camaro '87 V8 few questions...

Hi, I come from Europe and I'm a new member on your forum.

I hope you've got time for a few questions about V8 Camaro '87:

My car's setup:
Camaro '87, V8 388 Stroker engine, Carburated, power steering, standard ride height

Qustion regarding headers:
Do you recommend any specific headers for such car setup? Is there anything I should be particulary aware of before I buy them. My chevy's got original ride height and carburated engine (not TPI). Though I would like to have full-size Headers instead of Shorty-style. Would these be suitable (summit catalog): http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=hok-2451HKR ?

If not - can you make any suggestions?

Another question - about Oil Pan: I would like to choose the one with grater capacity than the original. Again, what should I be aware of? Do I have to modify my Oil pump also? Is there possibility, that I hit the ground easier with such (bigger) Oil Pan?


Thank you very much for your time and kind answers. I'm looking foreward to hearing from you.

i would suggest slp 1 3/4 headers for that set up...they are stainless steel and beefy as hell...best headers on the market for our cars


oil pan i would suggest just sticking with the stocker......if you went aftermarket you'd have to modify the oil pump pickup etc.....it would be a pain because to do it the right way you'd need to remove or lift the motor up and remove the trans to get the pan on because of how the stock pick up in the oil pan is


what part of europe you from?

I would go with long tubes(like you wanted) although I am not sure about emissions legality with an 87. I would also put coated headers on, not painted. Definately worth the extra dollars.

Not sure about the oil pan. Are you having a problems with oil starvation? "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" can apply here.

Welcome to the forums!

There are several good oil pans for this application, Hamburger and Canton are two. The ground clearence of the pan is not a problem because they are wider not deeper. These pans usually come with the proper extended pickup. You do not thave to mod. your pump.
Get the Hooker "Super Comps" long tubes with the 1 3/4" primaries, NOT the ones you posted, if you want long tubes. But remember that there will be ground clearence issues with these. And buy or get them coated. I think these still require some custom exhaust work also.
If ground clearence, or getting exhaust work done, is a concern then get the shorties.
Nice joice of car by the way, any pics. Which trans?

i would suggest slp 1 3/4 headers for that set up...they are stainless steel and beefy as hell...best headers on the market for our cars


maybe if you have an unlimited bank account funds.

if you dont have emissions and ground clearance isnt an issue with your car,Hooker and Heddman both make long tube headers for 3rd gens. I havent seen personally,but have heard that the Heddman's tuck up a little closer than the Hookers.

My oilpan suggestion is a Moroso, 6qts. a little deeper than stock but even on a lowered car ground clearence is not an issue. A pan with kickouts and useing longtubes together is gonna make starter access a nightmare.
part number MOR-19510 pre 80 block or drivers side dipstick.
MOR-2018286 86 and newer block,pass. side dipstick,one piede rear main seal.

Hooker Super comps are the best longtube out there but also cost you the most ground clearence. The Headman longtubes are a good header and the collectors will be closer to the floorpan. With either choice,Have Them Coated.

I must explain some details for you to get the whole picture. I write on this forum on behalf of my boyfriend, who's got a few problems with English language :)

So far he's been working on european Ford Capri (for the last 10 years). Here are some pictures of his work, I hope you like it:
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap1.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap2.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap3.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap4.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap5.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap6.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap7.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap8.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap9.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap10.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap11.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cap12.jpg

Now he's decided to move on on a new project - Chevrolet Camaro. He bought '87with 5.0 V8 carburated engine and 5-speed manual trans.
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cam1.jpg
- http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cam2.jpg
Because this engine is in quite poor shape, he intends to buy and import from USA to Europe whole new engine. Curently he is making a list of necessery parts, that he has to order. He doesn't have much experience with such engines, so he's got a few problems completing that list. That's why we turned to you guys. He wishes to make a complete list of parts, so that he can order them in one piece (which takes 5 weeks to arrive to EU) with no need to order again.. So here's the problem - there are some pieces and parts, that he doesn't know what they are for, what is their purpouse, does he really need them... There are very few people in our country with such knowledge that you guys have. Furthermore, he's heaving problems with choosing some known parts from his catalog.. I hope you understand his situation and If you are so kind to give him some answers. Any opinion and advice is welcome.

So here we go - his list of parts:

- 388 Stroker Chevy SB specialty kit (PAW catalog, page 64) long block kit : picture: http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/PAW_narocilo.jpg
->which are better, flat top pistons or dished style pistons?
->which heads are more suitable - 76cc or 64cc?

-Summit 7-quart Oil Pan -> does dipstick come with the packege or do I have to order it?

-Headers: I would like "full length" headers, but there are only "Shorty-style" in catalogs.. Why is that so? My exhaust sistem wil be custom made, so the only thing that's important about headers is that they do not interfere with power-steering or chasis... There will be no catalytic converter in this sistem. Would these be suitable: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=big-11100flt ?

- Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold + cam kit

- Holley 650 CFM double pumper

- Holley Blue Electric Fuel Pump + regulator kit

- Summit Chrome plated, full size, Offset Starter for Chevy (anything to be careful about when ordering?)

- Alternator Magnum 80 amp (What does "With Billet Bracket" stand for - what does it mean)

- water pump (what is the difference between short style and long style pump) (anything speceific here?)

- TH 400 transmission (used, not new - bought through yellow pages and used parts catalog. What are approximate prices in your used parts catalogs?

- B&M SuperCooler kit for transmission oil

- Derale Engine Oil Cooler Kit

- K&N performace Gold oil filter

- ARP engine bolt kit - (http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=esearch.asp&N=100&Ntk=PartSearch&Ntt=arp-534-9601) Are there any screews needed?

- MR Gasket Quick-Change Timing cover kit

- Valve covers + Wing Nuts + Breather (how many do I need - one or two?)

- Summit Harmonic Damper - Question: How essential is this part for engine's performance? Is there a major difference between OEM Harmonic damper and other more expensive options. What is the difference between "internal balance damper" and "external balance damper"?

- shifter - Which do you recommend? Would it be OK if I installed a used one from original camaro configuration?

-roll-cage


Is that everything I need, am I forgeting anything?

Thank you for your patience reading this essay, but I really need help. If I don't get it from you guys, I'm gonna need something more professional. Mental institution would be nice :)

p.s.: I come from Slovenia.

This is a big project. Experienced people have given up on completing this kind of change.

But, some observations:

Headers: Forget those Flowtechs. They won't fit in the chassis. Go to www.summitracing.com, click on "Online Store", then "Exhaust", then "Headers". At the top of the page is a pull-down menu "Application Guide" - start going through that. After you've selected make-Chevrolet, model-Camaro, year-1987, engine type-V8, engine size-5.7L/350, header material-steel, header finish-painted, header style-full length, you'll have 4 choices. The Flowtechs are BIG-11102SFLT, and are listed as 1-1/2" primary tube size. That is too small for a 383/388. You need at least 1-5/8" primary tubes. That leaves Hedmans and Hookers for $135 and $420, respectively.

Pistons: With 76cc chamber heads, go with flat tops.

Oil pan: No particular reason to get a 7-quart pan. It will likely cause you trouble. Get a regular 5-quart pan, use synthetic oil after break-in, don't worry about it.

I wouldn't go with a 388 engine. That's a 383 that's bored another .030" larger (4.060" diameter). Cylinder walls are getting pretty thin at that bore size on factory production blocks. Stick with a 383 unless you are using an aftermarket block like World or Dart.

You need an external balance damper and flexplate unless the stroker crank is internally balanced. If it doesn't say it is internally balanced, it is not. A "regular" replacement damper is typically fine up to 6500 RPMs.

I've never heard anything good about Edelbrock cams. They're old grinds that have poor idle for the power made. Go with a Crane or Comp cam. You'll be much happier.

Unless you plan on changing the cam often, the quick change cover is an unnecessary expense.

Transmission prices vary a lot. Unless you are getting it locally, you might as well get a performance built transmission while you're at it. Go through the same Summit process under "Drivetrain" - like the Summit TH400. You will need to do something about the torque arm mount as well, by the way.

I'd go with at least a 750 CFM carb on that size of engine.

Could say more, will stop at that for now.

Hi everybody, my name is Jure, I'm corvette_girl's boyfriend. We are talking about my car, so I decided to sign in to more actively participate in this discussion. I'm really satisfied over your response, I really appreciate it.. My list of questions is still quite full :)

I forgot to include some important details:
- In my country we use 95 octane gas, so that's gonna make my engine run...
- In near future I plan to install N2O sistem (NOS or NX)
- That is in fact my second, something like a "hobby" car and is not used for everyday purpouses, but mainly for drag races and sunday cruises. It's milage will be low.

five7kid says:
"I'd go with at least a 750 CFM carb on that size of engine."

I already have carb, Holley 650 CFM double pumper. I prefer 750 too, but...
I also have Street Scoop already:
pic1 (http://www.zupdesign.com/zup-racing/camaro/scoop3.jpg)

five7kid says:
"I wouldn't go with a 388 engine. That's a 383 that's bored another .030" larger (4.060" diameter). Cylinder walls are getting pretty thin at that bore size on factory production blocks. Stick with a 383 unless you are using an aftermarket block like World or Dart."

What is this all about? PAW has only 2 similar configurations in its catalog..
PAW catalog (http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/PAW_narocilo1.jpg)

Which option do you prefer? Can I aquire any similar configuration elsewhere at the same or at least afordable price?
Both other kits are sold only as short block kits. What is the difference between long block kit - which parts? How can I choose missing components so that they match?
Do you prefer Cylinder heads 76cc with 2.02" int & 1.60" exh. valves?

Considering that I will use Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and that my camshaft is included with block kit, I'll choose one of camshafts listed in this catalog (Super Stock Industries) and be careful that it's got same specifications as the one in Edelbrock Performer RPM kit. Is that OK?
I really like the sound of V8 runing under low rews - kinda funny, as a result of sharp camshaft..

Water pump question: Which one - Long or Short? :confused:

five7kid says:
"Headers: Forget those Flowtechs. They won't fit in the chassis. Go to www.summitracing.com, click on "Online Store", then "Exhaust", then "Headers". At the top of the page is a pull-down menu "Application Guide" - start going through that. After you've selected make-Chevrolet, model-Camaro, year-1987, engine type-V8, engine size-5.7L/350, header material-steel, header finish-painted, header style-full length, you'll have 4 choices. The Flowtechs are BIG-11102SFLT, and are listed as 1-1/2" primary tube size. That is too small for a 383/388. You need at least 1-5/8" primary tubes. That leaves Hedmans and Hookers for $135 and $420, respectively."

I've been searching and found HED-68460 headers. They got middle 2 tubes joined in one? Is that OK? Which are more effective, these or Shorty-Style with 4 tubes, for instance HED-68470? :confused:

I will order painted Headers, because a frend of mine will get them chromed for free.

That's all for now. :thumb:

I'm not sure how octane is rated in your area, but the US version is actually an average of two different methods. "95" on your pump may be the same as "87" on our pumps in the US.

Both of those engine choices are .060"-over. Unless they can verify by sonic testing that the cylinder walls are thick enough, you're on the ragged edge of being acceptable, and most likely you will never be able to rebuild that block again if they need to be bored again. That's probably why the price is as low as it is. At any rate, the 388 is the long stroke/smaller bore vs. the short stroke/larger bore of the 383. I'd take the long stroke version. 76cc heads with flat top 4 valve relief pistons will put compression in a good street range.

I don't have PAW's catalog, and they don't have an on-line version. The pictures you posted are a little hard to read, so I'm not sure what to tell you about what else you'd need.

You'll need a long style water pump.

Don't trust the photos on Summitracing.com. The 68460's are 4 long tubes. In general, as long as you can get the rest of the exhaust hooked up and keep it off the ground, long tubes are better than shorties. Chrome plating done well is better than painting, but done poorly is worse. Ceramic coating inside and out is the best because it not only protects from corrosion but also insulates (to some degree - not absolutely, but a lot better than paint or chrome). The paint that is on the headers from the factory is "shipping paint", intended only to keep the steel from rusting until installed. When I say "painted", I mean headers that have had the shipping paint removed and high temperature paint applied.

not sure if it was a typ-o or not,but your car is an 86 Camaro,the only year they had the third brake light on the top outside of the glass. an 87 would have it in the rear spoiler,along w/ 85. i cant remember what year it was when they moved it to the inside the glass...im thinking it was 89 or 90.

OK.

A realised that the 388 engine kit would probably be a bad choice for me.
So, i found a better engine kit. (I hope so :) )

Here it is:largePICTURE (http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/377_4bolt.jpg)

377, 4 BOLT MAIN Chevy with 4.000" Bore and 3.750" Stroke.
Kit includes NEW 4Bolt GM Standard Bore Block and NEW World Products SR Cylinder Heads.

I hope that the picture from PAW catalog is good enough for reading.

What do you think about this one?

There are many options to select. Which options would you recomend?
Which combination of Pistons and Heads produces higher power?
High compression ratio is good by me. With our "95 octane" Gasoline would be no problem with compression ratios up to 11:1 ;)
One of my friends drives tunned Honda with 14:1 compression ratio on this Gasoline ;)

This kit also includes CAM and i must select one between available CAMs from list.
Here is the list: CAM catalog_large pic (http://www.zupdesign.com/camaroforum/cam_PAW.jpg)
Which CAM would you pick?
I intend to order an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold. (Just intake manifold without Edelbrock CAM.)
If someone orders a Edelbrock Performer RPM kit, this kit includes also CAM with following preferences:
LIFT: int:.488 exh:.510, Duration at .050": int.: 234 exh.:244

What's your opinion about Weiland Stealth intake manifold?


Someone wrote on a nother forum, that the rear end would not stand the power, which this Engine would produce....
What do you mean about that?

I can not decide between TH400 and TH350 :confused: ... Which one would be better for this engine with so much power and in near future even more with Nitrous Oxyde +200 HP shot.

Thank you again for helping me...... :bow: :bow: :bow:

Haven't had a chance to look at the catalogs yet, but you can also get to 388 CID with a .030 overbore and a 3.800" stroke. GM uses the same stroke in their crate 383 with a 4.00" bore.

I'd try to stick with a slightly lower compression, between 10.0 and 10.5 simply for the fact that it will be easier to tune, and it won't be affected as much during the summer months, or if you get a batch of bad gas.

If you're planning to run nitrous down the road, look into a nitrous cam. The performer RPM isn't a bad cam, but it's not a nitrous grind either.

As for the rearend, it's the glass jaw of the 3rd and 4th gen cars. A hard shifting car with lots of power that hooks will break the 7.5" 10 bolt in no time.

I like my Stealth Ram, I'll probably like it even more when everything is finished. :)

Isn't a 388 just a .060 overbored 350 with a 3.75 stroke, it used to be...
Boring that far over isn't great for reliability unless you have the cylinder walls sonic checked, for core shifts.. ;)
Brake light location also went by trim package, Berlinetta, IROC, Coupe, Z28 varied, I've seen it. I own an '86 Coupe, '86 GTA, '90 IROC; the '86 is inside the glass at top of hatch, '90 is in the rear spoiler, my buddy's '83 Z is outside the glass at the top of the hatch.

- 64cc for Normal Aspiration, dished for blower or nitrous.
- shorty header because of limited ground clearance.
-better induction: Edlebrock Vic,Jr. intake, 600cfm carb (each cylinder will see all 600cfm's)(Don't oversize carb..)
-better cam Comp Cams XE268 (Extreme Energy)more agressive ramps, excellent all purpose powerfull cam.
-"with billet bracket" refers to material make-up.(dress-up)
-400 trans, very strong, but not neccessary and will cost close to 40HP..
-valve cover needs 4 wing-nuts each, breather needs one.
The rest is just personal preference... :)

-better induction: Edlebrock Vic,Jr. intake, 600cfm carb (each cylinder will see all 600cfm's)(Don't oversize carb..)
-better cam Comp Cams XE268 (Extreme Energy)more agressive ramps, excellent all purpose powerfull cam.


I found specifications for Edelbrock Vic, Jr. intake manifold and there's written: "Power bands range from 3,500 to 7,000 rpm, on up to 4,500 to 8,000 rpm. "
My engine will go up to max 6000 RPM. I need power from idle to 6000 RPM, i think :confused: :confused: .
Are you sure this intake would be a good choice for me? What do you think about Torker II intake manifold?
I agree with you about XE286 CAM. I will order one. Thank for the advice. ;)

OK, this turned into a pretty long post, I hope it helps... ;)

First off, welcome to the board!!

What is the difference between long block kit - which parts?
The long-block is more complete. Short-block assemblies usually consist of just the cylinder block & internals like the crank, rods, pistons, etc. The long-block generally has all of that plus complete cylinder heads & valvetrain.

There are many options to select. Which options would you recomend?
If you're going to go with a 200 HP shot of nitrous, you'll probably want to add the extra $266 (US) for the forged crankshaft - and you'll definitely want to also make sure that your pistons are forged & that your rods are pretty strong as well. Otherwise, you'll mess up your new engine. The "rule of thumb" I've heard for nitrous is that a stock V-8 engine (non-forged components) can take about 125 HP, any bigger than that & you need to build the engine for the additional power.

Unfortunately, making big horsepower isn't cheap... :(

One of my friends drives tunned Honda with 14:1 compression ratio on this Gasoline
Unless he has a turbocharger (and a good tune) your Camaro will destroy him power-wise... ;) (And even then, you'll probably beat him handily...)

I can not decide between TH400 and TH350 ... Which one would be better for this engine with so much power and in near future even more with Nitrous Oxide +200 HP shot.
Well, the 400 will be stronger (& last longer) but as mentioned before it will take more power to run it as well. The 350 is a good choice, but it would be a very good idea to get it "beefed up" before installing it so that it lasts longer.

A "normal" (or "stock") TH350 won't last forever behind all that power, a "beefed up" TH350 will last quite a while longer. You'll also be much happier with the way it shifts.


Summit Chrome plated, full size, Offset Starter for Chevy (anything to be careful about when ordering?)
You'll need to know whether you have a 153-tooth or 168-tooth flywheel. I think that there are different "noses" on different starters as well, but I don't remember off-hand...

My engine will go up to max 6000 RPM. I need power from idle to 6000 RPM, i think. :confused: :confused:
This brings up a VERY IMPORTANT point - it's absolutely CRITICAL that you start with a plan before ordering parts (and it sounds like you already know what you want). That way you can make sure that all of the parts you order will work well together. (Example - you'll want to make sure that the XE268 cam will work well with the heads you'll be running. From what I could see, the heads have intake valves that are 1.94 inches, & exhaust valves of 1.50 inches. Does that work well with that cam? The only way to put together a good combination is to ask a LOT of questions - eventually you'll see what works well together. This article (http://chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/148_0307_basic/) might be a good start.)

Since you're using a carburetor & you apparently don't have to worry about emissions, you can also post questions on the 'Classic Tech' board as well - there might be a few more people there to answer your questions.

And just for the record, I would also recommend getting your headers ceramic-coated, rather than painted or chromed. I believe that Jet-Hot (http://www.jet-hot.com/) has a deal where you can order your headers through them, they will receive the headers, apply the ceramic coating, & then ship them to you. (Not sure if that works for Europe though...)

Finally, you may also find it helpful to check out the Thirdgen.org's tech page (http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/). They also have a forum with people who know a LOT about these cars, & can help steer you away from some of the common mistakes people make. :)

A few extra links to close this message out:

Thunder Racing has a pretty good selection of third-gen parts (http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog/?action=vehicle&vid=6).

You can sometimes get good advice on selecting parts from magazine articles (but keep in mind they're in business to help their advertisers sell parts). Two of the better ones (IMHO) are Super Chevy (http://www.superchevy.com/) and Chevy High Performance (http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/).

One of the biggest factors in how your car runs is whether your camshaft works well with the other parts of your combination (the engine's compression ratio, intake manifold, cylinder heads, the torque converter in your TH350, the gears in the differential, etc.). It's kind of basic, but this page (http://www.engineparts.com/Motorhead/techstuff/cam.html) gives you a small idea of the different factors to watch.

I hope this doesn't scare you away, stay for a while, & you can be as "confused" ;) as the rest of us... :)

Oh noooooooooo...... :cry:

Now i'm really confused .... :confused: :confused: :confused:

And i have only 2 days left to complete my list of Parts to order...

Help.....

OK, I was afraid of that... :( My apologies, it certainly can be overwhelming.

The primary idea that I wanted to convey is that you want to ensure that everything works well together.

Instead of me trying to guess what questions you have, please tell us what you're confused about. It IS a lot of information to think about, but there are a lot of people here to help, so ask away.

And again, I apologize for overwhelming you with all of that.

Hmmm...

Here is my list:

377 4 bolt main (4.000 inch Bore & 3.750 inch Stroke)

BLOCK- New GM Standard Bore 4 bolt main block with 2-piece rear main seal. Honed for Moly rings.Painted inside with rustoleum to aid in a quicker oil return.The outside of the block is painted with a choice of factory colors. Fitted with new cam bearings and brass freeze plugs. These new blocks accept right or left side dipsticks.
CRANKSHAFT – Cast iron 3.750 crank custom ground on rod and main journals. Micropolished with oil holes chamfered.
RODS – 5.700'' log factory forged rods that have been shotpeened, resized, fitted with new chrome moly rod bolts for maximum strenght.
PISTONS- New! Your choice of forged dishes or flat-top pistons. Avaliable in the following compressions ratios:
Flat Top Pistons: 67cc Head 9.9 Apx. Comp. Ratio
Dish Pistons: 67cc Head 9.3 Apx. Comp. Ratio
Optional L-2304F Dome: 67cc Head 10.7 Apx. Comp. Ratio
L-2304F: Add $100.00 - i select this option

RINGS - New Moly faced top comp. ring w/premium stainless oil ring.
BEARINGS - New Clevite M77 Tri-metal bearings to match crankshaft.
TIMING CHAIN SET – New P.A.W. Double roller chain & gears.
BALANCED – Assembly custom balanced w/pistons fitted to rods.

CYLINDER HEADS: NEW World Products SR 67cc cylinder heads with 1.94 intake & 1.50 exhaust. Heads feature brand new World Products castings, new Manley valves, new chrome moly retainers, new valve stem seals, new hardened valve locks, new performance valve springs which will handle up to .500 lift hydraulic camshaft. Hardened exhaust seats, new screw in studs, 3-angle valve job, 7 bolt exhaust flange.

LIFTERS: NEW P.A.W. Hydraulic

PUSHRODS: NEW P.A.W. High-performance chrome moly pushrods

OIL PUMP: NEW P.A.W. High-volume oil pump

GASKETS: New full set of top-quality Fel-Pro gaskets.

ROCKER ARMS: NEW SSI High-performance long-slot rockers with antigall balls an new lock nuts.

CAMSHAFT: Comp Cams Xtreme Energy CS XE268H-10 Hydraulic flat tappet (1,600-5,800 RPM) (CCA-12-242-2) Advertised Duration 268/280, Lift .477/.480

OPTIONS: - Guide plates – NEW ($100)
- Double V/S chromoly retainers, PC seals – NEW ($125)
- SSI Stainless 1.94 & 1.50 valves – NEW ($64)
- SSI Stainless 2.02 & 1.60 valves – NEW ($110)
- Dome L-2304F Forget Piston – NEW ($100)
- NEW 5140 Forget Steel Crankshat 3.750 Stroke ($286)
- PC seals NEW ($40)

Which OPTIONS should i pick? I think the bold marked are real neccesary.






INTAKE MANIFOLD: Edelbrock Performer RPM EDL-7104, Intake Manifold, Carbureted, Aluminum, Natural, Dual Plane, Chevy, Small Block
or Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap EDL-7501

CARB: Holley 4150 series, Double pumper, Mechanical secondaries (i have at home already)

ENGINE BOLT KIT: Engine & Accessory Fasteners, Stainless Hex, Chevrolet Small Block, Kit

HARMONIC BALANCER: Summit OEM : Harmonic Balancer, OEM, Internal/External Balance, Nodular Iron, Chevy Small Block Gen I

STARTER: Starter, Full Size, Offset, Chrome Plated, Chevy SUM-G1668 , flywheel ????

WATER PUMP: SUM-311006 Water Pump, Mechanical, Clockwise, High-Volume, Iron, Black Powdercoated, SB Chevy, Long
+ Water pump bolts (SUM-G1572HS) + Thermostat (160?? or 180?? degree, High flow)

I dont know nothing about my flywheel. Should i become one with engine? Should i select one from new components from Summit catalog?

TIMING COVER: MRG-1099 kit

Valve covers tall, steel, chrome plated + breathers + Wing nuts

How can I figure out on which side is dipstick of my engine?

HEADERS: Headman Headers HED-68460,Headers, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Small Block, Pair, 1 5/8 tube
or FlowTech Headers BIG-11100FLT, Headers, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Small Block, Pair, 1 5/8 tube
or Hooker Competition Headers HOK-2451HKR, Headers, Full Length, Steel, Painted, Chevy, Small Block, Pair, 1 5/8 tube

OIL PAN: ?? Summit SUM-G3502 Summit 7-Quart Oil Pans for Small Block Chevy + Oil Pickup, Press-Fit, Aftermarket Pan Style, Chevy, Small Block MOR-24170

Performance Gold oil filter KNN-HP-2002

ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP Holley Blue with regulator HLY-12-802-1

I still prefer TH-400 trans... (because it can transmit more power...)

Need any additional pulleys??? Perhaps driveshaft...? I have one now on 5 speed manual trans...

Did I forget still something?

Will this configuration work together?

Please help....

Which OPTIONS should i pick? I think the bold marked are real neccesary.

The forged pistons are very good, and a good choice if you're using lots of nitrous.

The larger 2.02 valves will let your engine move more air, and thereby make more horsepower at higher RPMs.

The smaller 1.94 valves might be more efficient at lower RPMs, but since it sounds like you are wanting a "weekend warrior" car, you'll probably be happier with the 2.02 valves.

The forged crankshaft is a good idea with the nitrous you spoke of.

INTAKE MANIFOLD: Edelbrock Performer RPM EDL-7104, Intake Manifold, Carbureted, Aluminum, Natural, Dual Plane, Chevy, Small Block or Edelbrock Performer RPM Air-Gap EDL-7501

I have heard that the RPM Air-Gap manifold is one of the best carb manifolds there is. (I don't know myself, as my car is TPI...)

ENGINE BOLT KIT:

If you have the money, it would be a VERY good idea to get really good fasteners, at least for the rods, crank, etc. - The best brand (from what I've heard) is ARP. It's like "insurance" for your engine.

I dont know nothing about my flywheel. Should i become one with engine? Should i select one from new components from Summit catalog?

I think that our cars take the 168-tooth flywheel, but I'd double-check that.

How should i determ dipstick side???

Since the P.A.W. engine can have the dipstick on either side, that's up to you. Before 1986 it was on the driver's side, after 1986 it's on the passenger side. I personally like it on the passenger side (seems to be more room there), but you can do either way it sounds like.

HEADERS:

I'd agree with the people before me who suggested either the Hooker or the Heddman headers - don't bother with the Flowtechs.

OIL PAN:

Save your money - use the oil pan you already have unless you have a good reason to upgrade.

I still prefer TH-400 trans... (because it can transmit more power...)

I agree, but some people want every little bit of speed possible, so they'll take the lighter tranny even though they may have to rebuild it more often.

Need any additional pulleys???

Probably not.

Perhaps driveshaft...?

Might not be a bad idea, but I don't know if you'll need it right away...

It would probably be a good idea to think about upgrading the radiator if you'll be driving it much. These cars don't have the greatest cooling systems when you add lots more power...

Will this configuration work together?

From what I can see, yes, it should..

Feel free to ask any other questions, I don't have a lot of answers, but others here probably do... :)