I've got Ls1 front brakes, Lt1 rear brakes. I wasn't looking at getting anything different for the front, unless skinnies are a must for hardcore racing. My car is mid-12's NOW with street tires. i'm going with a 12 bolt and a new head cam package this season and i'm hoping for mid-11's with a good 60' time. I AM LOOKING FOR A REAR WHEEL COMBO FOR RACING ONLY. Which leads me here.

So i've got Lt1 rear brakes. I was kinda hoping for some wrinkle wall slicks for the rear. This would most commonly be a 14 or 15" rim i think?!?! so then, do i run into brake clearance problems? what offset do i need. How wide of a rim/tire can i get away with? how much do slicks grow? should i just get some ET streets? or are wrinkle wall slicks way better? I have heard lots of good things about the ET streets. what kind of pricing should i plan for? Should i look for new or used stuff? blah blah blah... just pour your heart out! any help would be great.

I'd kind of like someone to take me under their wing here as i have no idea about rim/tire combinations except that the rims are stock and i replace them when they're bald

 

You need at least a 15" wheel with the LT1 rear brakes. And even then, with some specific wheels, you need to grind some of the cooling fins off the rear calipers. The Weld Pro-Star and Draglites are 15" wheels that require grinding of the fins. The Centerline Telstar and Bogart P1s are wheels that do not require grinding. the Weld's will cost you close to $200 each. The Telstars are quite a bit cheaper, and the Bogarts will be well over $300 each.

You will need either a 15x8" wheel, with 5.5" backspace, or a 15x10" wheel with 7.5" backspace.

Go the Mickey Thompson website and look over there "tech" and "FAQ" sections. Lots of good info about tire compounds, growth, tubes, pressure, etc.

I ran a Hoosier QTP 28x11.5-15, which is similar to the M/T ET Street. It was good enough for 11.0 @128mph. Probably would have gone a lot quicker if I could have got the nitrous to hit a little sooner... like off the line. The growth on that tire was about 1" in diameter at 125mph. I had to move the axle assembly back about 1/4" to keep the tread from rubbing on the front/metal edge of the fender wheel opening.

The Hoosier is about the largest tire you can fit in there with little hammering or other clearance problems. My wheel wells had already been hammered for 315's DR's on 17x11's, so I didn't have to do anything extra for the QTP's. You would probably be better off with a smaller tire.... the QTP in that size is a full 28.0" diameter, while the ET Street equivalent is only 27.6" diameter. You could probably be OK with a 26" or 27" tire. The larger the diameter, the better, except you need some steep gears.

Used wheels are generally OK. Used slicks are a crap shoot. If they haven't been taken care of, they could be next to useless. I think the going price on the ET Streets is about $175-185. Look everything up in the Summit or JEG's catalog. Their prices are fairly competetive, and will give you an idea for the budget. Then shop around for a better price.

Check the M/T website, and the Hoosier website. They are both good.

 

I run 4.10's right now in a 10 bolt. i'm going to 12 bolt this season, but i'm thinking about dropping back to a 3.73 for a few reasons.. one, the whine is horrible with the 4.10's i'm on my 3rd set of 4.10s and they all were whiney. second, i end up running out of RPM by the end of the 1/4. i'm at 113 mph, doing a mid 12, and my RPM's are like.. 6300 or so. The 383 starts to drop off a bit before that, and i'm running N/A, so i was hoping to go with 3.73's so that i have a little gear left in 4th by the time I cross the line. as it is right now, i have to flutter the throttle through 1st and second, just to get some traction, and the best i can come up with is a 2.0 60' time, i don't know how getting traction will affect my RPM at the end of the 1/4. Maybe by getting traction at the start my MPH will be up by the end, but my RPM will still be almost maxed out. don't know if anyone has any experience on that sort of thing?? I'm not looking to do any sort of modifications to my car really, like hammering and such, so i'd need something which will just bolt up and go. like you said, the 26's or 27's. I saw some rims in summit today which were like $40 a piece for black, and 50 something for chrome rims, ... like 15x10's or 15x8's can't remember what brand right now. thanks for the help. anymore help from people would be appreciated! Maybe i should post this in the tech section or drag racing section.

 

What size tire are you running now? If its a 26" and you are crossing the line at 6,300 you would be at 6,060rpm with a 27" tire and 5,850rpm with a 28" tire, assuming your MPH didn't change. Or, for the same redline, you would be pushing 117mph with the 27's and 121mph with the 28's.

If your 4.10's are noisey, it would have to be because they aren't set up right. There is nothing inherent to 4.10's that causes them to shine more than any other ratio. My 4.11's are silent.