LPE_wannabe 10-11-2005, 12:06 AM that's right...i got the damn thing scanned, #1 O2 bank 1 #1 O2 bank 2...put stock MAF back on thinking MAYBE just maybe it was the Granatelli MAF running lean...still throwing it...so i go get new O2's install them, disconnect battery...still throwing the F-N code!?!?! what's the deal? do i have to get the code cleared through a scanner? why else would it be throwing the O2 codes? I am running rich now, could that have something to do with it? what if i mixed up the sensors and put the short wired one where the long wired one goes? so many questions...so little answered! HELP!!! thanks!
Injuneer 10-11-2005, 08:01 AM What were the specific codes? Almost impossible to help without knowing that. There are several O2 sensor codes that are generally the result of problems elsewhere in the system.
LWillmann 10-11-2005, 08:27 AM A shorted wire from the sensor to the PCM could also cause codes. Might check the harnesses to make sure that they're not burnt or anything.
LPE_wannabe 10-11-2005, 10:01 AM P0153 and P0133 both CTK Slow response...that help? thanks
Injuneer 10-11-2005, 12:05 PM It indicates the problem isn't a result of running rich or lean, nor of having problems with the heater circuit power supply. Also indicates that the sensors are covering the normal range of voltage swings, but the changes are too slow. Should be the type of problem you solve with new sensors.
What do you mean by:
what if i mixed up the sensors and put the short wired one where the long wired one goes?
Are you suggesting that somehow you switched the pre-cat and after-cat sensors? Putting the wrong sensors in the wrong locations would mean the PCM is trying control the A/F ratio with the after-cat sensors, which would certainly screw things up. But its hard to understand how that could happen.
LPE_wannabe 10-11-2005, 01:45 PM Yeah that's what i thought but the new sensors are in and the SES light is still on...i'm gonna go get it rescanned today and if it's the same thing i'm just gonna get em to clear it...what i meant by the wires, the bank 1 and bank 2 #1 sensors are 2 different part numbers, one wire harness is shorter than the other so i didn't know if i put the bank 1 on the bank 2 side if that would screw with the voltage? also could back pressure have anything to do with it since i have LT's ORY-pipe and 3" exhaust with SLP LM? thanks a lot!
It indicates the problem isn't a result of running rich or lean, nor of having problems with the heater circuit power supply. Also indicates that the sensors are covering the normal range of voltage swings, but the changes are too slow. Should be the type of problem you solve with new sensors.
What do you mean by:
Are you suggesting that somehow you switched the pre-cat and after-cat sensors? Putting the wrong sensors in the wrong locations would mean the PCM is trying control the A/F ratio with the after-cat sensors, which would certainly screw things up. But its hard to understand how that could happen.
2000GTP 10-11-2005, 02:58 PM After doing my header install, I got the P0133 code. After following Injuneer's and Shoebox's advice from previous posts that I dug up, I replaced the two front 02 sensors. The code did not magically go away, but my friend has a Snap-On scanner and deleted them for me and they never came back after already two months. So I would say go ahead and clear them and see where that takes you.
LPE_wannabe 10-11-2005, 04:49 PM well i wet by Advance Auto to get the code erased and when he scanned it, it came up as a damn knock sensor code! so now i guess i need a new knock sensor??? the codes that came up say "Transient DTC P0327 Knock Sensor 1 Curcuit Low Input" and the other one is "Transient DTC P1133 HO2S Bank 1 Sen 1 Insuff. Switching" what the hell does all that mean? i hear of people diabling the knock sensor...should i just have that done? if so where can i do that? thanks!!!
After doing my header install, I got the P0133 code. After following Injuneer's and Shoebox's advice from previous posts that I dug up, I replaced the two front 02 sensors. The code did not magically go away, but my friend has a Snap-On scanner and deleted them for me and they never came back after already two months. So I would say go ahead and clear them and see where that takes you.
moparman 10-11-2005, 10:22 PM On the O2 sensor, check all terminals, connectors and the wiring.
LPE_wannabe 10-12-2005, 01:09 AM aparently the O2 problem is fixed...now it's the knock sensor...wtf do i do with that? keep in mind i have lt headers and 3" exhaust...thanks
On the O2 sensor, check all terminals, connectors and the wiring.
LWillmann 10-12-2005, 08:34 AM I get a KS low votage code now and then and don't know what to do about it either, but it's never turned on the SES light.
Injuneer 10-12-2005, 09:26 AM The knock sensor code is set when the PCM doesn't see the correct voltage on the circuit. Either the wire from the PCM is not supplying the correct voltage to the sensor, or the resistance of the sensor is out of range. Could be a bad wire, corroded connector, faulty ground on the sensor or damaged sensor.
LPE_wannabe 10-13-2005, 12:15 AM so where is this pos sensor and do i really need it?
The knock sensor code is set when the PCM doesn't see the correct voltage on the circuit. Either the wire from the PCM is not supplying the correct voltage to the sensor, or the resistance of the sensor is out of range. Could be a bad wire, corroded connector, faulty ground on the sensor or damaged sensor.
LWillmann 10-13-2005, 09:01 AM The knock sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine block, screwed into a water jacket. If you remove the starter, you should see it. It's about 2" in diameter, with a single wire going to it.
You need it because the car is designed to detect knock and pull timing to keep you from blowing the engine. If you remove or disable it's ability to detect it, then you have to hope like hell that your tune is dead on, or you're likely on borrowed time.
2000GTP 10-13-2005, 02:02 PM Not trying to create any conflicts, but it mentions in his sig. that he has a 98 which is equipped with an LS1. I thought the LS1 had two knock sensors and they were located in the lifter valley area? Dont know if that would make any difference or not.
LWillmann 10-13-2005, 02:18 PM Not trying to create any conflicts, but it mentions in his sig. that he has a 98 which is equipped with an LS1. I thought the LS1 had two knock sensors and they were located in the lifter valley area? Dont know if that would make any difference or not.
DOH!
You are correct. I wasn't paying close enough attention.
LPE_wannabe 10-13-2005, 05:15 PM Not trying to create any conflicts, but it mentions in his sig. that he has a 98 which is equipped with an LS1. I thought the LS1 had two knock sensors and they were located in the lifter valley area? Dont know if that would make any difference or not.
so what does that mean??? that mean i gotta take the manifold off???
LWillmann 10-14-2005, 08:29 AM I may be wrong, but I believe you will have to remove the intake manifold to get to them.
LPE_wannabe 10-15-2005, 01:20 PM ok so now the SES light went off by itself?!?! i have NO idea what's going on but i'm assuming since the light went off it's running fine now? we'll see i guess...thanks a lot guys!
2000GTP 10-15-2005, 01:51 PM ok so now the SES light went off by itself?!?! i have NO idea what's going on but i'm assuming since the light went off it's running fine now? we'll see i guess...thanks a lot guys!
Thats unusual, but known to happen at times. It still wouldn't hurt to check over all of your wiring harnesses in the engine bay as it is easy for the long tubes to catch them.
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