I have brand new hawk break pads. They are the streat ones. I installed them and they worked AWESOME AWESOME AWESOME... however, sometime later they stopped gripping... they are really slugish. So I bled the brakes a few times with no luck. THey work just good enough that I can still drive around... However, it's like breaking a pickuptruck with a 10k lb load behind it... they are just REALLY sluggish.

I am running stock rotors if it makes any difference.

 

replace your master cyl. it has nothing to do with rotors. it's either your calipers or master cyl. they master cyl is cheaper than both or all four calipers.

 

What all does it involve?? How difficult is it to change out a master cylinder?

 

Replacing the master cylinder shouldn't be too bad. Just requires bleeding the entire brake system when you're done.

 

I went to buy a new master cylinder. Told the mechanic my troubles and he was suprised. He told me of a couple other things to check prior to replacing the master cylinder.

So... I checked the power brakes. I pumped up the break. Then started the car. The pedal sank once the car was started. Apparently this is an indication of a fault in the vacume booster for the breaks.

I have been tinkering around with my tuning for my cc306 cam. What are good vacume numbers for strong breaking???

How do I ensure which and what is exactly my problem without buying parts until the problem goes away. The master cyclinder doesn't leak at all.

Also if it is the master cylinder. What is a good upgrade to get when replacing this.

Thanks!