Boost and cranksase ventilation.

With a Boosted motor what is the most efficient way to releave crankcase pressures. Is the OEM design PCV system efficent enough for 8,9,1000+ HP?

I had a discussion with my step dad about welding a 3/4" bung into each valve cover and then routing each side with- 12 line to their own breather tanks. He said that wouldn't be enough. You'd need 2 bungs per side and a total of 4 -12 lines to 4 breather tanks to be efficent. I think that is way overkill and a big waste of resources. If thats the case might as well use a vacum pump. What should I do?

Don't know how much it is good for. My D1SC setup has two vent lines that go down to the air inlet tube near the air filter to help relieve the pressure. Vented valve covers also will help. Mine does fine and did just under 600 to the wheels.

Thanks for the reply. I also have a D1-SC, and I just don't want any problems. Anybody else have any ideas?

If you haven't yet, you may want to check out my post about my dyno. Interesting stuff on the new air inlet tube for the D1SC.

Yeah I read that post. That's a nice inlet.

I run a vent line from the passenger side valve cover to an oil catch can then down to the inlet tube on the blower. This stopped various oil leaks but I get so much blowby that the inlet tube and MAF become coated with oil. Won't be long before I need a rebuild - i'm sure it's gonna pop soon.

I run a vent line from the passenger side valve cover to an oil catch can then down to the inlet tube on the blower. This stopped various oil leaks but I get so much blowby that the inlet tube and MAF become coated with oil. Won't be long before I need a rebuild - i'm sure it's gonna pop soon.

You see that's what I'm afraid of OIL LEAKS!!!! I want somthing that won't blow any gaskets and no oil will be visable on the outside of the motor.

Without the vent the car leaked from everywhere - and I do mean everywhere. You better vent it - IMO

With only an A-Trim running 7psi, with a standard valve cover breather (not running the breather hose to the intake tube pre-supercharger) it would blow oil past the front and rear main seals everytime you went WOT. Even after replacing seals, it still blew out the rear main. Now this was on a tired motor that shortly thereafter broke ringlands. I recently swapped in a new shortblock, gone WOT a few times, and it appears its starting to push a small amount of oil past the front main seal. I'm going to install the Crankcase pressure evacuation system from Mr. Gasket. I've heard only success stories with this setup. It was only $40 after shipping from Jegs. Not sure if you've looked into that, but it seems to utilize the massive amount of vacuum created by the exhaust flow, so it seems hard to beat. Maybe something for you to look into...

BTW...there's a ton of threads discussing this on the board...i recommend a search...;)

With only an A-Trim running 7psi, with a standard valve cover breather (not running the breather hose to the intake tube pre-supercharger) it would blow oil past the front and rear main seals everytime you went WOT. Even after replacing seals, it still blew out the rear main. Now this was on a tired motor that shortly thereafter broke ringlands. I recently swapped in a new shortblock, gone WOT a few times, and it appears its starting to push a small amount of oil past the front main seal. I'm going to install the Crankcase pressure evacuation system from Mr. Gasket. I've heard only success stories with this setup. It was only $40 after shipping from Jegs. Not sure if you've looked into that, but it seems to utilize the massive amount of vacuum created by the exhaust flow, so it seems hard to beat. Maybe something for you to look into...

BTW...there's a ton of threads discussing this on the board...i recommend a search...;)

My impression from what I've read on the Mr Gasket/Moroso kits are they only pull crankcase pressure at higher rpm? Maybe I misinterpreted this info? What about at Idle and cruising speeds?

Yep, well high RPM, or high engine load...if you go WOT I imagine it'll be pushing enough exhaust to create a vacuum, how strong at low RPM I'm not sure...Maybe someone who actually runs this setup will chime in. I'm also curious where the best place to weld in the tubes will be for max ventilation...

Woah...I uh just looked at you're car domain and such..and paid attn to you're first post...not sure if any of my experiences /nor info really applys to you're application...800+ hp I imagine is whole 'nother ball game when it comes to crankcase ventilation...good luck...

OK I'm the dumb one here and quick to ask. I understand where the 2 breathers go on the VC's w/ the grommets, but where do the 4 remaining pieces go as summit's site is ambiguous w/ the details.
Do you also put small filters on the nipples of those breathers or they're just left open like that?

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-120108.jpg

I know on my setup, there is two addtional places to vent on the drivers side of the intake manifold. These two places vent from the intake manifold through two different rubber hoses to the inlet tube to my D1SC. When I get my new inlet tube in there I will definatly also incorporate these vent hoses into my new tube near the air filter. Any ventalaiton you can give your motor, the better off you are. The ones on the valve covers help, but may not be enough to preven leaks, especially on a tired blown motor!

OK I'm the dumb one here and quick to ask. I understand where the 2 breathers go on the VC's w/ the grommets, but where do the 4 remaining pieces go as summit's site is ambiguous w/ the details.
Do you also put small filters on the nipples of those breathers or they're just left open like that?

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-120108.jpg


Isn't that the kit that you weld to the headers for crankcase evac?

Yep, it's my understanding that the "chrome breathers" go into the valve covers with those rubber gromets, followed by those "flutted" looking longer tubes being welded into the exhaust manifold/headers at an optimal angle for max vacuum. Then you take those "mushroom" looking short tubes and thread them onto the long tubes you just welded to your exhaust. Now you take heater hose and connect the outlet on the breathers in your valve cover, to the inlet on each mushroom...I havn't looked into it, but I imagine those mushroom's are just one way valves to prevent exhaust reverse flowing into you're crankcase...

If someone has pics of an installed setup, that'd be nice...;)

So those fluted tubes where exactly is the best location to have them welded on the headers? I think I'm going to try this but I see what my 2 breathers will do 1st.

So is this the only way to go or what?

So those fluted tubes where exactly is the best location to have them welded on the headers? I think I'm going to try this but I see what my 2 breathers will do 1st.I would atleast put them after your 02's.

Ya, you can kiss you O2's goodbye as well as your catalytic converters if you still have them with that exhaust evac system.

I've had excellent results with my current setup. No oil leaks. No MAF problems. Nice clean oil.

Drivers side PCV valve is left completely stock(one way check valve no boost leak). Passenger side valve cover gets routed to the intake side of the blower with a compressor oil/water separator inline. Check ProjectTransAM.com for info on the separator.

The reason this works so well is at idle and light throttle your PCV valve pulls good vacuum. At wide open throttle your supercharger intake pulls good vacuum. You've got vacuum on your engine all the time.

I've got 20,000 miles on my car using this system with no problems.:)

I searched all over the place for that info. Got a user name for the info you described 97WS6Pilot? Oops never mind. Found it. :D

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/sum-120108.jpg
>don't our cars already come with all this except the second valve cover breather?

>here's is an old photo of my engine w/ the T-trim (notice the "filters" that connect to he headers)
http://i5.tinypic.com/20rpvv6.jpg

>her is an even older pix with my nitrous set up... but notice the "filter" connecting to my Edlebrock shorties from air pump
http://i5.tinypic.com/20rpy1c.jpg

[QUOTE=bowtiepwr]>her is an even older pix with my nitrous set up... but notice the "filter" connecting to my Edlebrock shorties from air pump


Those are actually one way check valves for the AIR System. If you don't need your O2's or Cats that will provide an excellent vacuum source at idle. I'm not sure about a wot vacuum source. BTW Nice looking valve covers. Are they composite? :)

>those are stock cover stripped and powered coated.

check valves... so are they check valves in the crankcase ventilation kit too?

Here is a pic of my passenger side breather hose.:)

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/9/web/2373000-2373999/2373730_5_full.jpg

Hmm....

I only have the PCV valve on the passenger valve cover, and a breather/filter on the oil cap location... nothing on the driver's valve cover. Is there supposed to be something there? Noticed a bit of oil leaking from a few locations after my first WOT run (finally have fuel pressure problem fixed...)

Jonota

I went with a capture tank rather than routing the oil back through the motor. I plummed both breather and intake tubing from passenger side valve cover together with a T-fitting and then routed it to the capture tank. I don't like routing the oilly air back through the motor. Even Normally aspirated, the stroker would coated the inside of the intake with oil. Now I'm running the 8lbs pulleys on the D1SC and have seen booSST over 10lbs at 5,800. Just curious if a vacuum setup necessary with a capture tank and venting? (LT1).

Also, if the oil recirculates and coats the MAF, you run the risk of going lean. I recently had a seal go in the D1SC and 4oz of blower oil got blown through the intercooler maf and motor. Burnt #4 piston due to an extremely lean condition. (I yanked the motor this weekend...that was fun). Recommend cleaning the MAF regularly if you are recirculating.

where do everyones pcv valve vent to? mine is routed back into a fitting right next to it. does anyone know where that fitting goes?

a panavac system will work well on a n/a engine....

I just hook mine up to the intake side of the blower

Hmm....

I only have the PCV valve on the passenger valve cover, and a breather/filter on the oil cap location... nothing on the driver's valve cover. Is there supposed to be something there? Noticed a bit of oil leaking from a few locations after my first WOT run (finally have fuel pressure problem fixed...)

Jonota

Thats not the pcv valve in your passenger cover. PCV valve is on the drivers side of the intake manifold and sucks air from the lifter valley.;)

a panavac system will work well on a n/a engine....

I just hook mine up to the intake side of the blower
Any more info on this?
I don't have a blower on yet but I've been thinking about putting a 3/4" or so fitting on the pan for the oil return with a "T" fitting close to the pan. One side would run up to a breather or maybe oil separator. That way the blower never would get any pressure from the crankcase either.

My apologies... I sometimes mix the breather hose and PCV since they do similar functions.. anyone have an answer to my question? Or a pic of their driver's valve cover?

Jonota

My apologies... I sometimes mix the breather hose and PCV since they do similar functions.. anyone have an answer to my question? Or a pic of their driver's valve cover?

Jonota

I don't have anything on my drivers side valve cover. I got rid of the breather that procharger supplied for the oil filler cap. It would drip oil after WOT runs.:)

Today I finished the install of the Mr. Gasket Crankcase ventilation system. And man does it suck (in the good way)...I had the local exhaust shop weld the fluted tubes at a 45* angle into the header collecters a few inches past my 02's. Threaded on the inlcuded 1-way valves and connected 5/8's inch heater tubing to the inlet of each valve, I ran this tubing up hugging the bellhousing/firewall. The Mr. Gasket Kit requires you to drill 1.22inch holes into your valve covers to use their breathers. I opted not to do this since I had a spare set of valve covers, I put a (passenger) valve cover onto the driver side head, so now I have a stock breather location (and oil fill cap) on both valve covers, I then went and purchased a 5/8's to 3/4in reducer fitting to connect the 5/8inch heater hose to the 3/4 outlet of each valve cover. There is no breather inline to my system, but I havn't witnessed any signs of oil getting past the tubbing yet. (a.k.a. no blue smoke)

If you guys would like I can post pictures that better explain this. The point is, even at Idle I can pull one of these tubes out the valve cover and it'll suck you're finger to it. Bring the revs up and it really starts to move air. I imagine under WOT under load it's a hard system to beat. I've done half a dozen WOT runs to 80ish today, and havn't noticed any oil pushing past my front main....granted it's only been a day, but I think it may have solved my leak problem...

This was a cheap install, not very difficult, and it puts the dirty air out my exhaust not in my intake...so even if it starts to suck a lil' oil, I don't see it hurting anything...no maf's to dirty in the exhaust;) ...

Where did you get this system at?

Jonota

Jegs...earlier in this post I believe I mentioned that...its the kit that's pictured on the earlier pages...the Crankcase Evac System...40 bucks after shipping if it's the only thing you buy...After installing it, it's pretty obvious this would be very simple to make yourself, hardest part would be choosing what 1-way valve to use...

Even though I know what this looks like now through some pics up for GP Americanmuscle if you don't mind. Glad this has worked out for you too.
Thanks.

Here ya go:
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/mendenhall3/Evac1.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/mendenhall3/Evac2.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/mendenhall3/Evac3.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/mendenhall3/Evac4.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/mendenhall3/Evac5.jpg
http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h289/mendenhall3/Evac6.jpg

AmericanMuscle33- That looks pretty sweet. Did those breather tubes (3/4" to 5/8" connector) come in the Mr Gasket kit? How about the Mushroom breathers? What are you doing with them? Your getting good vacum at idle?

The 3/4 to 5/8's plastic tubes came from napa for 'bout $3.00. They're called heater hose connectors. The mushroom looking breathers are 1-way check valves, and yes they came in the Mr. Gasket kit. The kit comes with everything needed to drill holes in the valve covers and use they're breathers and gromets...I just opted to not do any drilling since I had a spare pass valve cover. And yes, I was getting excellent vacuum at idle. Hope this helps...Oh, and I have a ton more pictures, if you guys need anything else cleared up, ask, or PM me...

BTW: on a side note, this may have been a short lived success, I think i toasted my second shortblock in 3months coming home tonight...I'll be posting in another section of the board, but I'm pretty sure I shattered ringlands again. Chug-o-death, round 2...:cry:

Thanks Americanmuscle 383! I guess my only question is why are the flutes welded back vs w/ the outflow of the exhaust, does it matter?

Sorry to hear bout' the engine too and I hope it's not as bad as you suggested.

The flutes are pointed towards the back of the car (going with the flow of exhaust, rather than facing it). What this does is causes the air to flow around the flute, creating low pressure area...this large amount of low pressure is what creates the vacuum effect. If you pointed the flute upstream, exhaust would attempt to flow through it, a.k.a. filling the crankcase with pressure and dirty exhaust, rather than vice versa. The 1-way check valves ensure you get zero backflow of exhaust into you're crankcase.

Thanks for the wishfull thinking...but I'm pretty sure the car is done...once again...I'll take a closer look tomorrow, but its looking like I'll be forced to part things out in order to pay for this...I'll make a post tomorrow explaining everything...My scanmaster datalogged some weird stuff when it let go...I have a feeling the tuning on my ECU is to blame for bad timing, and two blown shortblocks...:mad: ...I'm not going to go around pointing fingers, this is what I get for boosting stock things...

i did a search and came up with nothing rocksolid as in what to do...

what i was figuring to do was weld 2 10an bungs one to the driver side the other to the pass side valve covers to a vented catch can with a drain petcock at the bottom of it...into something like this

http://www.allstarperformance.com/product.htm?prod=26

then my problem is what do i do about a vaccum source off the intake to get the contaminants out of the oil and system. i read to leave the pcv valve in place then add a oil/water separator in line then hook up to inlet side of the TURBOS....but heres my problem i dont want oil in my IC or in my TURBOS at all only whats supposed to be in there lubricating it but not through the intake passages

what do i do on this end to pull vacuum w/o using the inlet of the turbo will i be forced to use a seperate vacum motor to vent contaminants from the system...but then they said i would need to add a checkvalve inline to the seperator..
plus i would have to weld the pcv port on the intake shut in order to delete it, is there another way to go about providing a vacuum source to do so.

any help would be greatly apprecaited.

me and jeff gilbert both run the mr gasket set up, it works very good

I'm still running the Mr. Gasket setup. However, now it's on a supercharged 396. The header collectors provide an excellent vacuum source (via flutes), like previously mentioned.

Man the whole Crankcase Vent system is something that I am still pondering on, lol. Car is basically almost finshed (some Kooks, Spohn 4L80E Driveshaft, and Lonnies Duel intake pumps).
I have thought about doing the 1way check valve from each valvecover to the header but I was wondering if that would create any long term problems or if it was more feasible on a track car than a Daily Driver??

I was personally thinking of plugging the valvecovers (no filters) and running a -10 line from the PCV on the intake with a 1 way checkvalve and and a oil/air seperator to the suckside of the blower (self contained D1SC)? This way as RPM increases the blower would pull crankcase(just like the exhaust idea).