I have been running a solid roller now for 2 years. This might be kind of a basic question.....contrary to having searched for this info a while back and finding confilicting answers I thought I would ask here.

A hot vs. cold setting....

If the recommended HOT setting was .016", what would be the COLD equivalent?

Also, is setting lash cold better than doing it while hot? Seems it would not matter, however I have noticed that with my car while setting it hot, the lash ends up not being as accurate. I know that part of this is due to the cooling the engine experiences while doing it.....but no matter how fast i work, it still ends up being off just after one heat cycle.

For example, I set the last last night at .016" hot....took it for a drive today (up to full opperating temp for a while), and pulled a valvecover to check them....most are at .020'.022". ??

I also have a stud girdle on the car.

Any help is appreciated.
Thanks, Jason

 

I ran my Mustang on the street with solid roller set at .022" hot. When you set the lash, you should just loosen the girdle enough to be able to turn the nuts.

If you still use the "jam screws" on the nuts, STOP! Once you've set your lash by turning the nuts, just sinch down the stud girdle. It holds the nuts in position. I took the jam screws out of the equation entirely, and when I checked my lash periodically, it was dead-on. I never actually had to re-lash after that, I only checked for peace of mind.

Hope this helps.

S

 

I called Comp and asked them this when i had mine and they said that it doesnt matter if you set it hot or cold, but that the settings on the cam card are for cold, and if you set it while hot take about .002 off of the numbers on the cam card.

But there again this is Comp tech support who recommended no bigger than a c305 on a n/a 383 for me... so take it with a grain of salt.

 

Thanks for the replies guys

SS00Blue, yeah I definatly loosen the stud girdle bolts before setting the rocker nuts I only loosen the stud girdle bolt on the rockers that I am adjusting though...one at a time. I dont loosen all 4 stud girdle bolts and then set them...in the end tightening them all up at the same time (if that makes any sense).

So you are saying that you totally removed the hex head "lock" nuts that sits inside the main rocker nuts? I can see how the stud girdle would easily hold the rocker nuts tight....just never heard of totally removing those little hex lockers. By doing that, I could see how it would be alot easier (and possibly slightly more accurate) to set lash.

Ken, thanks for your help too. However, I have a Cam Motions grind in my motor. There is no cold recomended setting on the card...just the hot. Also, this is where I am getting the conflicting info....Comp said as a rule of thumb to "take .002" off for setting them while hot." That means the hot setting would be .002" more....I have heard from others that setting the lash while hot would require you to ADD like .006"....that is the conflicting info. Which way is it? I know that things expand in the valvetrain, but I dont know how much more those parts expand over the block/head expansion....thus leading to my confusion.

Keep the info coming
Thanks again
Jason

 

JASON,


If you have a alum head you need to subtract .006 from the lash to set cold. Subtract another .006 if you have alum. block also. The alum head will expand moving the studs and rockers up loosening the lash as the engine gains temp. the same goes with the block. So if cam card calls for .022 use that hot but set .016 for alum head iron block and .010 for all alum engine. Most all steel engines you won't see a real big differance between hot and cold maybe .002. Althought I've have seen a few that were around .008

 

My cam was a CaMotion. It was a great cam! (.679/.681 280/280 @ .050)

See, when you set the lash, the threads on the nut are loaded with the feelers between the rocker tip and the lash cap on the valve tip. Now, if you sinch down the center screw, you pull the nut farther away from the valve tip. You've instantly changed the setting before you retighten the stud girdle. The set-screws are only there for guys that don't run a stud girdle (though, I can't imagine why someone would run individual stud mounted rockers at high RPM without the girdle).

The last time I set the lash, or needed to, I loosened half the girdle, set the lash on two cylinders (I and E), retightened the girdle (with the recommended torque!) and then moved the the next two cylinders. Then repeated on the opposite bank. I used four feelers, one for each rocker, so I didn't lose settings before tightening up the girdle. Once the girdle was tightened, I pulled the gauges and moved on to the next two cylinders. I hope that made sense...

Toss the set-screws, they're just "screwing" up your lash adjustments!

S-

 

I am going to be ordering my Cam Motion Solid Roller Monday or Tuesday.

Just curious, how quickly does Cam Motion get out their custom cams once you order one?

Dave.

 

Thanks again SS and Taylormade

SS....What you are saying makes perfect sense. Let me be a little more detailed for you on how I do mine.....obviously you understand that I am doing it one valve at a time (not necessarily on cylinder at a time). I set the intake valve when the exhaust just starts to open, then do the exhaust valve when the intake just closes. Also, I leave the feeler in the whole time (even after I lock the girdle bolt at that cylinder. That way I know that the lash is (or initially was) set properly with everything locked down.

I loosen the girdle bolt at the cylinder, then loosen the rocker nut, back out the locking hex screw, turn the rocker stud nut to my desired lash, lock it with the locking hex screw, bump the rocker stud nut just a little more, then tighten the stud girdle bolt. Sometimes I have to mess with it some since tightening the stud girdle bolt will either cause the lash to be too loose or too tight. In any case, after everything is tight the last step for me is to pull the feeler out (feeling that the lash is tight enough...as in the slight resistance against the feeler when pulling it out).

That is my complete process.

Dave, not sure to be exact...Mark Montalvo ordered it when they were doing the heads/heads were done. I have heard anything from a week to three weeks. Sorry I could not be of more help to you.

Thanks again for any and all help!
Jason

 

when i ordered my cam from Cam Motion, they said it would take 5 business days to grind it, then however long it takes to get shipped from them to you

 

bad *** cam !

 

247/250 .658/.659 112

Anymore thoughts on my situation?

 

I have Comp Cams 248/254 .618/.622 110lsa

I also have the other post on here about setting the lash, anyone here have any opposing views that the others have posted to my thread??

TIA

Alan

 

Cam Motion 254/259, .664"/.656, 112LSA here

when i put my motor together i just tightened the girdle without using the stop nuts. just seemed to me that the girdle should hole the poly locks in place no problem, and from what ive seen on this post i guess that is true. i have only run the motor for half an hour so far though so i cant comment on how the lash has held up