I hold clutch down for a while, then let up, hard to get into gear

If I hold the clutch down for a minute or so and the cars on, then let up it feels a little softer the next time I push it down right after, and its hard to get the car into gear its very knochy. What does this mean?

Ok, this is damn wierd I dont understand whats up either its the clutch needing bleeding or my setup not getting enough clearance/dragging.

Say I pull up to a parking gate to pay, and hold the clutch in for 30 seconds or so when the cars in neutral (dont ask me why I did this, just wasnt paying attention) so I try to put the car in gear 1st while stil holding the clutch and its like 1st gear isnt there, damn hard to get in. Usually I have to let up then push it again and It will go in but not easy. the clutch hyd system I have now is the brand new setup from GM costs around 120.00 and was suppose to be prebleed, I have un hooked the slave a couple times and let it sit unhooked for a day or so maby this is how air got in...I dont know. But it's wierd because sometimes it feels knotchy shifting, its hard to shift at high rpms, and then the whole holding down the clutch for a long time problem. Does it need bleeding. Whats the best method?

Please help as I know its eating my synchros. a

BTW I threw a ****ton of money at my damn drivetrain already:
new rebuilt t56,
new stock clutch, new lt4 pp, new pilot bushing, new GM stock flywheel.

I had similar symptoms. Turned out to be a destroyed pilot bearing.

All MT cars I've driven shift out of neutral more easily right after the clutch is depressed. I think it's because the trans input shaft is still spinning for a while, so the synchros can work. After the shaft coasts to a stop, it's notchy or won't shift. True on my Z, Saab, and bikes, too.

But, since your clutch feels softer on second engagement, if that is accurate, I'd think your hydraulics are leaking down a bit, and not recovering completely on the first pump. If you pump it a couple of times, does it engage normally?

All MT cars I've driven shift out of neutral more easily right after the clutch is depressed. I think it's because the trans input shaft is still spinning for a while, so the synchros can work. After the shaft coasts to a stop, it's notchy or won't shift. True on my Z, Saab, and bikes, too.

But, since your clutch feels softer on second engagement, if that is accurate, I'd think your hydraulics are leaking down a bit, and not recovering completely on the first pump. If you pump it a couple of times, does it engage normally?

Is it normal for the hyd to leak down a bit? It does help if I pump it a couple times to recover from the situation described above. One thing I also noticed is that when I drive to school (about 3 hours on the expressway) as soon as I get off and start doing city driving it shifts like a charm, real smooth for about 20 minutes or so then starts getting knotchy again. Any Ideas?

if you unhooked it you need to bleed. i know there are disconects to hold in the fluid, but every time i have ever disconected this style hydralic fitting it has needed bleeding afterwards.

if you unhooked it you need to bleed. i know there are disconects to hold in the fluid, but every time i have ever disconected this style hydralic fitting it has needed bleeding afterwards.

By unhooked it I mean I unbolted the slave from the bellhousing, I didn't take the slave off the system or open the system. Would just having the slave fully extended allow air in? Whats the best way to bleed it while its still on the car as taking the whole system out is a PITA

Hmm, works good after long highway, but after city driving it gets bad. Could be getting hot at low speeds (but on highway better airflow keeping it cool) , and either boiling the fluid in the line, or causing a seal to leak. Make sure it's still routed ok, not near exhaust.

Hmm, works good after long highway, but after city driving it gets bad. Could be getting hot at low speeds (but on highway better airflow keeping it cool) , and either boiling the fluid in the line, or causing a seal to leak. Make sure it's still routed ok, not near exhaust.

Well the other thing is, when I first turn the car on is when it shifts worse so it seems like after highway driving something happens that creates more separation or pressure for the hydraulic lines? I know its routed good because there really isnt any other way to route it.

Running out of ideas here. Trans full of fluid?

Running out of ideas here. Trans full of fluid?

The only thing I can think of now is that when I got the trans back after being rebuilt I filled it w/ 4 quarts from the shifter, and never checked the fill whole. People said 4 quarts is what it takes. I am going to change the fluid soon to dextron because right now their is penzoil synchromesh in it. The synchromesh stuff was expensive like $7 a quart i figured it would do a good job. Check this thread out:
http://camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=465724

I'll change the fluid and see what happens. If that doesnt help I will try to bleed the clutch. Is it possible to do that w/ out removing it from the car?

it sounds like my car is doing the same thing. it started with really just first and reverse. reverese was worse (wouldn't really go in at all. I would really have to push on the shifter and eventually I can get it to go in. now all gears are getting "notchy". it is the worst when the car is cold and better, but not great when warm. it helps if I shift as the car is rolling.

where exactly should the fluid level be in the clutch resevoir...there is a line about half way up that might be it. it seems like it might have been low..maybe it got low and got air in the system?

I would also like to know how you would want to bleed it?

thanks

well I tried to bleed it today following my haynes manual which sucks. I wasn't completely sure I was doing it right and the end result sorta proves I wasn't. The gears still feel the same but now the clutch doesn't feel right...it feels real soft.

I also have an electrical problem so I don't know what's what, but in the end my car wouldn't start...I decided to push the clutch safety button by hand then turn the ignition and sure enough it started (although cranked slow because of the electrical problem...pretty sure it's just the battery). it doesn't seem like the pedal makes it to the clutch safety start button...

My gears are still notchy and now the clutch feels messed up and the car won't start...I love screwing everything up before I actually fix something :o

well my problem was a simple fix. i bled the clutch once and then tried it again. turns out i just didn't pump all the air out the first time since there's no real way to tell...

well my problem was a simple fix. i bled the clutch once and then tried it again. turns out i just didn't pump all the air out the first time since there's no real way to tell...

Mind telling me what method you used to bleed it? Did you remove the whole assembly from the car? Thanks a lot!

i unbolted the slave cylinder from the tranny and unscrewed the resevior cap. pumped and held the slave while someone put on the resevoir cap then pumped on the slave until i couldn't stand to anymore since there's no way to see the air or bubbles....maybe ~50 pumps? there's no reason to take the whole assembly out and I didn't even loosen the master cylinder from the firewall the second time like the manual says...didn't seem to make a bit of difference.

it shifted just fine to begin with, but after driving a few days I'm not sure my problem is completely solved yet. I'll have to see...

Did anyone figure out what the problem/solution is???
My car is doing the EXACT same thing and it is very frustrating.
I'm thinking its the hydraulics need a good bleed/fluid change.....???

any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!