road racing because it would allow your engine to rev quicker. for a street/strip car i would recaomend steel.

 

ok, so far this sounds great guys. I guessed that the aluminum model would make it about the stock wieght. Would the steel one make it more driveable on the street too? Did you have to rev any higher at takeoff OBE1 95Z28?

 

I have always heard that you definitely want to go with steel for any type of drag racing. Also, I have heard that the aluminum ones take a lot of "getting used to" in order to remain driveable. Most people say that once you get used to them they are not bad at all but I have no personal experience myself.

One thing I would consider is, with the aluminum, how much extra are you going to have to work/slip the clutch to get a smooth ride, and what type of additional wear this will be on the clutch compared to a steel one. If you are planning on dropping in a $600 or $700 clutch, I would want it to last as long as possible.

 

well, this unit is 1200 dollars, so yeah Im trying to look at it from every angle. I am leaning towards the steel one now for help with driveablility and stop and go traffic. I want this to be a monster, but I also dont want to be pissed off at having to drive it different and having a hurting knee... hehe.

 

Steel unless you are road racing.

Rich

 

i opted for steel.

i like it.

 

ok, great info. This makes me feel a little better about making a decision. I like to see what other people are doing and what works.

 

another vote for the steel. the street twin is an amazing clutch and the pedal pressure is perfect.

 

sweet, its good to see people liking it. I did see some that were complaining about the street twin not functioning properly right out of the box...

 

Takes a few hundred miles to break in. It's "grabby" at first.

Rich

 

oh, ok. That could be what people were complaining about... That is quite the breakin time, but eh I plan on having the dana 60 installed at the same time, so I will break it all in together..
So with breakin, is it pure driving with the clutch pedal released, or lots of engage disengagement?? Sorry if that is a dumb question, just trying to learn everything before I buy so I understand what to do.

 

Just drive it without abusing it for a few hundred miles and all will be well.

Rich

 

Well, that is simple enough. I like simple. Pretty much the same with the dana, right? Drive it and heat it up, then let it cool for a day, then cycle it warm again and let it sit, then put about 500 miles on it, drain the fluid and dump in the synthetic?