Tell me if I'm right?

Check my sig out what you think I'm getting for HP I'm guessing 325-330,I did the FRA mod,MTI lid w/paper filter and a flowmaster CB can someone see if I'm guessing right thanks..

Well, first off, I hope you're not saying that you installed LS6 intake since you already had one being a '02 model. Also, the flowmaster probably actually robbed you some horsepower. I'd say 305-315 rwhp without a tune.

BTW, the LS1 is a 346 not a 350.

Blowmaster = -hp

I'd say 305-325. You may have a factory turd or a factory freak.

BTW, just saying its an 02 means it has an LS6 intake. You're being redundant, or did you buy one to put on the car?
and the LS1 is NOT A 350!!!!!!

Wow, almost identical lines of thought. lol

OK I fixed my sig I knew it was a 346 I was just rounding it off anyways as far as my ? is I'm estimating 322 because it came 310 stock so the FRA is about 5hp and the lid is another 7hp and flowmaster CB they say is good for 7hp which adds to 322 HP help me if I'm wrong...

First off, those numbers are flywheel horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower. Second, mods don't just add up like that. Those numbers would be if they were the only mod on the car.

So, if your car was bone stock and you added the FRA, you might see 5 hp.
If your car was bone stock and you added the flowmaster, you might see 7 hp.
If your car was bone stock and you added FRA and flowmaster, you might see 10 hp.

If we're talking about flywheel horsepower, then your car was already at about 350-360 stock. These cars are very underrated by GM.

so if it is 350-360 flywheel stock then would it be 310 rwhp and yes those are my only mods so rwhp what am I looking at with those mods?

so the FRA is about 5hp and the lid is another 7hp and flowmaster CB they say is good for 7hp which adds to 322 HP help me if I'm wrong...

Can you say "Ricer math"?

Bert I'm just asking a question to see where I'm at for RWHP thank you.

Just remember that you can't rely on the advertised "horsepower gains" at all.

Ok then noone is answering my question I'll ask it again does anyone know what I'm getting for RWHP with my mods?

I'll stand by my original statement and say 305-315. You'd see another 10 or so from a tune alone.

Why would I need a tune for those little mods and why would you say 305 when it comes 310 stock..

Why not dyno it, and then tell everybody?

cause he's saying rear wheel power

are you an auto or manual??

bone stock you dynoed anywhere from say 290-315rwhp depending on trans and "freak" factor of the engine.

so given the mods...they total maybe 10-15hp total

so that means at the rear wheels you are making anywhere from 300-330hp. you can see how difficult it is to answer a question like that. you can probably dyno 10 cars, all bone stock and get 10 different power levels.

Teke it is a auto and so your saying every car is different when dynoed I guess I'll have to find a dyno shop and see for myself I'm gonna guess 315-320 I'll let you know..

auto definately makes a difference on what it dynos. but remember dyno numbers don't do squat on the track. it's all about how you transfer the pwer to the ground.

but i would say an 02 Z28 auto trans, lid and flowmaster catback will dyno about 315hp to the wheels

throw a $35 cutout on it and i'd be willing to guess closer to 325hp.

so i think your guess is about right. but don't freak out if it's lower. track times are what you brag with...not dyno results.

i'd guess 315rwhp on a dynojet not a mustang.also keep in mind you'll see no gain from ramair on a dyno or under 75mph or so.he's right about the tune. factory are pretty conservative.

Thanks guys I found a dyno shop I will find out anyways how much would a tune cost with just those 2 mods or should I wait until I do more mods....And also your saying ram air would not show anything on a dyno even the ssra with the big fan on the dyno..

not sure if a dyno tune is really worth it. maybe just a mail order tune from a place like pcmforless or madz28. they are usualy worth about 12-15hp on stock and mild modded cars. plus added drivability.

i think even with a fan there wouldn't be enough air moving to create a ram air affect. i don't really think the ram air takes affect till 75+mph, which is a little more than most fans can blow.

keep us posted on the dyno results, hopefully you prove us a few hp low on our estimation.

teke when would a dyno tune be worth it and how much would a tune cost for those two mods now do I need to send in my computer from the car how does it work.

dyno tunes usually run $300-500 give or take, while mail order tunes are $200-250 i think.

i don't think there is much to be gained from doing the dyno tune. the mods you have don't really change the a/f that much that the fine tuning of the dyno tune would help much over the standard tweaking of a mail order.

dyno tune really comes into affect when you mess with the cam or if you SC the car. mods that REALLY affect the a/f ratios and things like that.

usually you order your tuned ECM, and pay a core. then they ship you an ECM and you swap them out, box up your old ECM and ship it back and get the core charge refunded.

look into www.madz28.com Ion is a great tuner, he has quite a following on the board.

Teke there are different options to tune which ones would I tune with those 2 mods I have?

where are you located? if a track is open take it out and run it.usally about 25.00-50.00 bucks. your times will tell you your driving skills and your mph will give a good indication of your hp.if braggin rights are what your looking for then dyno the car. if performance is your goal, race it.hp doesn't matter if you can't get it to the ground. these cars even with stock power are a challenge to drive on street skins.

Glad to see you edited out "350 LS1" from your signature. ;)

The Flowmaster is not the end of the world. Yes, it's the wrong direction (you lost power) if you're trying to make the car perform better, but they do sound nice with cats. You can always install a cutout before the muffler and you'll experience some nice gains when it's uncorked. (in fact PM me about the cutout. I have a spare one).

If your car is an auto a stall converter should be your next mod. I'd get a stall before a tune any day of the week. You'll be amazed with the SOTP increase. I wouldn't touch the factory gears until they break, but run some DRs if you're into taking off from a roll. After a set of long tubes go on your car, then I'd say go for the tune. Do some reading on what converter you'd like to go with. I like the Yank line of converters and the Precision Industries (Vigilante) units.

Did you take your car to the track yet? I know this is said all the time, but I wouldn't worry about RWHP numbers unless you're just curious. I think track times would be a better area to focus in on.

Ben T.

Texas Speed & Performance is offering mail order tuning for $150. Here's the link: http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=406457

The day I went to get my car tuned for my longtubes & T1 cam, a buddy of mine took his '02 Firehawk for a tune. His only mods were the 345 hp package lid and a loudmouth. He picked up 23 rwhp from the tune.

First off, those numbers are flywheel horsepower, not rear wheel horsepower. Second, mods don't just add up like that. Those numbers would be if they were the only mod on the car.
These cars are very underrated by GM.

Yup. Those are Crank No. NOT what shes actually puttin @RW. You gotta keep in mind all that HP/TQ STILL has to go through your tranny; which is what? A4 or M6?? AND EVERY car responds differently to mods/upgrades.

track times are what you brag with...not dyno results.


YES!!! Dyno racing is GAY!! Its all about R/T, 60' and 1/4!:D


Damnit, sorry for the DP

Just remember that you can't rely on the advertised "horsepower gains" at all.

and if you are gonna do that, make sure you contact SLP... ;)

Teke there are different options to tune which ones would I tune with those 2 mods I have?

I wouldnt even bother until you get a decent sized cam with maybe a good pair of heads. Your burning your money.:p

That depends on the plans for the car. If you're going for bolt-on only or don't want a large cam, then you're still leaving power on the table w/out a tune. I got a tune after headers because I wanted to go !EGR & !AIR. It'll now only cost $50 to retune after my cam is installed.

People blow cash on O2 simulators when they could get them tuned out for less.

Well my next mod is gonna be pacesetter LT's with a catted y-pipe from TSP,then a stall converter any advice on one,and also get rid of the flowmaster and go with GMMG CB,and then a tune...after all said and done what will I average for gains with all this I currently have done the FRA,LID,and FLOWMASTER CB which I will replace with GMMG CB.

lid, LTs, orp, GMMG and a good tune.....330-340rwhp

Take it on the dyno, get a baseline, then mod car, see real world gains (or losses!)

Well my next mod is gonna be pacesetter LT's with a catted y-pipe from TSP,then a stall converter any advice on one,and also get rid of the flowmaster and go with GMMG CB,and then a tune...after all said and done what will I average for gains with all this I currently have done the FRA,LID,and FLOWMASTER CB which I will replace with GMMG CB.

Lemme see if I can help you. I think it's allready been established that right now you're probably around 310 rwhp. Could be more, could be less but that should be close.

Picking a converter should not be taken lightly. Are you going to go with a big cam in the future? Are you sticking with stock gears? Do you plan on ever spraying N20? Are you willing to run drag radials in the back? These all play a roll in picking the right stall speed.

A good stall size for most applications is 3500-3800. Reason is that range is streetable, good size for 100-150 shots of N20, mixes well with most mid size cams and is good with stock gears. So if you are looking for one of the best converters then I really like the Yank SS3600. Very streetable, good effiency and adapts well to most applications. But they are expensive as the best usually is. A great bang for the buck is the TCI SSF3500. Great converter, good customer service and they can be had for just under $500. Fuddle is a great bang for the buck converter as well. I would call Kevin @ TCI or John @ Fuddle if you have any further converter questions and especially if you plan on putting a cam in later on.

You woud probably benefit from a tune after the headers. My car was running dangerous lean after verter and headers went on. I gained 29 rwhp from my tune but mine was an extreme case. Normal gains from just a tune will be 10-15 rwhp. With the mods in my sig I dynoed 330 rwhp with converter locked. You would probably be closer to 335 rwhp since you have ls6 intake and I do not.

But I wouldn't be too worried about dyno numbers. Autos and high stalls eat HP. That's the nature of the beast. But autos and high stalls launch like a madman, shift fast and keep us in our powerband via high shift extensions. M6 cars love the dyno and highways while A4 cars love the drag strip and red lights that turn green ;)

Good luck.

yea probably a mid size cam,no nitros and I will probably stick with stock gears...