Bad ESC Fusible link or Fan link?

I know there are a million of these posts but this one seems unique...just like all the other 3rd gen wiring issues lol.

One day my ESC threw my engines timing way off. Which blew my CAT all to peices, so i bypassed it with the White/Brown connector, and sure enough it starts right up. I'm not sure what to make of that. Another suspect i have is a blown red fusible link on the passenger side of the firewall. I'm not sure what it goes to. Could it be possibly that I am dealing with a blow fan fusible link, and a fried ESC module. If so how are the fusible links replaced...I've been hard pressed to find any replacements other than a smaller gauge wire that will blow before the larger gauge wire blows i assume? I am posting pics to help anyone out who can provide help, this car was abused and it needs some wiring help aparently...looks like a disconected O2 seonsor aparently...not sure what it plugs into....
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/elementaltoad/Aug11148.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d18/elementaltoad/Aug11152.jpg

I have the same thing as pic #1, and pic #2 looks like a temp sender wire...

Oh, and I have no idea what pic #1 is of, but nothing is wrong with my car, so I am not sure. Looks like it got super hot at one point, but I know that doesn't really help...

actaully that may help me, if its my temp sender wire that would explain the sporadic bouncing of my gauge? or possibly why my second fan never works, the second wire is a pigtail from an O2 sensor, but im not sure where it connects to....:confused:

the Pic #1 is of what i think may be the "hot" wire to the secondary fan or my temprature sensor gauge, not too sure at this point though. But my theory was with my O2 sensor dissconected like that, it could be why my timing is thrown off when i have my ESC connected because it receives no signal from the O2 sensor?

Pic #1 is a signal from the coil driving the tachometer. How well does your tach work ;) ?

Pic #2 looks exactly like the wire for the coolant temp sensor that drives your temp gauge (not to be confused with the coolant temp sensor on the front of the block that sends info to the ECM). I had this disconnected on my car for the longest time and I wondered why my temp gauge didn't work.

Odd thing is my tach works fine....Very accurate i would say. My Temp gauge never works however, sometimes it will bounce around and do the "test sweep" but wont register a temp. Pic #2 is connected to the O2 sensor though and somthing else so you may be right on it being the temp sensor. I have a wiring chart but it doesnt help me at all considering the wiring is shrouded in a sheath. But where might the Temp sensor pigtail i was holding connect?

Ok Pic #1 is what appears to be a chared orange Coolant fan relay wire, and Pic #2 is what appears to be a DRK Green temp connector, can anyone confirm this and does anyone know where the drk green wire should connect to? :confused:

I'm suprised that pic #1 is not the tach wire but if your tach is working fine then you are definitely right. As for the engine temp gauge wire, it connects to the head between cylinder #1 and #3 down by the spark plugs.

pic #1 might be the power supply for the hood light.

pic #1 might be the power supply for the hood light.
I think it is the power feed for the blower high relay

Ok ill econnect the temp wire and see if my gauge starts to register, as for the Hood light it is a possibility...as i have never had a hood light on. But my concern was that the secondary fan was not working at all leading my car to overheat, but im not sure that there was an orange fusible in the line for the fan.

I think it is the power feed for the blower high relay
now that i think about it your right, the hood feed is black/red wire, but the connector is in the same general area. as for the fuse links, most are by the battery, and the others are down by the starter. also, did you check the 25 amp fuse in that individual fuse holder by the battery? i believe that has somthing to do with the fan circuit if i remember my wiring diagrams right.

thanks

But my concern was that the secondary fan was not working at all leading my car to overheat, but im not sure that there was an orange fusible in the line for the fan.

Isn't the secondary supposed to come on when the AC is on. That's what I was told by my Auto Electric guy. If the AC is low on Freon he says that will prevent it from coming also.

The secondary fan wil indeed come on with the AC, but it should also come on at like 250 degrees or something. I don't remember the exact temp, but it is far higher than I would like.

Do you know where the Thermostat for the second is? Do you have any documentation for it coming on at 250° so I can show it to ny Auto Electric guy?

Thanks

Do you know where the Thermostat for the second is? Do you have any documentation for it coming on at 250° so I can show it to ny Auto Electric guy?

Thanks

secondary turn on is 236* F

I have no solid documentation on the secondary fan switch but I do know that the operation of both fans is controlled by the computer and is driven by the coolant temp sensor on the front of the block. You can always either reprogram the computer to run the fans at a lower temp (expensive/better) or rewire the fans to run all the time or by a switch (cheap).

I have no solid documentation on the secondary fan switch but I do know that the operation of both fans is controlled by the computer and is driven by the coolant temp sensor on the front of the block. You can always either reprogram the computer to run the fans at a lower temp (expensive/better) or rewire the fans to run all the time or by a switch (cheap).
on a 89(like his) the primary is controlled by the ECM, secondary is controlled by a temp fan switch in the passenger side head and A/C


the fuseable links for the fans are coming off a junction stud near the battery(IIRC), mounted next to the radiator


the fuse holder behind the batt is for thr fuel pump

man wish i had as good of a memory as you have, i have to dust off the wiring books to refresh mine. Also, go to oriely auto parts and take the fan switch for the secondary fan with you, and have them look through their book to find a lower temp switch that will fit in the head. this will make the fan come on at a lower temp (say 205 instead of 236), but you may have to bypass the low side pressure switch in the ac system and unplug your compressor if you are low on R 12. 12 around here has come down in price, but finding it is next to impossible, so if you want ac you might consider a complete system upgrade to r 134 at this time.

thanks

Well the sensor on the drivers side right beneath the exhaust manifold between cylinder 1 and 3 i think is disconnected, and there is a drk green wire laying there with a O2 sensor connected to it, but i cant see that sensor beneath the manifold to connect it and im not sure what it is although i assume it is the sender for my temp gauge? anyway i am low on freon and havent used my AC in a while because of that. Im just going to replace that fusible link with a smaller gauge wire and see what kinda damage that does. Thanks for the help guys, the only problem i have left is that i cant find out what that drk green wire connects to since the sensor has a round connector head on it and the drk green wire has a clip connector on it.

The round connector with a clip on it I think goes to the pressure sensor on the AC tubes.

the drk green wire is the temp sender wire, factory sending units use the round head, aftermarket use a normal spade terminal. try sliding the terminal of the drk green wire onto the sender sideways, it will fit, just look at the sender and pretend the round flat stands up vertical instead of horizontal.
parts stores sell rolls of fusible link in the fuse or help section, its only like 7 bucks for a long roll of it, much better than rigging it up with the wrong stuff (you could melt the power wire that could be shorted out from the short all the way back to the power source, which will usually damage wires around the melted wire) and cause lots more trouble than could be avoided by spending 7 bucks in the first place.
good luck

azzkker, right on. The drk green wire did go right onto the round terminal and i think my gauge works properly now i havent had the chance to get it really warm yet (battery cells are ruptured from the accident) so it wont hold enough charge to start most of the time. Aparently my ESC is bad however, when i reconnected the tan/white wire by the pass. firewall it refused to idle properly and constantly backfired, so im leaving it bypassed and replacing the ESC module........but while i was at fixing things i replaced the headlight gear pucks with slices of a gluestick, works perfect lmao. I love working on these cars :rolleyes:

no problem

Thanks guys for all the help i had time to run the car today and tested the temp gauge it works! And damn accurate too. Anyhow can anyone tell me what all operates off of the fuse that controls the horn and curtesy lights? It seemed that with that fuse plugged in the car ran fine. Also the tan/black wire that controls the EST bypass is run to the ignition module in the distributor isnt it? I have it bypassed because it throws my timing into a tantrum for some odd reason. God bless all of ya, aparently there is nothing that cant be fixed witha lil advice and internet research!