clattering noise in my stroker

motor only has 40miles on it......any sure fire way to tell what it is? ..its only at idle or low rpms.
rod bearing? collapsed lifter? crank? what?

I can really only hear it on the drivers side.....I cant hear it on the bottom end cause I can fire the motor and crawl under the car and put my ear right up to the oil pan and its not there.....I still have open headers so it is hard to tell where its coming from.

its been doing it for about a week.....and today its wasnt there....I had a stethascope and couldnt pin point it.......
a machanic friend of mine heard it yesterday and says its a rod bearing

I dont want to have to pull the motor or drop the pan......with the one piece rubber gasket that oil pan was a pain to get on even on the engine stand..I can only imagine under the car.

what do I look for?

I spent alot of money on this puppy...and Im pissed!

heres the motor

383 stroker
HSR intake
AFR 195's 65cc heads making it 10.6:1 comp
KB 7cc flat tops pistons
6" forged rods
58mm BBK TB
30lb injectors
226/233 535/537 114.5 custom caminnovation cam
COMP push rods, retro lifters, and 1.52 pro magnum rockers
hooker super comp LT's and a Borla waiting to go on

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1069.jpg

Does it sound like a low frequency knock, kind of like hammer hitting a large solid chunk of metal?

If a bearing has burned up you will find metal particles galore in the oil which I would go ahead and drain RIGHT NOW.

Most likely mains but it could be rods too, but if the sound comes and goes it should be something else.

How can you diagnose ANYTHING with open headers? Put the exhaust on and it will help ALOT!


If this is a stroker motor your crank may be hitting the pan, and it may have eh hemmm clearanced itself.


BTW sweet engine.....put the correct top rad hose on it...geeez that looks like some uncle Jessie crap.

David

Do you have a windage tray in the pan? Those gaskets aren't that hard to mess with either. Did you tack weld the pick up on the pump?

I drained the oil again...makes the 5th time...and there was no metal in it at all.....and yes the pump was welded and yes I have a windage tray in the pan....I was running rotella oil and the guy at AZ says to just use convetional Valvoline 30..so thats whats in there now...and I got an extra capacity filter.

Are you sure the rod bolts are clearing the windage tray? I had that problem with my motor and I had to drop the pan to take out the tray like 30 minutes after I got the motor in.

it never made that noise until like a week ago.....I took it to about 3/4 throttle...rpm's...I have no clue I wasnt watchin.
its like a clattering noise....like something is loose in there.....Im taking it tomorrow to Firestone to have the front end aligned......and I'll ask my front end guy what it is......it will be the longest trip the car has gone .....28miles each way.

my luck I'll throw a rod on the way there..

Is the car a 6spd or auto? If it's a 6spd, does the noise go away when you depress the clutch? If it's an auto, is the flywheel bolted down tight.

OK..exhaust is on...I drove it 110 miles each way to have mandrel tubes put on....and when I fired it up....the sound is coming from ALL OVER the torque converter, flywheel area......SOmthing sounds likes it going to rip the freaking things apart when u crank it and at idle...and when you give it gas.......I drove it back the 110 miles and it is...and it sounds like chit!....

so where do I start looking? I know the trannys got to come out......

we had it up on the lift at the exhaust shop and I was right there at it....I fired it up and we raised it back up....in that area it sounds likes it gonna fly apart like the whole thing is about to explode in a million pieces.

i'll get a sound clip tomorrow and post it.

OK..exhaust is on...I drove it 110 miles each way to have mandrel tubes put on....and when I fired it up....the sound is coming from ALL OVER the torque converter, flywheel area......SOmthing sounds likes it going to rip the freaking things apart when u crank it and at idle...and when you give it gas.......I drove it back the 110 miles and it is...and it sounds like chit!....

so where do I start looking? I know the trannys got to come out......

we had it up on the lift at the exhaust shop and I was right there at it....I fired it up and we raised it back up....in that area it sounds likes it gonna fly apart like the whole thing is about to explode in a million pieces.

i'll get a sound clip tomorrow and post it.

Loose flywheel bolts, loose converter bolts, bad stator in the converter, bad front pump in trans.

Start in those places.

David

the noise can be heard when the starter first engages the flexplate.....without the motor even running. You know like when trying to crank a motor over with no fuel or spark....and then once the motor fires the sounds stays and becomes very loud and like something is going to fly apart....
When it was up on the lift I had the motor running and looked to make sure the starter was not engaged or anything..or any part of the started near the flex....we also tightened the TQC bolts...

of course now the more I drive it the more it makes noise....and clatters and rattles and .....one day something is gonna come apart...I just know...

This noise started once I took the car up in the RPM's and went 3/4 throttle....actin a fool!....
at the time only had 40miles on the motor, flex and TQC.....the car now has about 300miles

the sound was not there at all during the first 40miles.

Take the torque converter bolts out and start it.....it will tell you if it is in the engine or torque converter/trans.


David

will the converter still spin alittle? doing that wont hurt anything?

I'll do that when I get home tonight!

lets just say it wasnt the converter or flexplate?...what else could it be? that would do that in the same location as the 2.

ok heres the noise video...its alot louder and more clattering when I put it into gear....sound quality sucks with this camcorder...its really loud in person.


http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/th_MOV02363.jpg (http://s147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/?action=view&current=MOV02363.flv)

can u tell what it is?
Im going to drive it tomorrow to a trans shop but thats like 30miles away...I live out in the sticks.

DId you take the converter bolts out? That will tell you ALOT. If it quits, pull the trans pan and see whats in there, if it dont, pull the oil filter, cut it open, see whats in there.


I would not drive that car ANYWHERE! Unless you got deep pockets. Trans failure could mean a fire, engine problem could be catastrophic. You got good oil pressure? Take the converter bolts out and start the car.....do not rev the car or put it in gear, just start it.

David

I changed the oil filter and oil two days ago...long after it started the noise and there was no metal at all in either the filter or the oil.

Another vote for flexplate and or convertor bolts working themselves loose after you started driving it. Do not drive the car, you will only screw it up. Just jack it up like you are going to change the oil, take off the inspection cover, and bump the motor over and unbolt the convertor from the flexplate. On my old T/A it was only 3 bolts. You should be able to tell easily if your flexplate is loose or if your convertor bolts were loose.

I drove it here to work and stopped by a tranny shop....just from hearing me pull up the guy says it more than likely my flexplate is cracked right there where it bolts to the crank.....and the reason its louder and more clattering when Im in gear and idling is because there is a load on it and the reason my motor jumps around it because its throwing it out of balance........he didnt have time to get it up on the lift to be sure and I only had 30mins for lunch....so I guess I'll go home and take the TQC bolts out and crank it up....he says if it is the flex...I should be able to see and hear it ....

and then ofcourse he says it could be the TQC...but his first thought was the flex...because of the sound when I drove up.


how could a brand new TCI flexplate crack in just 40miles?

Personally I don't trust transmission shops, but that's just me. In my book they are the biggest scam artists. I might could see the flexplate cracking because of the convertor bolts being loose and you jumping on it when you first got the car running, coupled with you driving on it hundreds of miles with it making the noise.....maybe. Just jack it up and look at it, the more you drive it around the worse it's going to get....so quit driving around wondering what's wrong and if it going to leave you stranded on the side of the road. Either you tighten the bolts for free, replace the flexplate for like 40 bucks or keep driving on it asking everyone whats wrong and end up screwing up your engine and or tranny.

Personally I don't trust transmission shops, but that's just me. In my book they are the biggest scam artists. I might could see the flexplate cracking because of the convertor bolts being loose and you jumping on it when you first got the car running, coupled with you driving on it hundreds of miles with it making the noise.....maybe. Just jack it up and look at it, the more you drive it around the worse it's going to get....so quit driving around wondering what's wrong and if it going to leave you stranded on the side of the road. Either you tighten the bolts for free, replace the flexplate for like 40 bucks or keep driving on it asking everyone whats wrong and end up screwing up your engine and or tranny.

That's good advice right there.

If you weren't 4 hours away from me I would lend you a hand. You're just south of Mount Airy right?

YEP!!!....flexplate!....all the flex bolts have pulled out of the crank end about a 1/2 inch! and egg shaped all the holes...DAMN DAMN DAMN DAMN!!!!!

this thing is a never ending project.....:cry: ...LOL...

Oh well, Im going to drop the trans and then pull the motor out too....Motor is leaking oil every freaking where!!!..PAN and timing cover and I think the back of the intake......my whole underside is coated with oil....and thats one thing I hate...I ****in drippin car........so I guess the car is under the knife again for the next month or so..

ok guys..thanks for the tips....I'll ask more question as I get to em...

:bow:

Two words for you:

Blue Loctite



carry on.


David

OK...got the trans dropped.......here's what I found!
most of the bolt holes on the flex were egged....and on the back of the TQC you can see where the bolts were hitting...the C was actually keeping the flex from coming all the way off....do you think my TQC is ok with the cuts? ..didnt throw it out of balance? Im going to sand those cuts flat....

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1330.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1329.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1332.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1331.jpg

What are you using for flywheel bolts? They were not tight. Do not re-use that flexplate, trash can it. Get some ARP 12 point flywheel bolts, go to Sears and buy a 12 point 11/16 socket and grind it down so it will fit in between the bolt and the end of the crank. Use Blue Loctite.


I would get a tranny shop to eyeball that converter.



David

yeah I wasnt planning on reusing that flex....I need to buy another but I cant remember what I need... I know I need the 153 tooth neutral balance......but I cant remember if I need the 1 piece rear main or 2 peice......

help me out here.......its an older style 3970010 4bolt main block if that matters

Define older style. I think up to 86 they were 2 piece and after that they are one piece. I see the sticker is still on the old one, can you look at a part# on it to be sure or is it not there or not legible?

older style meaning its an early model block...3970010 is like an 80 block or something....that sticker on the flex is just the SFI spec sticker....doesnt have a part number...but it was a TCI plate.

Dude, you can LOOK at the rear main and SEE if it is a one or two piece. You have the flywheel off, you can look right at it.


David

LOL...I know but I dont know what Im looking for....you got to bare with me...Im new at this engine building stuff and still learning...late in my days but learning...sorry

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1378.jpg

http://i147.photobucket.com/albums/r295/wishmaster8/IMG_1377.jpg

Yours is a two piece rear main seal. You can tell by the flange that the flexplate bolts to. If it's round than it is one piece. If it's not round than it is a two piece.
Your block is also an 010 block which was made from about 1969-1980. They started making one piece rear main seals around 1985.

thankyou!!!!!!